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  1. #1
    chansta's Avatar
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    rigging 10 by 10 tarp

    Hi all,

    I've run into a snag rigging up my 10 by 10 tarp on a continuous ridgeline with prussiks when configured in a diamond. I like my trees a little closer together, less than 15 feet.. namely because I'm on the shorter side and it's just easier for me to get the suspension where I want it. The problem I run into is with rigging up the tarp at that distance. With the continuous ridgeline, I use a trucker's hitch. I find trucker's hitch takes up some space on my ridgeline and my tarp runs out of real estate.

    I wonder if running the ridgeline off both ends of the tarp would be easier? If so, please share what has worked for you!

  2. #2
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chansta View Post
    Hi all,

    I've run into a snag rigging up my 10 by 10 tarp on a continuous ridgeline with prussiks when configured in a diamond. I like my trees a little closer together, less than 15 feet.. namely because I'm on the shorter side and it's just easier for me to get the suspension where I want it. The problem I run into is with rigging up the tarp at that distance. With the continuous ridgeline, I use a trucker's hitch. I find trucker's hitch takes up some space on my ridgeline and my tarp runs out of real estate.

    I wonder if running the ridgeline off both ends of the tarp would be easier? If so, please share what has worked for you!
    Chansta, here are two options, there might be more.
    While I’m not into hardware, many hammock campers use Dutch’s titanium hardware. I think most of Dutchwaregear.com titanium hardware for tarp lines matches best with Zing-it or Lash-it 1.75

    For knots, or hitches, I use Tensionless Hitch finished with one half hitch and followed by a slipped half hitch. Usually I add several stitches of daisy chain (loop through the loop)

    To tie a tensionless hitch, you will need a longer tarp line than usual. Cord goes to tree, and is immediately pulled tight before touching tree. Then I wrap cord around tree—maintaining tension—two to four times around tree. Better if cord crisscrosses previous wraps
    Finish with one half hitch, followed by a slipped half hitch. Adding daisy chain—loop through loops optional.
    When breaking camp, only have to pull rip cord and daisy chain and slipped half hitch release easily. And last step is to undo half hitch. A single half hitch never jams and is easy to untie.

    Before I tie tensionless hitch, other end of tarp is temporarily secured with a Siberian hitch. Siberian hitch will hold and is quick release.

    One problem encountered with tensionless hitch, is getting tarp line and hammock suspension strap to be exactly both in line with one another, so that my tarp ends can close fairly tight to keep out wind and rain. Getting both lines lined up can be a challenge.

  3. #3
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    I have actually used a 10x10 tarp as a simple a-frame pitch over an 11' hammock many times. If pitched low to the hammock and with rain breaks on the hammock suspension, it can work. Even in actual rain! Lol

    If your square tarp has extra tie out points, you can use ones adjacent to the corners to give an asymmetric pitch with a pseudo-door on each end, and it will have longer coverage than the 10' a-frame pitch (and shorter than the diamond pitch). A diamond pitch gives like a 14' ridge length, which is way more than I've ever needed or wanted for a hammock.

  4. #4
    chansta's Avatar
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    This is good to hear, as I've used the siberian hitch many times as well as what I think you are describing as a modified timber hitch. I think shug has a video showing something similar to this. I believe he calls it the "Philipino package knot."

  5. #5
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    rigging 10 by 10 tarp

    After one end is tied with tensionless hitch, I go to other end, release Siberian hitch and tie a tensionless hitch on other end.
    By pulling hard on cord just before contacting tree and maintaining tension as I circle the tree for two wraps or more, tarp ridgeline is fairly tight.
    Maybe not quite as tight as Dutch’s titanium ridgelines, but almost spang tight!

    With tensionless hitch, you can use all space on tarp ridgeline all way to trees!

    Yep, Shug has some great knots. Some of his knots come from his circus days. Shug worked with circus professionals from all over the world. Some of them brought their knots with them.
    Last edited by Phantom Grappler; 11-22-2023 at 19:09.

  6. #6
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    I think I learned the Siberian hitch as the Evenk hitch, it's a terrific knot. (Can be tied with mittens on!) If that's a different hitch, I'd like to learn it.
    I use to tarp camp on the ground, so I have never not used a continuous ridgeline. I tie an Evenk first, the run the working end to the second anchor/tree, don't worry about tensioning yet. Wrap around tree, over standing line and back to you, and that's functionally a truckers hitch. Pull tight as you can, as you wrap back around tree the other way, and then secure to the now-taut ridge with slipped clove, two half-hitches, whatever you want. Zero real estate on the useable ridgeline. I learned it from Ray Mears at some point or other, but I can't remember if he used an Evenk or something else. You can do a third tensioning wrap going back the first way if you want to or need to.

    I have never used prussiks on a tarp, but I do really like tautline hitches. I just larkshead maybe eight inches of 250lb paracord onto the center grommets (or in your case the corner grommetts) and leave one hanging out of the stuff sack, like a CL out of a bishop bag. That gets tied to the ridgeline immediately, and gives me an anchor to manipulate the tarp and also an adjustable spacer, if I'm off center. They can be tied as close to the grommet as you can work the line, and that may free up two, three, four inches for you, too.
    Last edited by Ratatosk; 11-22-2023 at 19:27.

  7. #7
    chansta's Avatar
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    I was able to set up my gear in the back yard. I don't have any dutchware bling, but I was able to set up both a continuous and separated ridgeline with nite ize figure 9's and some paracord. There was enough coverage over my gathered end suspension to keep me free from rain with a rain break. The continuous ridgeline worked best using prussiks and hardware in an asym set up with plenty of room to spare. .

  8. #8
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Go online, looking at Tensionless Hitch. It might look different there.
    Glad you are getting into some trees to dial in your gear.

  9. #9
    chansta's Avatar
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    I think I may try and get a ridgeline with a microbiner for one end from dutch. That takes care of one end. It would be a lot lighter than my paracord to bring some zing it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    After one end is tied with tensionless hitch, I go to other end, release Siberian hitch and tie a tensionless hitch on other end.
    By pulling hard on cord just before contacting tree and maintaining tension as I circle the tree for two wraps or more, tarp ridgeline is fairly tight.
    Maybe not quite as tight as Dutch’s titanium ridgelines, but almost spang tight!

    With tensionless hitch, you can use all space on tarp ridgeline all way to trees!

    Yep, Shug has some great knots. Some of his knots come from his circus days. Shug worked with circus professionals from all over the world. Some of them brought their knots with them.
    Hi Phantom Grappler,
    Just a question to educate myself. What is the disadvantage of the Siberian Hitch? Just wondering why you don't just leave it? Thanks in advance.

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