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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLTurtle View Post
    I run the tarp under the CRL, with prussiks. Everything is run through the mesh sleeve. Just run the free end of line through one end of the sleeve and pull it over. When the tarp is deployed, the sleeve is just scrunched up on one end.
    Do you leave the tarp on the prussiks when it's furled up or do you disconnect the tarp from the CRL completely? Also which snake skins are those SLD?

    Torn between SLD and DG sleeves. Anyone with both able to comment if each would work the same for my setup or if one might be preferable over the other?

  2. #12
    FLTurtle's Avatar
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    Yeah, kind of defeats the purpose if you disconnect the ridgeline. These are the Dutch single piece sleeves.

  3. #13
    Senior Member JollyRoger70's Avatar
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    I have a couple of Hammock Gear mesh snakeskins, one on a HG Journey tarp, and one on a Dutch Asym. I switch off between a couple of different CRLs for the HG tarp (depending on what length I need); the snakeskin fits just fine on the prusik or by the Nama claw (depending on which CRL I use). I think if I ever settled on a single CRL, I’d probably leave it in the snakeskin all the time. The Dutch tarp doesn’t use a CRL, and the lines all fit into the ends of the snakeskin. Both tarps fit well into their stuff sacks with the snakeskins. I have a stuff sack that holds my hammock suspension, tent pegs, ground tarp, and ridgelines.


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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLTurtle View Post
    Yeah, kind of defeats the purpose if you disconnect the ridgeline. These are the Dutch single piece sleeves.
    Just ordered up an SLD one piece snake skin. One detail I may have forgotten to mention is that I've been attaching the prusik to my tarp tie-outs using sticks I find on the ground... I ordered a couple of extra aluminum toggles as backup for my hammock suspension but they won't stay with tension off which is why I asked if you leave it all connected. I guess you're tying your prusiks to your tarp tie-outs then?

  5. #15
    Senior Member Eclectic's Avatar
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    I use Dutch’s mini-biners to attach the tarp’s double rings to the prussiks.

  6. #16
    FLTurtle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninjured View Post
    Just ordered up an SLD one piece snake skin. One detail I may have forgotten to mention is that I've been attaching the prusik to my tarp tie-outs using sticks I find on the ground... I ordered a couple of extra aluminum toggles as backup for my hammock suspension but they won't stay with tension off which is why I asked if you leave it all connected. I guess you're tying your prusiks to your tarp tie-outs then?
    Ahhh, now I understand why I was confused. The Dutch CRL comes with soft shackles that are prussiked to the crl. They can open up so you can attach the tarp, tighten it down, and voila...no more toggles.

    https://dutchwaregear.com/product/1-75-soft-shackles/


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLTurtle View Post
    Ahhh, now I understand why I was confused. The Dutch CRL comes with soft shackles that are prussiked to the crl. They can open up so you can attach the tarp, tighten it down, and voila...no more toggles.

    https://dutchwaregear.com/product/1-75-soft-shackles/
    It's all the great replies like this and the rest of the forum that made me become a donating member.

    I think if it weren't for the soft shackle pic I would have gone with the mini biner like Eclectic posted as I have a ton of them sitting around. I actually just spliced 6 4" continuous loops in 1.75mm lash-it last night for my tarp but this is probably the better way. I take it with this rig you do then keep the prusik on the CRL and soft shackled up to the tarp tie-outs and prob the only thing you need to do is clean up the prusik when deploying? I think now I understand how the the skins can encompass everything while keeping the tarp attached. Before I thought everyone attached using prusik + toggles and I thought the stick would damage the mesh sleeve if it went over it... It also doesn't help that I live in the city and I don't even have a place to deploy my tarp to work these problems out, so it's all in my head!

    I guess I'll be splicing up some soft shackles tonight!

  8. #18
    FLTurtle's Avatar
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    Same for me. So much knowledge and experience on here, it's worth it to keep the forums going.

