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  1. #11
    Hey thanks Mr Cougar. Very helpful as always. I used to splice samson braid all the time during my yachting period. I bet I can make a whoopie thing with a loop on one end.

  2. #12
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Iím an outlier, if not an out and out liar.
    An alpine butterfly loop might hold a knot and be as good to untie as any knot.
    That might be good for a hammock ridgeline, I must agree an eye splice with locked Brummel is better than knots.

    A problem I had with eye splices and locked Brummel is I had trouble getting desired length of fixed ridgeline

    I didnít want to fix the bury by stitching thread the length of bury, so that eye splice would not change size, similar to locked Brummel keeping splice from changing size when not under tension.

    I wanted a certain set length for hammock ridgeline, and was not patient enough to learn how much the ridgeline would shorten due to bury expanding its girth around the splice.
    It can be done. But I was too lazy and impatient.
    I wanted fixed length hammock ridgeline to be close to that 83% of hammock length. Not everyone uses an 83% length.

    So I cheated a bit. I made bury about a foot long instead of shorter length. I had splice sticking out the bury like whoopie sling on both ends of ridgeline.
    Then I measured ridgeline and adjusted to get close to desired length, after milking bury.
    Then it tied ridgeline in an over hand knot in middle of bury. Then I tightened first overhand knot with a hard pull. Then I tapered the splice, cut it to length so that it would disappear into bury after bury is milked.
    That overhand knot performs same function as locked Brummel. The eyesplice canít change size once the overhand knot is tightened.

    Only thing is, it doesnít look beautiful, but it works.

    Then before I tie overhand knot on other end, I measure total length of fixed ridgeline. Check ridgeline length after you tie second overhand knot.
    Make any adjustments to length by untying overhand knot to get real close to desired length of ridgeline. Then tie overhand knot and cut and taper loose end so that it will completely disappear when bury is milked.

    Also now I ďknowĒ that a UCR that is slipping (most likely because of too short bury) can be set in stone on an overnight camping trip.
    Instead of tying an overhand knot in middle of UCR spliceóinstead tie a marlin spike hitch in middle of UCR bury. You can use some strap or rope doubled several times to become the toggle. Then in morning, itís easily undone. And you can resplice UCR to a longer bury at home.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomykay12 View Post
    Hi. Dutchware has a 30.00 special right now on a camo 70d rip nylon/dwr coating 11' hammock, so I picked one up yesterday. Anyone have this fabric? Like, not like? Also, I'd like to make an adjustable ridgeline for it, so I can experiment with slightly different lengths. What is a simple but effective way to do that? Thanks in advance, tk
    Let me know what you do, I just picked up the same hammock and have a whoopie sling ridgeline I'd like to add. This method should work though https://youtu.be/J8efnNIw33Y

    edit: Used the method in the video I posted and it was easy as can be, still need to adjust it tho. Gonna steal Shug's method of using a prussik to hold the tail up onto the ridgeline so it doesn't hand down. Overall the hammock is very comfortable and obviously well made but it DOES make me love my wide width hammock even more lol.
    Last edited by Rhody; 01-28-2023 at 14:28.

  4. #14
    I'm going 2 follow cougarmeat's suggestion and make a whoopie sling ridgeline as a trial, then a fixed one when I know the exact length.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    I had an extra dog bone laying about, so I made a UCR with it. Thinking I may want to put a prusik on the ridgeline to keep the end of the dog bone tight so it doesn't release. Any other folks do this kind of thing for their ridgeline?

    dutch30b.jpgdutch30a.jpg
    Iceman857

    "An optimist is a man who plants two acorns and buys a hammock" - Jean de Lattre de Tassigny (French Army General in WWII)

  6. #16
    Senior Member Twistytee's Avatar
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    I use UCRs for my main suspension larksheaded to my tree huggers. I've played with different bury lengths and settled on 8" bury and 1" loops with brummel lock for both hammock end and tree hugger end. This lets me keep the short length of the UCR at a minimum for tight treat spacing. I've also made them with 10" bury and found the added length was not necessary at my weight (175lbs) for added friction. Knock on wood, but they haven't dropped me yet.

    I also have a UCR ridgeline on one of my Simply Light Design hammocks. It's made out of the 7/64 amsteel with about a 9-10" bury. Jared didn't add a prussik or additional stop knot and I haven't had a problem using it at various lengths.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    Jared didn't add a prussik or additional stop knot and I haven't had a problem using it at various lengths.
    Thanks man! My bury only turned out to be 8" long and although I wasn't worried about it slipping, I was worried about whether it would get "released" if I accidentally pulled end piece.
    Iceman857

    "An optimist is a man who plants two acorns and buys a hammock" - Jean de Lattre de Tassigny (French Army General in WWII)

  8. #18
    Senior Member Twistytee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceman857 View Post
    Thanks man! My bury only turned out to be 8" long and although I wasn't worried about it slipping, I was worried about whether it would get "released" if I accidentally pulled end piece.
    I copied a technique by one of the members here (MikekiM) and used a whipping knot on the top end closest to the tree hugger. I then put a single half hitch at the working end with the excess amsteel. That way it doesn’t get sucked into the bury and the whipping knot keeps the top end from releasing.

  9. #19
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Not my ridgeline but I just did a two pole hang (insufficient trees) and used my UCRs for all 4 lines to the ground stakes.
    Here's a pic of them w/ slipped half-hitches which is my standard for guaranteed "no drop" UCRs .
    My lady's setup is just using ratchet and cam-lock straps from the vehicle kit.

    "Sent w/o me knowing"

  10. #20
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Phantom Grapper - I add one inch of length for every 4 inches of bury when using 7/64th amsteel. So if I want an 8 inch loop with a 4 inch bury, I'd cut a about a 27 inch piece. It breaks down like this ... 2 x 8 inches for each side of the loop, 2 x 4 inches for each end's bury, 2 x 1 inch lost for each end's bury of 4 inches, and 2 x .5 inches for a taper at each end. It's not perfect but it gets me close. So try adding one inch for each 4 inches of bury. Note in practice I would have a longer bury. It is kind of amazing how long the starting piece is for such a short end product.

    I don't know if the whipping knot mention above is the same thing, but one UCR video showed a method of putting twist in a loop that comes out of the bury. The other line goes through that twist and the twist cinches down on the line if it starts to slip under tension. When not under tension, it's a slight additional "grab" to keep things in place.

    LowTech, looking at all those trees in your photo, you must be in Arizona
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 01-31-2023 at 14:30.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

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