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  1. #1
    Member macfly's Avatar
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    Help with TATO DIY Kit Stand

    Hey folks, I've been sifting through about 15 years of stuff in storage, and I ran across my TATO hammock stand kit from back in 2016. This would have been the original Kickstarter version of the hardware kit where you had to provide your own legs and top rail (I used 75" lengths of EMT conduit for the legs, which I still have, but I'm not sure what happened to the top rail I was using). I'd like to get this baby up and running again with my WBRR. I think these are all of the pieces, with the exception of the top rail plug that would have allowed you to attach two shorter sections together to make the entire top rail. So I guess instead of that I'll have to go buy one long piece to use as a top rail. Also, not pictured here are the 6 rubber feet caps which I do have; they are currently attached to the legs which I didn't take a picture of.

    tato01.jpg

    tato02.jpg

    In examining what I've got here, it appears that one of these two yellow loops apparently broke at some point. These loops are for tarp tie-outs, correct? Does anyone know what kind of line this is (is it Zing-It? and what diameter was used?), and secondly, how would I go about fashioning a replacement loop? I can't tell what kind of knot has been applied to the other loop that's intact, since it's covered up by the black shrink-tubing.

  2. #2
    joe_guilbeau's Avatar
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    You should be able to use most any line suitable for suspending a tarp, Zing-It 1.75mm or even suitable shock cord. Send Dutch a email on the subject if you wish to get as close to the original as possible.

  3. #3
    Senior Member sideshowraheem's Avatar
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    I dont have the original Kickstarter version but I do have a Tato stand in my back yard, and I believe that cordage is yellow zing-it. Youre correct, its just for tarp tie off points. Not necessary at all to hang from.

  4. #4
    Member macfly's Avatar
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    Thanks y'all. I'll go ahead and hunt down a small length of Zing-it line and replace that loop. What knot should I tie to close the loop, before covering it with new shrink tubing?

  5. #5
    joe_guilbeau's Avatar
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  6. #6
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    macfly, are you sure you want to tie a knot in Lash-It or Zing-It? I'd think weaving a loop - no knot - would be more in the spirit of that type of cordage. Because you'd need space for the bury, the woven loop would be larger than what you could have with a knot - but I'd think it would be cleaner.

    Oh, wait - you are talking about a shackle knot - usually a button knot or diamond knot is used for that. The button knot terminates with the bulk of the button; the tails are buried inside the loop. With the diamond knot, the two ends form a "tail", a handle, that sticks up from the bulk of the knot.

    There is also a YouTube example - using 7/64th - that uses a much simpler, and larger overhand style knot.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0eZz36PRYI

    Given how small that 1.75mm or 2.2mm cord is, I'd consider that larger knot design.

    Stores like Michael's and Joann's (hobby or sewing supplies) have very small knitting needles that are great for working with tiny cord.

    I made a wire puller from discarded guitar wire (check your local music store) and enhanced it by making a handle with plastic beads that you heat in boiling water. They melt to a gel you can form and shape as a handle around the guitar wire. It cools hard and now you have a custom handle for pulling your wire and cord.

    See: https://tinyurl.com/4zxfa8bs

    In the "Experimenting" video, it looks like the prusik cord is equal to, or larger than the line it slides on. Lore says it's best if the prusik cord is smaller than the cord it's trying to grip. Also, Zing-It is designed to be slippery. At the end of the video, the guy says it didn't hold - probably for the reasons I just mentioned. Possibly more loops on the prusik would work but I'd consider a different route.

    It won't always be a warm sunny day. For an experiment, put your loop in your freezer for a while, and/or soak it with water - now try to work with it with bare or gloved hands.

    Though you can invest in titanium, it isn't necessary. There are so many hardware alternatives.

    Vendors sell metal mitten hooks. I used pliers to remove the gate and wove the hook in an eye at one end of my LashIt/ZingIt ridgeline. You could always hitch it on an end loop for easier replacement. Because there's so much friction on the line around the tree - especially if you come off from the side (not the middle) of the tree - that hook doesn't have to hold very much.

    I've used a Dutchware Wasp at the other end, and also Figure-9's (usually with larger cord - like the 50ft hank of utility cord REI sells) with great success. This summer I'll experiment with a plastic (tactical) toggle at the "cinch-tight" end.

    You can use a variation of a prusik to move your tarp along that line, but NAMA claws work pretty well.

    There are so many places to save more weight than the itty-bitty tarp hardware. Sure - only cordage if an absolute minimum weight had priority overall. But don't forget that wet/frozen/gloved hand experiment and maybe your priorities will change.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  7. #7
    Member macfly's Avatar
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    Thanks for this extremely resourceful reply, cougarmeat. Haven't gotten around to replacing the loop yet, but that's fine as my primary use for the TATO right now is in my apartment, so no tarp needed.

    As luck would have it, I was helping my parents clean out their garage the other day, and my dad ran across a length of conduit that I must have stored over there at some point, probably while I was doing the original cutting of the legs and ridgeline shortly after I bought the TATO stand. He handed it to me and it had that top rail plug piece that I was missing stuck in one end of it.

    I went to work setting up the stand with my WBRR. I found that I need a good 16 feet of top rail (10 ft piece + 6 ft piece) in order to achieve a 13 ft distance between the RidgeRunner's apex points. It certainly holds me, but feels a little sketchy as the top rails do start to sag at the junction at that length when the hammock is loaded (I'm 150 lbs). Will have to cut more conduit and see what I can do at shorter lengths. In any case I'm stoked to have it all set up!

    wbrr.jpg

  8. #8
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Macfly - yeah, that ridge runner span is a challenge at times. A friend prefers it with a 12 ft span between apex points. I was going to say that it's still much wider than the usual GE hammock, but I have to remind myself that the Tarp often requires the distance, not the gathered-end hammock.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

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