# Thread: Safe to fold whoopie in half for short spans?

1. ## Safe to fold whoopie in half for short spans?

Is it safe to fold a whoopie sling in half and use it?
For sake of example: Whoopie fixed eye through a tree strap loop. and back to the adjustable loop, both clipped to a biner.
Both burys are away from the tree strap loop. Tree strap loop is holding on to the nominal amsteel diameter

im using (closed) indoor wall hangers and clipping the dutch hook on to each end of the whoopie, for both sides of the hammock. I figured as long as I have the full bury length I should be fine, and have been so far.

Searched and didn't see an answer

2. I’m not sure. Some might answer this with diagrams, physics, geometry, and strength of amsteel and splices in a doubled position.
I say, calculations are great, but sometimes not all variables are entered into equations——
I say—the proof is in the pudding. If you are using a suspension and it works in a variety of situations, without fail—then you could say it is safe—until and unless there is a catastrophic failure during actual use.

On another different but similar vein—some hammock campers have folded continuous loops in half in order to reduce length of suspension.
And some have folded continuous loops in half to more finely adjust suspensions with daisy chain straps. It works for them!
But whoopie slings and continuous loops are two different things.

It works until it doesn’t!

Stress testing is another way to see how well a suspension works. Stress testing to failure can give measurements of exactly what force will a suspension fail or break.
And yield information of a “safe working load”

Sorry if I’ve not used correct terms to describe this process.

3. I do this a lot. Sometimes it makes adjusting the whoopie a bit more difficult, but that's because I'm connecting to a marlinspike hitch on the tree strap, not a loop. It's still a workable method of shortening your suspension. Just remember to check the marlinspike, or any other connection point, when you're done. Never had a failure with this method.

4. I wouldn't sleep well knowing there were two loops on the knot ("put the loop on the knot, not on the toggle"). I'd imagine that second loop slipping over the one next to it. But I'd be fine if instead of the traditional "stick" toggle, I used a carabiner and put the loops in that. Yes, the carabiner takes a little away from the UL aspect of the whoopie sling. but it adds so much more to my sleep peace of mind.

There is nothing wrong with whoopie slings but after trying them for a bit, I went back to daisy chain and webbing - less fuss for me.

5. Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler
I’m not sure. Some might answer this with diagrams, physics, geometry, and strength of amsteel and splices in a doubled position.
I say, calculations are great, but sometimes not all variables are entered into equations——
I say—the proof is in the pudding. If you are using a suspension and it works in a variety of situations, without fail—then you could say it is safe—until and unless there is a catastrophic failure during actual use.

On another different but similar vein—some hammock campers have folded continuous loops in half in order to reduce length of suspension.
And some have folded continuous loops in half to more finely adjust suspensions with daisy chain straps. It works for them!
But whoopie slings and continuous loops are two different things.

It works until it doesn’t!

Stress testing is another way to see how well a suspension works. Stress testing to failure can give measurements of exactly what force will a suspension fail or break.
And yield information of a “safe working load”

Sorry if I’ve not used correct terms to describe this process.
So on my wall I basically have a closed metal loop, maybe 3/16" or less. If I fold a continuous loop (larks head) I am splitting the load across two spans of the CL. On the whoopie through here, it is folded on a single strand with a single diameter.
Now that I've read your response, its not even just the loop construction, but also what its connecting to and how it affects the bend radius on the rope.

The only thing that is for certain is that if it works now, I can say it is working for now.

Thanks for the response.

6. Originally Posted by WV
I do this a lot. Sometimes it makes adjusting the whoopie a bit more difficult, but that's because I'm connecting to a marlinspike hitch on the tree strap, not a loop. It's still a workable method of shortening your suspension. Just remember to check the marlinspike, or any other connection point, when you're done. Never had a failure with this method.
Glad to hear im not the only one, though curious how you are adjusting it. I am essentially locked out at min with no adjustability.

in a normal use case I would have adjustability with the marlin spike hitch. in this case, I'm limited to the wall anchor and some amsteel.

I just used some zing-it to make a bracelet that is a concept of an adjustable CL. My next step is to make a soft shackle to act as a carabiner (to avoid metal on metal joint) and make an adjustable CL that will give me adjustability while bringing my minimum span close to just the bury length.

7. For indoor hanging I’ve made short continuous loops. I’ll leave the longer trail whoopies in place and just prussick the continuous over the fabric ends of the gathered end style hammock.
Another solution is to run your long whoopies thru the wall anchor eyes and connect them to each other. Kinda makes a ridgeline of sorts. Not always great in an indoor setup. I used a duty rated carabiner. Adjustment is what you make of it. Take some weight off, adjust, milk out the slack.
As long your milking the bury properly it will hold fine.

8. Why not just make a set of dogbones to the length you need?

#### Posting Permissions

• You may not post new threads
• You may not post replies
• You may not post attachments
• You may not edit your posts
•