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  1. #1
    Member schwieb's Avatar
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    Splicing Zing-it

    I got my first spool of Zing-it in the mail today and decided to try doing a continuous loop splice over lunch. I got it done, but it is much tougher than I anticipated. I tapered the line ends and buried it about 2 inches on each side. In the process I really had to fight with it and rubbed off a fair bit of the orange color. I was wondering if this is normal or if there are some further tips I need to be aware of.

  2. #2
    Senior Member OldMan's Avatar
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    It is a bit challenging because of my big fingers and need for reading glasses. But I did not have any real problems with it, although I was using 1.75mm Lash-It.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Albert Skye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schwieb View Post
    I got my first spool of Zing-it in the mail today and decided to try doing a continuous loop splice over lunch. I got it done, but it is much tougher than I anticipated. I tapered the line ends and buried it about 2 inches on each side. In the process I really had to fight with it and rubbed off a fair bit of the orange color. I was wondering if this is normal or if there are some further tips I need to be aware of.
    Polyethylene is slippery and relatively inert; so yes, coatings don't stick as well as one might expect.

  4. #4
    opie's Avatar
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    Schwieb... Zing It is Yellow, other than the red. Did you order Dynaglide?

    In any event, the DG is easier to open up once you break loose the vinyl coating.

    When you go to splice the Zing It, you have to make sure you have just enough line in your splicing tool to hold it. To much and it doesnt want to get into the line.

    Another thing... Zing It is the loosest weave of the line. The Lash It is braided much tighter and the Red Zing It is braided even tighter.
    Custom Bridge Hammocks

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  5. #5
    Senior Member cwayman1's Avatar
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    Hey Schwieb,

    I agree with you, compared to splicing 7/64 Amsteel, my 2.2 Zing-it/Lash-it (whichever it is) is a real pain. I know I don't have the "proper" tools, so maybe that's it, but I can get it done . And after dealing with the 2.2, my amsteel seems HUGE!! Basically, you just gotta deal with it. Good luck!

    cwayman1
    "The sea was angry that day, my friends! Like an old man... trying to send back soup at a deli!"

  6. #6
    How big of a loop do you typically make for a prussik knot that will be used on a continuous ridgeline?

  7. #7
    Senior Member BrianWillan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patermagnus View Post
    How big of a loop do you typically make for a prussik knot that will be used on a continuous ridgeline?
    If I remember correctly, Opie mentioned that he starts off his continuous loop prussics with 10" of line and uses 1.5" buries. So that should net a 7" diameter loop.

    Cheers

    Brian

  8. #8
    Senior Member Highstrung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianWillan View Post
    If I remember correctly, Opie mentioned that he starts off his continuous loop prussics with 10" of line and uses 1.5" buries. So that should net a 7" diameter loop.

    Cheers

    Brian
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  9. #9
    Senior Member pndwind's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Member schwieb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Schwieb... Zing It is Yellow, other than the red. Did you order Dynaglide?
    Opie,
    My mistake. It is technically 2.2 mm Fling-it. In any case, I have even more respect for the work you put into your ridgelines. I guess I just need more practice. It's just much harder than amsteel!

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