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  1. #1
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    Tarp Pole Mod - Question

    11' superfly... end pole mod.

    I saw a couple of photos that looked like they had aftermarket pole pockets attached to the corner points, but wondering if anyone has used those ring pin connectors attached to the tie-out loops... or saw any potential problem with trying them.

    51Nns4LBhNL._SL1001_.jpg

    The other thing I was thinking was attaching the pole top arches to the CRL rather than sewing in grosgrain ties to the tarp ridge. Not sure if that's doable without putting undue stress elsewhere? Or, if it's doable, if I should route the poles over or under the CRL.

    I made poles for the panel pulls, which work great, but I haven't got hooking them up down to a science yet (kinda a PITA in the rain) and thinking underside poles on each end would be more supportive... AND nicer to install under cover than the panel pull poles.

    TIA for any input/suggestions.

  2. #2
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Based on your asking about securing the internal poles to the CRL, I assume you're running the CRL under the tarp? If so, simply routing the poles above the CRL between it and the tarp would probably be sufficient, without using any other knots or hardware to connect them. Routing the CRL under the tarp is a little less common around here, compared to hanging the tarp under the CRL or using split ridgeline tieouts. The Superfly does have a cat-cut ridgeline, so it may not pitch quite as tautly with the CRL under it, but I know that's not what you're asking about.

    With the ring pin connector, you'd put those in the ends of the poles, in place of ferrules? I can't see any reason why that wouldn't work.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    The Superfly does have a cat-cut ridgeline...

    With the ring pin connector, you'd put those in the ends of the poles, in place of ferrules?
    Good thing I asked because I "was" planning on running one under the ridgeline and didn't even consider the cat-cut.

    I guess ridge ties "will" be in my future.

    And yes, the pins go inside a female pole end so the pole bend tension would be directly on the tie-out loop. That's where my concern was about the feasibility of the additional stress.

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    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yarome View Post
    And yes, the pins go inside a female pole end so the pole bend tension would be directly on the tie-out loop. That's where my concern was about the feasibility of the additional stress.
    I can't say I've ever tried that, but it seems to me like it would work. I haven't heard of anybody else doing that either, so it could be a good sort of innovation - an easy way of adding a pole mod to a tarp without actually modding the tarp.

    However if you do go with split ridge ties, you may have to add the grosgrain ribbon to the tarp seam as a way of stabilizing the poles from falling over. There is another way I've seen it done, which is the way UGQ rigs the end poles they sell. Attached to the middle of each pole there is a length of shock cord with a mitten hook on the end of it. The mitten hook clips to the tarp's ridgeline split rings. Since their poles angle inward, the shock cord keeps them from falling over toward the center.


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    ...an easy way of adding a pole mod to a tarp without actually modding the tarp.
    That was the plan. I've dumped a bit of change on my setup in a fairly short period of time and was hoping to avoid sending it in for a tarp mod. And really... temps and rain are falling and don't want to go back to my hex while waiting for the superfly to come back from the shop. I'm not at the point where I wanted to attempt a pole pocket mod on my "in use" tarp as a DIY so...

    However if you do go with split ridge ties, you may have to add the grosgrain ribbon to the tarp seam as a way of stabilizing the poles from falling over.
    I'm doing a CRL above now, mainly to have something to rest the panel pull out poles on, but going to a split suspension would be nice. A couple 12'er tieouts beats messing with a 35' hank of RL. Of course... I "just" built that CRL a couple weeks ago... and now get to shelve it and built a different set. I wasn't sure why I bought more nama claws than I needed, but guess my subconscious musta known something I didn't.

    There is another way I've seen it done, which is the way UGQ rigs the end poles they sell.
    Now THAT seems like a winner! Thought my only other option was sewing in center pole ties, but I don't see why the UGQ option wouldn't work. Probably a better option for keeping tarp tension over the poles nice and taut as well. Glad I haven't cut my poles yet. A bit more angle to center than planned required doing it that way.

    Nice!! Appreciate the great input and feel much more confident

  6. #6
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Glad to offer some alternatives. The UGQ method is in keeping with the philosophy of not modding the tarp at all (especially at the ridge seam where you'd have to seal any added ribbon ties).

    The shock cord in the UGQ system isn't under a great deal of tension. The shock cord is elongated maybe 25% or so when you attach the mitten hook. You could probably thread a cord lock onto the shock cord, followed by a mitten hook, then finish it off by running the tail of the shock cord back through the cord lock, if you wanted an "adjustable" version as opposed to using a fixed length of shock cord like UGQ does.

    EDIT: Split ridge ties are also a better match for the Tensa4, in my opinion. That is unless you're using the tarp extensions, in which case I have typically not used any ridgeline at all - just attached the tarp ridgeline D-rings/split rings directly to the tarp extension pole tips.

    SECOND EDIT: On my UGQ poles, I think I recall there being a small bit of something like yellow electrical tape wrapped around the middle of each pole. That would serve as a visual indication of the middle, where the shock cord should be, and also provide a little grippier surface for the shock cord to keep it from sliding away from that midpoint.
    Last edited by cmc4free; 11-04-2019 at 14:25.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    ...if you wanted an "adjustable" version as opposed to using a fixed length of shock cord like UGQ does.

    EDIT: Split ridge ties are also a better match for the Tensa4, in my opinion. That is unless you're using the tarp extensions.

    SECOND EDIT: On my UGQ poles, I think I recall there being a small bit of something like yellow electrical tape wrapped around the middle of each pole.
    Excellent idea! Expanding the tie-outs for the poles to support porch mode... having some adjustability would come in handy as well.

    Tensa4... exactly! I have tarp ext's, but ultimately want the option of rigging without them. I also have 2 solo mod's, but other than a one time setup to test the boomstakes, I haven't tried or even thought about rigging those for a full hang yet. Just trying to get my "go-to" kit squared away and dialed in first before I start tackling too much at once.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yarome View Post
    Expanding the tie-outs for the poles to support porch mode... having some adjustability would come in handy as well.
    I'm not sure I follow that one.

    I agree that porch mode with internal end poles is great. You don't need trekking poles, and the porch mode expands by itself as you loosen the guylines on one side. But since this shock cord concept connects the middle (apex) of the internal end pole to the tarp's ridgeline D-ring/split ring, that distance isn't going to change as you transition from regular to porch mode - at least not by an amount that the shock cord itself won't adapt to.

    I guess my suggestion for possibly making it adjustable with a cord lock is because you're making the poles DIY. UGQ knows their pole lengths relative to tarp width and therefore they probably know exactly how long they want those lengths of shock cord to be. Since it might be a bit of trial and error for you, I thought having them be adjustable length could come in handy. Not something you'd typically adjust in the field or from hang to hang, once you got it dialed in. I could be overlooking something, though.

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