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  1. #1
    Crawldaddy's Avatar
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    List of UQ's for Bridge hammocks

    A while back at a Hang I attended, one gentleman had an UQ for his Bridge that he insisted was a better fit than the stock UQ sold by the same Bridge vendor. I remember it was a down UQ but cant remember the name of it, but it was made by one of the HF vendors. Unless I missed it, it would be great to have a list of all who make UQ's specific to Bridge Hammocks. (if you were the guy I talked with, please chime in) Thanks

  2. #2
    Herder of Cats OutandBack's Avatar
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    Any standard rectangle UQ will fit a bridge perfectly. An UQ with a leg shelf would have a gap.




  3. #3
    silentorpheus's Avatar
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    Locolibre also makes a series of UQ with design features tailored to the Ridgerunner.


  4. #4

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    As the fella who knows more about greek plays than I do mentioned- You're probably thinking of Loco Libre- specifically the Ridgereaper- https://www.locolibregear.com/gear.h...=0&sort=normal

    As fer a list of those who make bridge quilts since you didn't mention which bridge you own- you can mostly limit yourself to:

    Jacks-R-Better- makes the BMBH and the quilts to fit it.
    Warbonnet- makes the Ridgerunner and the quilts to fit it.

    I'm not sure of anyone else who makes quilts for the Jacks bridge aside from Jack's.

    Arrowhead makes a synthetic for the RR.
    LocoLibre makes the down quilt yer likely thinking of.

    And that is pretty much that as far as bridge hammocks go if you don't count that REI thingy which works best with a pad anyway.

    There is some other jackhole who makes bridges but guessing it wasn't one of them bridges you were thinking of since nobody officially makes a quilt fer those directly, indirectly or otherwise that fits better or worse than a standard gathered end underquilt from UGQ or Hammock Gear.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Bill View Post
    There is some other jackhole who makes bridges but guessing it wasn't one of them bridges you were thinking of since nobody officially makes a quilt fer those directly, indirectly or otherwise that fits better or worse than a standard gathered end underquilt from UGQ or Hammock Gear.
    I'm on the jackhole bandwagon. Still tweaking a bug net, though.

  6. #6
    Senior Member goalie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Bill View Post

    There is some other jackhole who makes bridges but guessing it wasn't one of them bridges you were thinking of since nobody officially makes a quilt fer those directly, indirectly or otherwise that fits better or worse than a standard gathered end underquilt from UGQ or Hammock Gear.
    The jackhole's bridge works perfectly with "normal" UQs though, so there's that....

    "It turns out that what you have is less important than what you do with it"

  7. #7
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Who is the "Jackhole"? Oh, now that I think for a second, I think I know! LOL!

  8. #8
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    In my limited experience, as long as a quilt is not too long for the hammock, my JRB or WB (torso) quilts always work great with either my JRB or WB bridges. The only potential problems are that the sides of the quilts might gap away a bit up near the top edges of the hammock. But, this area does not require insulation anyway, it is usually not in an area where the TQ will be compressed by body weight. But I have always worried that cold air might be able to drift down from there to make a cold spot somewhere, though I really don't think it does. So I often rig a mod with shock cord to draw the UQ sides in towards the hammock. Probably not needed. The AHE Ridgecreek is a custom fit for the WBRR, as is the WB Lynx. I'm not aware of any custom job for the JRB bridges, bu all of their UQs fit their bridges and the WBs just fine. But theywill be wider than needed, unlike the custom jobs. Then again, the custom jobs are almost not quite wide enough for my elbows when back sleeping. The JRB UQs will not have that problem, rather being wider than needed.

  9. #9

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    There are three quick videos up... one of these days I'll make some better ones.

    Chiming in with a bit of an update...

    For End bar bridges(pretty much every bridge but mine or the Ariel)- you can attach an end bar bridge designed underquilt to the corners of the bridge.
    I would suggest that you add a strong (1/8" or heavier) loop of shock cord to each corner with a cord lock on it unless you know the quilt was made specifically for your bridge. That little extra give ensures you will not face disaster if you are attaching the quilt to a DIY version.
    The Loco Libre Ridgereaper I have came with this system attached already, I am not sure off hand about Warbonnet or AHE's native attachment system.

    For recessed bar bridges: (or standard underquilt on an endbar bridge)
    I/we (my testers and customers) have found that a standard underquilt fits very well provided you treat it like a standard underquilt:
    1-DO NOT attach or attempt to attach the underquilt to the corners of the spreader bars. Not only will that increase the chances of dislodging a spreader bar, but it will not allow the quilt to seal properly and/or move with you and the bridge.

    2-Simply hang the quilt just like you would on a gathered end.
    Start with the ends fully opened up and the primary and secondary suspensions fully open.

    If you have an end bar bridge... again a section of shock cord or continuous loop should be used. The Apex to apex distance of a bridge (where the suspension triangle meets) is LONGER than a typical gathered end hammock. So to prevent over stressing your underquilt's suspension you can add the loops to each end of the bridge to reduce the distance your suspension needs to stretch to attach to either end.

    Once you have the quilt hung parallel to the ridgeline without overstress of the quilt, simply spread the quilt open around the unoccupied bridge hammock.

