# Thread: Zing-It 6 or 8 Inch Continuous Loops

1. ## Zing-It 6 or 8 Inch Continuous Loops

Hey guys can anyone tell me what length of cord I need to make 6 or 8 inch continuous loops out of Zing-It/Lash-It? For some reason I can't seem to find this information anywhere. Using them as Prusiks on my continuous ridgeline. I have several I got from somewhere but I want to make my own with Dutch Hooks on them. Thanks for the help!

2. ItsDave94 - your first post. Welcome to the forum.

So we are on the same page, when you say 8-inch continuous loop, I assume you mean If you pushed the loop together so the "sides" touched like two parallel lines, they would be 8 inches long. Other ideas would be. 8 inches in circumference or 8 inches in diameter.

Think about this ... If you have 8 inches on the two sides, that's 16 inches. Now you have to incorporate the bury of the ends. If you plan on 4 inches of bury, that's 8 inches total for both ends. Now you are up to 24 inches. But you'll want to put a taper in the bury - say half an inch per end. That's one more inch and your total is now 25 inches.

But wait, there's more. ... When you bury the cord, because the weave had to expand to hold the bury there is "shrinkage" in the line. When I use 7/64ths I figure 1 inch of shrinkage for 4 inches of bury. That number is probably less for smaller diameters like the 1.75mm or 2.5mm ZingIt/LashIt. To make the math easy, let's go with 1-inch shrinkage for 4 inches of bury. You can adjust to your experience after you make your first loop. So you have two 4 inch ends to bury so that's 2 more inches and you are up to 27 inches.

I did leave out a little bit. We are using a 4 inch bury as an example, but I also mentioned a half inch taper on the ends. So it's a 4.5 inch bury. But these numbers are close enough to get you started. Again, once you make your first or second loop, you will know how it measures out for you.

So regardless of the length of your loop, you have to accommodate:
1. the loop length
2: the bury length
3. the taper
4. the shrinkage

There are many YouTube videos to guide you.

3. You can go shorter with the “math” on loops for ridgeline use. You do not need full buries.
A few inches is plenty. That leaves an unburied (thin) section in the loop for better grip when wrapped.
Full bury math is for weight bearing loads equaling ropes original strength.

If it is also Zing-it or Lash-it or some other UHMWPE material, a Prusik will not work unless you do 5 or 6 wraps, and even then it must be 'cranked down' pretty tight and is annoying to release. Better IMO to make the little loops from polyester cord, using a couple of simple opposing overhand knots to secure.

You can wrap the Prusik around your CL first and then tie the loose ends through the D ring on your tarp and eliminate hardware.

ironwire_guyline_03_small.jpg

5. Originally Posted by cmoulder

... make the little loops from polyester cord, using a couple of simple opposing overhand knots to secure.

...
Fisherman's knot!

6. I use 2.2 Lash-It for tarp suspension and tarp guylines. Even thought a prusik works better if the cord of prusik loop is skinnier than cord it will slide on—it’s ok to use same diameter cord for both on tarps.
I use a 6 wrap prusik. It holds incredibly tight without sliding. I include in the build a come along loop.
A come along loop (also made with 2.2 Lash-It is a loop large enough to get your hand inside loop.
The come along loop is placed on the guyline.
Picture in your minds eye, a bike tire balanced on a road, tie prusik loop around-through both come along loop and guyline.
The come along loop does not interfere with 6 wrap prusik ferocious grip. But pulling the come along loop along the guyline in desired direction gives amazing results. The come along loop pulls the prusik loop to new location with ease.

The 6 wrap prusik does not have to be retightened at each new position on guyline. Rarely does 6 wrap prusik need to be loosened before sliding.
The come along loop does all the work.
Come along loop can be made into a loop by joining ends with a simple overhand knot. Same with prusik loop, it can be spliced or it can be made into a loop with a simple overhand knot.

7. Splicing has a lot of helpful stuff "out there" and "in here", here is a forum link to a formula, if you want instruction videos, I think TacBlades are among the best I have seen

https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...s-Loop-Formula

Brian

8. Lately for friction hitches (like the prussic) that only get pulled in one direction, like a tarp to ridgeline connection, I've been using a klemheist which I find much easier to make and very easy to move even after having been "locked" in place for an extended time. I'm using them w/ and w/o pull loops and see no real difference in grip between the two.

9. Originally Posted by LowTech
Lately for friction hitches (like the prussic) that only get pulled in one direction, like a tarp to ridgeline connection, I've been using a klemheist which I find much easier to make and very easy to move even after having been "locked" in place for an extended time. I'm using them w/ and w/o pull loops and see no real difference in grip between the two.
I might have to give klemheist a try. It might be better than prusik for tarp guylines. Might be less fiddly…less likely to stick and jam. Thanks LowTech

10. indeed, there's hardly any point to bother with the prusik. almost anything is better. klemheist i haven't plaid with much, it is indeed probably better, my favourite so far is to use a blake's hitch combined with my uni-shackle design (which makes for a compact solution, as it is single strand, and has the connector integrated, so you can easily detach from the tarp, move to another tieout if you want to switch from a-frame to diamond, etc). the blake is vastly superior to the prusik in every way, especially if you just tie it on the ridgeline and leave it there (you never have to undo it), which is what i do