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  1. #1
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    UC Clew Suspension with non-stretch cord?

    I like the clew suspension design I have seen by leiavoia. I'm wondering if I can build the clew with some 1mm dyneema and make a final 12" section beyond the ring with 1/8" shock cord. I'm thinking the clew would not balance well with it ending with a ring, so, I might incorporate a two or three inch dowel to spread the far end of the clew out a bit. I suspect I will have to design the clew lengths to result in a U shaped end.

    Anybody tried a clew with "rigid" cord rather than shock cord?

  2. #2
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    Static cord should work just fine as long as you're incorporating that shock cord at the end. If you use the ring while building the clews, they should balance just fine.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    I think I would have to disagree, I think the flex in individual strands , allows the clew to shape itself ... if you use non stretchy cord, I think you may lose the functionality.

  4. #4

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    There is zero advantage in using static lines.

    The purpose of elastic clews is to provide shape conforming fit. If you take the elastic strands out, that defeats the purpose of this suspension type. You would end up with something with the same physics as a wookie, but with a worse seal.

    Using a ring or caribiner to gather the nettles is fine. I use a keyring for mine.

    You do not need a spreader bar contraption if the end-to-end length of the underquilt when attached is roughly the same as the hammock itself.

    If the hammock and quilt lengths match, you won't have the opportunity to attach an additional elastic tie-out line, so it works better if the clews themselves are elastic.

    If you had all static lines, heaven forbid you accidentally sit in your underquilt! :-( = YOU

  5. #5
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    Thanks all. I really wanted this to work out since I can't find shock cord locally and wanted to get going on this before I miss all this beautiful winter weather...

    I guess I'll just slow down and wait for a delivery. I found flat elastic cord (1/4" wide) which I think would work, but, I think the durability is not as good.

    Tim

  6. #6
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Just a point, DON'T oversize the size of the clew suspension, when you get all those lines running the actually operating diameter gets big real fast. I am using 1/16" and attach a suspension point on each baffle point and that is adding lots of pull to snug up the UQ.


    Brian

  7. #7
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Leviavoia ... not to hijack this thread, but it is related and I hope you continue looking here.

    I have been planning to use a clew suspension on my bridge hammock and have been pondering how long to make it, any thoughts or insights you could provide would be appreciated. The hammock is 80 ", with a 43"/36" (cloth/bar) foot, 53"/43" (cloth/bar) head ... most of your original post was for GE variety, initial thinking was not to change much and just stay with ~26" ....

    Brian

  8. #8

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    all that really matters is that, when attached:

    - clews terminate at same point as hammock (this gives the hammock-in-a-hammock effect).

    - elastic is "engaged" (stretched, but not to the max)

    Generally speaking, we found that total length of quilt should be ~85% the length of the hammock. When attached, the quilt will stretch the extra 15%.

    What you want to avoid is having the quilt too long (elastic not engaged) or way too short (creates a bad fit).

  9. #9
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input Leiavoia, sorry if I jumped your thread Naf

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