    I zoomed in one of the pics I posted, showing the soft shackle attached to the tarp and the prussik to the ridge line. Yeah, a stick or toggle would be an issue with snagging the mesh skin. I don't have to clean up the prussik...just need to adjust it to center the tarp. I probably need to re tie them though, since they jam up a lot.
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninjured View Post
    It's all the great replies like this and the rest of the forum that made me become a donating member.

    I think if it weren't for the soft shackle pic I would have gone with the mini biner like Eclectic posted as I have a ton of them sitting around. I actually just spliced 6 4" continuous loops in 1.75mm lash-it last night for my tarp but this is probably the better way. I take it with this rig you do then keep the prusik on the CRL and soft shackled up to the tarp tie-outs and prob the only thing you need to do is clean up the prusik when deploying? I think now I understand how the the skins can encompass everything while keeping the tarp attached. Before I thought everyone attached using prusik + toggles and I thought the stick would damage the mesh sleeve if it went over it... It also doesn't help that I live in the city and I don't even have a place to deploy my tarp to work these problems out, so it's all in my head!

    I guess I'll be splicing up some soft shackles tonight!
    ah yeah, the toggles detail was important indeed. indeed, both me and FLTurtle are suggesting some sort of soft shackle integrated in the prusik/friction hitch of choice. do keep in mind (as you mentioned splicing some soft shackles) that using dyneema as a friction hitch is ..not ideal: it's very slippery, and has very low melting point (so if it slides, it won't take much heat produced by friction to damage it). if it ends up being dyneema on dyneema, it's even worse. this is the main reason i developed that single line shackle i mentioned before, which can be made out of any line, even if not spliceable. there are other solutions as well (if you like the prusik very much despite the jamming, or you'd like to try the VT, you can try the other shackle i described in an older thread, imaginatively called a multi shackle, which can also be made out of any line with just 3 knots). in brief, while you're at it, i strongly recommend to try some "honest" nylon or polyester line for the friction hitches. and if you already spliced some soft shackles, don't worry, those are always useful (i always have a few prototypes in my pockets, "just in case i get an opportunity to test them" -- yeah, i know, i have a problem)

  10. #20
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    Thanks for all the great help and feedback in this thread. I ordered an SLD mesh single snake skin and reinforced stake bag and can't say good enough things about my experience working with Jared. I'm trying to find more things to buy from him just for the sake of it

    I managed to find 2 tie-out points in my apartment that can handle a reasonably stiff tarp CRL for testing. So far this is what I came up with (tarp is Superfly):

    CRL:

    - 25' lashit for CRL with spliced loop on fixed end.
    - Use stick for toggle on fixed end.
    - Working end I use truckers hitch going around loop twice for extra bite.
    - If I need to extend length I'll tie a bowline and larks head extra lashit to working end before truckers hitch.

    Tarp to CRL tie-outs:

    - Soft shackle prussik to CRL that stays on. (This is where my original confusion was about snake skins on CRL+Tarp because I didn't know about soft shackles and always used sticks so couldn't figure out how it would stay on inside snake skin!)
    - I looped both split D-ring and snake skin tieout to shackle on fixed end.
    - Snake skins goes over tarp and CRL.

    Guyline tie-outs:

    - 4" shock cord loops on all tieouts with spliced tarp worms.
    - Zingit 5' in rear and 10' in front tieouts (rear will prob always just go to ground, front longer for porch mode).
    - Figure 8 stopper knot in each of my zingit guylines fed through tarp worms.
    - MSH on MSR Groundhog stakes and tension using tarpworms if needed.
    - For porch mode in front, just MSH zingit near tie-out around paddle or stick then have enough length to go to stake.

    Only thing I'm contemplating now is how to quickly go to/from snake skins to ground. i saw some videos showing the hook worms but I think that will require guylines to be attached to the stakes instead of the tarp. I guess time will tell and will need more experimentation in the field!

    tl;dr: I like my snake skins

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