    Keep the quilt suspension free of the suspension triangle or the spreader bars. DO NOT hook the shock cord over the spreader bars. Leave it free to move just like you would on a gathered end hammock.

    Get in and see how it goes. Reach under you, grab the quilt, pull it up around your butt and give it a shake head to foot to help it lift and seal.
    Fiddle with the primary suspension a bit, then the secondary if needed. Finally snug up the ends a bit... likely fairly loose on the head end, and a bit more snug on the foot end... but unlike a gathered end you're better too loose on the ends than too tight.

    For some of you who like to hang your bridges softer in the center... likely you're done.
    A friend always helps to make adjustments with you inside if possible.

    3- Troubleshooting:
    If you like to hang your bridge more firmly, I strongly suggest using a structural ridgeline. Not only will this help regulate your setup and create a consistent night's sleep, but it will allow you to more easily fit your underquilt.

    The first issue is usually with the overall apex to apex distance mentioned earlier. This will cause the ends to hang a bit lower than you'd like.

    With the underquilt attached to the suspension triangle apex you will likely need to pick it up at either end a bit. For those familiar with "triangle thingy's" from AHE... you've got the basic idea. To achieve a similar lifting of the head and/or foot end, you will see in one of the videos that I simply add a small loop of shock cord to a mitten hook, attach to the ridgeline with a prussic, then clip the primary and secondary suspension through the mitten hook. By sliding the prussic loop closer to the center of the bridge you will change the angle and increase lift. Don't go overboard.

    On my recessed bar bridges I find about 12-14" from the end of the bridge does the job, with some variation required depending on where along the length of the bridge you sleep. On end bar bridge you may need 24" or more.

    Why not attach directly to the prussic loop and skip the apex? You can... but I find that while you sort it out having that extra 'slop' in the system puts less stress on the shock cords in the underquilt and allows more overall movement. So skip that cordage saving step to start and get things sorted out... then cut out redundant pieces if you think it's reasonable.

    The second issue is saggy bottom blues or a gap around your low back. The only real solution for this is what I call a 'Pick me up'. I'm not clear who should get the credit as it seems to be one of those solutions that several of us arrived at independently. I started making them, a few testers did too, and a few others built versions of them as well. I now include one with all my bridges.

    Assuming your underquilt has an attachment point- you simply clip the pick me up to the ridgeline, then clip the tails to the quilt where needed... and pick it up.
    Rather than type you to death (or continue to)... just watch the video.

    If you don't have an attachment point- a small binder clip (the black ones to clip papers) can be used to add a pick up point. Wrap a little first aid tape or similar on any rough edges so you don't damage your quilt shell. Why a binder clip you probably won't wonder? You can clip it OVER the primary suspension channel and due to the shape of the clip it will allow the shock cord to move freely. Be careful not to clip it onto the shock cord itself and make sure the cord moves freely. There are plenty of other options... including sewing in a pick up... but if you don't have access to those options the binder clip is a nice new sew option that doesn't require you to permanently modify your quilt.

    The ding related to a pick me up: it's one more thing in your way, but with a bit of practice I've found it's easy to work with. Doubly so if you pop the cordlock, release the slack, then enter/exit. Once in the bridge- tighten it back up.... give the quilt a lift and a shake and it should seal well.

    Most importantly... it solves the saggy spot problem(s). Some like using two... one about mid back and one nearer your knees. That keeps the center more open.

    Even if you're getting good contact with the quilt, a lightly tensioned pick me up will seal up the side gaps if you find you're getting a draft.


    For the record:
    Unless you are approaching 7' tall... a standard length underquilt is ideal. A standard width is plenty.
    A long can be used but is harder to work with.
    Keep in mind, you are laying 'in line' with the quilt, not diagonally across it... so you can use the full length of the standard quilt a bit more easily on a bridge.
    3/4 quilts work great as well....but are easier to setup with a ridgeline.

    For standard quilts:
    I personally like UGQ's construction and overall design best, but generally suggest the Incubator for my bridges as the legshelf provides a slight advantage in a bridge.

    The only underquilt I do not like is the Enlightened Revolt... sorry Tim but the Karo step just doesn't do it for me in an underquilt.
    I really like the top quilts though and they remain the only brand of down top quilt I use.

    For bridge quilts:
    The ridgereaper is an amazing piece of kit. I use that exclusively on my end bar bridge prototype I've been sleeping on for nearly six months.
    If you want synthetic or something on a budget- AHE is a good choice.

    If you already own a quilt... well that makes it the best then doesn't it, lol. Use what you have, make sure you enjoy the bridge... then trick it out if you want. But do not let lack of a specialized bridge quilt (or attaching the wrong specialized bridge quilt to a different bridge) stop you from trying a bridge.

    Warmer is better with a bridge.
    Unlike a gathered end... A bridge underquilt will not wrap up the sides in the same way, and has a harder time holding heat due to the simple fact heat rises.

    Go HEAVY on the top quilt first to catch your rising heat and drive it back down into your UQ. Sleeping in a bridge is more like sleeping on the ground (from an insulation standpoint). Your top quilt is doing most of the work...

  10. #10
    Member packman9000's Avatar
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    Bill you continue to amaze me with how knowledgeable and helpful you are.

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