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  1. #11
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    Hmmmm. Use the biner attached to the 9 to click into the biner on the hammock webbing around the tree, and the use the 9 to attach the tarp? No wrapping around the tree for the tarp line, and still not a lot of interaction with the weight in the hammock affecting the tarp? May try this at the hangout....

    (I can't seem to get this edit stuff figured out. If I have 3 edits, I'll fix it)

    After thinking about it a few minutes more, I wouldn't be able to put the tarp up first this way and still have the webbing attached to the hammock.
    Last edited by Shadowmoss; 08-25-2007 at 10:59.
    Bad spellers of the world Untie!

  2. #12
    yeah, that's what i thought too, there were o-rings, d-rings, cc buckles, those plastic rope cleats, and now 9's. more like "adjustable suspension thread" rather than ring buckles only.



    Quote Originally Posted by slowhike View Post
    i think i could do that, but maybe it would be better to direct people reading the ring buckle thread over to this thread w/ a link.
    that way we could keep the different adjustment systems somewhat separated, even though we've started talking about using the fig 9 as a hammock suspension.
    what do you & the others think?
    of course that thread has become as much about the cc buckle, etc as the ring buckles???<g>
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 08-25-2007 at 11:47.

  3. #13
    ok, here's some pics and more info,

    tried the small 9's. i gave them the bounce test, they did not fail, which is suprising, although as you can see from the pic, they did bend quite a bit, what i think is interesting is that rather than bend open, they bent closed, so much so that i had to pry them open with pliers to remove the rope. i then bent them back to the deformed position for the picture.

    these things are TINY, which makes me think the big ones are plenty strong.

    here's a possible setup with each end of the hammock consisting of a 6' tree strap and 8' of line. (14' total length @ each end)

    12' of 1" owf polyester tree straps=74g
    16' of 3mm yale vectrus 12=29g
    large regular fig. 9=31g x 2=62g

    total=165g/5.9 oz.

    the different wrap holds alot more securely than the one they show on their website, with their wrap, it's the teeth that hold the rope, which can't be good. i didn't try their wrap at all, just assumed it would shred my rope. after i filed the teeth all the way off the nine, i tied their wrap, and it slipped with just a pull from my arm (10-20#), whereas the new wrap still holds nicely with no slipping.

    i attached the nine to one end of the tree strap with a double sheet bend, and the nine to the other end of the short rope with a clove hitch.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #14
    hey turk, i cut off quite a bit of unnecessary metal. a set of 2 can be about an oz lighter.

    introducing the fig. 9 especial
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 08-26-2007 at 11:54.

  5. #15
    Senior Member turk's Avatar
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    you are my new hero.

    Way to take one for the team buddy. Anyone crazy enough to
    play lab rat and be the first to hang from the mini figure 9's is
    top notch in my books. Nice pics.

    I am still going to order the carabiner type large figure 9's as I can
    see some multi-use potential. thanks for showing us all how its
    done. I will also try the regular large though I weigh a bit more,
    I don't think I am worried.

  6. #16
    Peter_pan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    ok, here's some pics and more info,

    tried the small 9's. i gave them the bounce test, they did not fail, which is suprising, although as you can see from the pic, they did bend quite a bit, what i think is interesting is that rather than bend open, they bent closed, so much so that i had to pry them open with pliers to remove the rope. i then bent them back to the deformed position for the picture.

    these things are TINY, which makes me think the big ones are plenty strong.

    here's a possible setup with each end of the hammock consisting of a 6' tree strap and 8' of line. (14' total length @ each end)

    12' of 1" owf polyester tree straps=74g
    16' of 3mm yale vectrus 12=29g
    large regular fig. 9=31g x 2=62g

    total=165g/5.9 oz.

    the different wrap holds alot more securely than the one they show on their website, with their wrap, it's the teeth that hold the rope, which can't be good. i didn't try their wrap at all, just assumed it would shred my rope. after i filed the teeth all the way off the nine, i tied their wrap, and it slipped with just a pull from my arm (10-20#), whereas the new wrap still holds nicely with no slipping.

    i attached the nine to one end of the tree strap with a double sheet bend, and the nine to the other end of the short rope with a clove hitch.
    Warbonnetguy,

    Your wrap in the pictures is different from the manufactures wrap..... do you see some extra value in your wrap approach ? ..... is it possible that your version accounts for any or all of the figure 9 distrotion?

