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  1. #1
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    Clew less, need pictures

    Any one have pictures of the their "clewed" UQ strung up next to (but not under) their hammock? Shug did something similar in one of his videos on how to hang an underquilt and... it really drove home just how tight a UQ needs to be hung.

    Im asking because Im finding that the estimate 87-85% recommended length ends up tensioning the quilt so that it rises nearly to the hammocks ridge line (higher than with the channel suspension system).

    This amount of tension seems to work, mostly. It pretty nice everywhere except under the bum where there is clearly too much tension. This is causing the down to be over compressed (CBS warning). Loosening up the clew makes the bum area fine but the other parts end up way to loose (and no longer do there magic hugging without being restrictive). Is this what others are finding too?

    At first I thought maybe I messed up the differential cut of the quilt but this is too much tension along the baffle (not across). wonder if the center loops of the clew need to be a little longer than the others but, I have not seen where anyone else seems to need to do this (so the problem must be me)

    Hoping a picture or two ala shug's hang will shed some light on this.

  2. #2

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    Advice on hanging side-channel quilts doesn't apply clew quilts. It's totally different set of physics to work with. It is more like a warbonnet wookie.

    The quilt should hang at mostly the same angle as the hammock itself (like a hammock within a hammock). If it wants to "rise" then you clearly have way too much tension.

    Make sure you don't use 1/8" shockcord on these. That's ultra-overkill that will make it very stiff and tense. Clews need to use 1/16" or even 1/32" cord.

    It would help if you post a picture of what you are working with. Here's some from my collection:

    IMG_3969-s.jpg IMG_3963-s.jpg IMG_3906-s.JPG 3_layer_01.jpg IMG_3901-s.jpg IMG_3902s.jpg costclew_03.jpg finished_uq.jpg hammock_with_uq.jpg IMG_7259.jpg

  3. #3
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    Clew less, need pictures

    [QUOTE=leiavoia;2046617]
    Quoted from leiavoia “Make sure you don't use 1/8" shockcord on these. That's ultra-overkill that will make it very stiff and tense. “

    Thanks Leiavoia, you may have put your finger spot on it. I’m actually using every scrap of shock cord I have to give the clew a try. Had a shank of 1/8 a short shank of 1/16 and various lengths of 3/32. Ordered plenty of 1/16th but tried to use what I had on hand to see what it’s all about.

    If it worked this well with the Frankenstein setup imagine how good it will be when done properly. Your pictures are a great help. I won’t share my current set up ( unless you need some “ don’t do this” pictures). Looking forward to reporting back in the next couple of weeks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Delen Trekker; 02-27-2021 at 16:58. Reason: Need more practice on how to quote someone

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    This clew suspension is on my bridge hammock UQ... I went away from snap connectors and instead now use split rings, which I think work much better and are less work.

    These are 3/4" rings with 3/4" grosgrain, my latest quilts use 1/2" with 1/4" grosgrain, which are lighter and work really well. I use 1/16" shock cord and that is plenty for this application, the multiple strands add up to a lot of pull .... I think anything larger will be too much.


    [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0[/img]

    [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0[/img]


    Brian

  5. #5
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Nice work, all. Question: to save weight could you use 1/16" shock cord clews on one end and very light non-stretch clews (e.g. 100 lb test or less dyneema fishing line) on the other end? Does it matter if all the stretch is at one end of the UQ? I suspect not. The dyneema clews could be adjustable whoopies.
    Last edited by WV; 02-26-2021 at 23:06.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruiser51 View Post
    This clew suspension is on my bridge hammock UQ... I went away from snap connectors and instead now use split rings, which I think work much better and are less work.

    Brian
    After I switched to a bridge, I didn't think I would have any more use for it. But it turns out to work well. Even though I use a pad in the Ridgerunner, this adds that extra warmth needed on cold nights.

    For mine, I just banged in grommets to attach the clews, instead of all the fiddling with grosgrain, Etc. Works quite well

    20210226_215230.jpg

  7. #7
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    VW ... I use 1/16" cord ... you could totally use 1 ended clew system, BUT then you also need to find more "pull" from somewhere. If I use about 12 double strands of 1/16" at ~50% elongation, I get ~6-7 pounds of "pull" .... not quite enough, so i would likely need to move to a bigger size of cord.

    So you need enough lines of your chosen shock cord to give you the "pull" you need. I actually went to the bother of measuring and drawing up graphs of how much pull the shock cord gave at 10 - 100% elongation to get an idea of what was available from the cord. I suspect that it is always going to be a balancing act of weight and performance (as is everything we build).

    I think the most important point that I have found, is that the potential weight saving are in the attachment points, not the cords ... dropping the size of the materials used to attach the suspension has far more weight savings possibilities than the cords themselves IMO.

    The above photos use 3/4" grosgrain and 3/4" split rings ... the newer suspension I just finished uses 1/2" split rings and 1/4" grosgrain loops attached to a 1/2" grosgrain base ... much lighter and likely still overkill for purpose.



    Brian

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruiser51 View Post
    VW ... I use 1/16" cord ... you could totally use 1 ended clew system, BUT then you also need to find more "pull" from somewhere. If I use about 12 double strands of 1/16" at ~50% elongation, I get ~6-7 pounds of "pull" .... not quite enough, so i would likely need to move to a bigger size of cord.

    So you need enough lines of your chosen shock cord to give you the "pull" you need. I actually went to the bother of measuring and drawing up graphs of how much pull the shock cord gave at 10 - 100% elongation to get an idea of what was available from the cord. I suspect that it is always going to be a balancing act of weight and performance (as is everything we build).

    I think the most important point that I have found, is that the potential weight saving are in the attachment points, not the cords ... dropping the size of the materials used to attach the suspension has far more weight savings possibilities than the cords themselves IMO.

    The above photos use 3/4" grosgrain and 3/4" split rings ... the newer suspension I just finished uses 1/2" split rings and 1/4" grosgrain loops attached to a 1/2" grosgrain base ... much lighter and likely still overkill for purpose.



    Brian
    Very interesting Brian, it seems reasonable to me that there is an optimal amount of tension/pull. From leivioa’s comments and pictures though he seems to imply the “right” tension is the amount needed to mimic the arc of the hammock (un weighted I assume). If that’s close to the mark then the tension will change from UQ to UQ based on how heavy the UQ is ( winter vs summer UQ etc).

    Does this mesh with your experience?

    For some reason I can’t see your pictures? Too bad because I’m curios to see how you use the ring

    Thanks
    Ken


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    I am trying to relink those photos, plz tell me if they work now.

    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0


    I adjust my clew suspension based on the length of the spreader bar (I make the rope part the same length, adjust for whatever you do) ... they are made to be 50% (1/2) the length of the suspension ropes... for a 36" setup, I make them using an 18" model. Then in use they will be stretched 50% to 36" and apply the force that I have decided. If you wanted to reduce that you can just add a piece of rope to adjust.



    Brian

  10. #10
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Testing ... also does this one work?

    IMG_1106.jpg


    Brian

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