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  1. #21
    Senior Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    If you simply put a pleat on the outer layer to compensate for the differential baffle then you should have a flat quilt that will not compress when tight to the hammock. Now to get the bathtub shape I put pleats on both top and bottom with the inside pleat being very small like 3/8th" and the outside would probably be 1 3/8ths I never pleated the sides yet but I wanna try soon for the complete bathtub shape. In both examples try to line up the baffles on the top and bottom so it works out evenly. Doing all these pleats a pain but worth it in the end.
    So, starting with a rectangular piece of material the baffles all get narrower towards the ends?

  2. #22
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    So, starting with a rectangular piece of material the baffles all get narrower towards the ends?
    On the second example, that is correct. ....Or having a channel and drawstring has some of the same effect and is it is adjustable.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    On the second example, that is correct. ....Or having a channel and drawstring has some of the same effect and is it is adjustable.
    Ok. Does this sound right then? 6 inch baffles at the middle become 4 5/8" at the ends. The two pieces of the shell are the same length, so the long edges match up. Then the pleats take in the additional material on the outside shell so that they are the same width at the end?

    I think my brain got twisted looking at this picture of Dalton's quilt.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...hp?i=9356&c=13

    The baffles looked like they were constant width, when I first saw the pic. Trick of perspective I guess... Now things make more sense...

  4. #24
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    Ok. Does this sound right then? 6 inch baffles at the middle become 4 5/8" at the ends. The two pieces of the shell are the same length, so the long edges match up. Then the pleats take in the additional material on the outside shell so that they are the same width at the end?

    I think my brain got twisted looking at this picture of Dalton's quilt.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...hp?i=9356&c=13

    The baffles looked like they were constant width, when I first saw the pic. Trick of perspective I guess... Now things make more sense...
    There are some things left out of that example, but it sounds about right. With the amount you pleat it, will the top and bottom be the same width in the ends, if so you are good to go.

    Dalton's example uses very long pleats. I make mine barely go past the hem. I'm not saying one is better as I really don't know and think it doesn't matter much. The longer pleats would make it thicker in the middle and that may be advantageous to fight CBS.
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  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    Ok. Does this sound right then? 6 inch baffles at the middle become 4 5/8" at the ends. The two pieces of the shell are the same length, so the long edges match up. Then the pleats take in the additional material on the outside shell so that they are the same width at the end?

    I think my brain got twisted looking at this picture of Dalton's quilt.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...hp?i=9356&c=13

    The baffles looked like they were constant width, when I first saw the pic. Trick of perspective I guess... Now things make more sense...
    You pretty much hit the nail on the head I think. That is a Crowsnest that I talked Dalton though. he did a great job on it I must say! Each chamber does in fact have a long pleat at each end. If it has not been said, do not forget to add a little to the outside of the edge chambers to allow them to stay uncompressed.

    The tapering of the chambers just gets the end of the quilt a little closer to the desired shape. I like to leave it a little wider so the shock cord in the end channel can conform to any moving around the user might do...
    Last edited by stormcrow; 10-07-2010 at 11:46.
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  6. #26
    Senior Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    There are some things left out of that example, but it sounds about right. With the amount you pleat it, will the top and bottom be the same width in the ends, if so you are good to go.

    Dalton's example uses very long pleats. I make mine barely go past the hem. I'm not saying one is better as I really don't know and think it doesn't matter much. The longer pleats would make it thicker in the middle and that may be advantageous to fight CBS.
    Ah, Ok. So your pleats mostly just to take care of the extra fabric on the outer shell, rather than shaping the UQ?

    Maybe asymmetrical pleats would be a good compromise. Long pleats under the legs, then short pleats like yours under the head end, to keep more down under the back and shoulders.

  7. #27
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    Ah, Ok. So your pleats mostly just to take care of the extra fabric on the outer shell, rather than shaping the UQ?

    Maybe asymmetrical pleats would be a good compromise. Long pleats under the legs, then short pleats like yours under the head end, to keep more down under the back and shoulders.
    Sounds like you have a good plan. You are making it yours.
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  8. #28
    Senior Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    Sounds like you have a good plan. You are making it yours.
    Its looking like an interesting project. Now that I've discovered that my GF's thread injector actually works, and convinced myself that I'm handy enough to pull these things off, I've got all sorts of projects in mind for the winter!

  9. #29
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Village View Post
    Sorry to dig up an old thread but the topic is relevant to my question.

    Dutch and Dalton, when sewing closed the ends of the baffles, how do you reconcile the different widths between the inner and outer layers? For example a 7-baffle design with 2in baffle heights would produce an excess of 11 inches. Can you increase the starting widths of the outer pleats to compensate and still maintain a bathtub shape?
    I simply fold a pleat in the edge of the outer fabric as I feed it into the thread injector. So, if the inside baffle spacing is 5 inches and the outside spacing is 6 inches, I simply fold that extra inch on the outside into a pleat, as I sew the edge seam.

    In this example, a pleat with a finished width of 1/2 inch will take up the extra 1 inch of material.

    I helps to fold the pleat toward you as you feed it in, that way the presser foot lays ithe material down flat as it pulls it in.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Lonely Raven's Avatar
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    I am so struggling with understanding this. Maybe I just need to practice on some cheap material and see if I can figure it out. I'm a very visual learner, so maybe because I've not seen the process, I'm just not taking it in.

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