    Pan
    Ounces to Grams.

    www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413

  7. #17
    Senior Member Redtail's Avatar
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    I'm confused. Doesn't the fact that you filed the teeth off and are tying a knot instead of the adjustable wrap negate the entire point of using a Figure 9? Couldn't you do the same thing with a simple chain link, ring, or biner?

  8. #18
    redtail,
    look at the pics above, the new wrap is still a wrap, not a knot, the pics show all the steps. step 1, 2, and the finished wrap after i let go of step 2. in fact, it takes no longer to do than the suggested wrap. instead of the teeth biting the rope, the last part of the wrap bites its own slack. the more weight applied to the hammock, the harder it bights on itself.

    it could not be done with a biner, try it and see. i filed the teeth off, because they
    damage the rope and are no longer necessary with the new wrap. this wrap is just as adjustable if not more so (rope can slide during adjustments if the teeth are gone)

    Quote Originally Posted by Redtail View Post
    I'm confused. Doesn't the fact that you filed the teeth off and are tying a knot instead of the adjustable wrap negate the entire point of using a Figure 9? Couldn't you do the same thing with a simple chain link, ring, or biner?
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 08-26-2007 at 11:44.

  9. #19
    pan,
    yeah, mine is diff. i didn't even try theirs, i just assumed it would shred my rope if the wrap slipped even a bit, which i think there is a good chance of slippage with that wrap. it just doesn't look like it has much holding power, but as i have partially filed the teeth off mine, the suggested wrap no longer works, which shows that it is just really the teeth that make that wrap work,and since i can't, it will have to be up to someone else to try and see if it works with the teeth and the old wrap.

    my wrap bights onto its own slack, the heavier the load, the harder it bights the slack, i'm sure there is some point at which it will slip, but it held moderate bouncing from little ole me (160).

    couldn't say about the deformation, thats an interesting thought. i did notice that the load is comming off the non-tooth side of the device in both wraps, so i thought forces on the device would be similar, but who knows. someone will just have to fold up some old air mats and ccf pads and try it.

    did you see the fig nine especial? the top tie in point is aligned closer to the stem than if tied through the origional loop. since its closer to the stem, there is less leverage action on that joint, kinda like grabbing the base of a branch when you climb a tree as opposed to grabbing farther out the branch, so i think tieing it there is actually stronger, but looking at the mini, it seems it's the tooth side that would fail, not the rest of the device, although, the mini didn't really fail, it just bent.

    now that i think about it, if the regular wrap did not slip, the toothed arm would likely bend 90 deg. different (front to back depending on direction of wrap), not in towards the stem. this is probably why it didn't break, because it hit the stem and kinda stopped.

    somebody try it and see.



    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_pan View Post
    Warbonnetguy,

    Your wrap in the pictures is different from the manufactures wrap..... do you see some extra value in your wrap approach ? ..... is it possible that your version accounts for any or all of the figure 9 distrotion?

    Pan

  10. #20
    Senior Member Redtail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    redtail,
    look at the pics above, the new wrap is still a wrap, not a knot, the pics show all the steps. step 1, 2, and the finished wrap after i let go of step 2. in fact, it takes no longer to do than the suggested wrap. instead of the teeth biting the rope, the last part of the wrap bites its own slack. the more weight applied to the hammock, the harder it bights on itself.

    it could not be done with a biner, try it and see. i filed the teeth off, because they
    damage the rope and are no longer necessary with the new wrap. this wrap is just as adjustable if not more so (rope can slide during adjustments if the teeth are gone)
    Thanks Warbonnet. I just meant the whole concept in general, I didn't mean apply your same wrap to a round connector. Just maybe an adjustable hitch instead that you'd lock after adjusting. Wouldn't something like a Munter hitch on a biner bite onto itself in the same fashion? I need to go try some instead of thinking out loud. But I see how your's is simpler and specific in utilizing the W shape.

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