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  1. #1
    Member shevy77's Avatar
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    Differential UQ Dimensions

    After recently completing my tarp, I am turning my attention to an UQ project. I have three yards of 60" wide material and 12 oz. of down. I asked previously and everyone suggested to go ahead and use all of the down and that is what I am planning. This will be a winter/cooler weather UQ.

    I want to make the UQ 45" x 52". The question is regarding the amount of fabric needed for the differential (larger) piece of fabric.

    My fabric is actually at least 109" long. I have planned for 3 inches of seam allowance to create channels on the sides. This means my nominally sized piece of fabric will be 45" plus 6" for seams to make 51". This leaves me with 58" to create the differentially cut piece. After the seam allowance, I have about 52" for the width of this piece. The baffles will probably be 3 or 3.5 inches depending on my final dimensions.

    Would the 7 inches be about right for making this differential UQ? I am sure I could come up with a few more inches if I use a little less on the seams. I am being generous for the amount of material to use in the seam.

    Also, I would like to thank all of the people on this forum, including the cottage guys, for being so forthcoming with information for the DIY crowd. If I didn't already have all of the needed materials, I would likely just purchase a quilt from one of these cottage industries.

    Thanks,

    Shevy77
    Last edited by shevy77; 05-04-2010 at 12:20. Reason: Adding info.

  2. #2
    Dutch's Avatar
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    As a rule of thumb I use 1 inch more on the outer layer for every baffle. So for every 6 inches ont eh inside I use 7 inches so that is add 1 inch for every baffle. Then the end baffles need sides that are equal to the baffle height. So taht right there would use 6 inches for a quilt that is 3" high. I'm afraid you need more material. 2 tone quilts are nice though.
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  3. #3
    Member shevy77's Avatar
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    Dutch,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately, I think that you are right.

    I could make the quilt a little smaller, but that is not the route I want to take.

    So, I have 3 yards of black momentum.

    Now, to decide what color I want to go with for my quilt. My tarp is black and my hammock is olive. Momentum comes in 'Grey Green' and 'Coyote' and several other bright colors.
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  4. #4
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shevy77 View Post
    Dutch,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Unfortunately, I think that you are right.

    I could make the quilt a little smaller, but that is not the route I want to take.

    So, I have 3 yards of black momentum.

    Now, to decide what color I want to go with for my quilt. My tarp is black and my hammock is olive. Momentum comes in 'Grey Green' and 'Coyote' and several other bright colors.
    I have used both those colors and I will tell you that they grey has nothing to do with green. I still like the grey but I don't know why they say green. The brown is a nice brown. I'm a big fan of momentum because I like the feel.
    Peace Dutch
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    As a rule of thumb I use 1 inch more on the outer layer for every baffle. So for every 6 inches ont eh inside I use 7 inches so that is add 1 inch for every baffle. Then the end baffles need sides that are equal to the baffle height. So taht right there would use 6 inches for a quilt that is 3" high. I'm afraid you need more material. 2 tone quilts are nice though.
    Sorry to dig up an old thread but the topic is relevant to my question.

    Dutch and Dalton, when sewing closed the ends of the baffles, how do you reconcile the different widths between the inner and outer layers? For example a 7-baffle design with 2in baffle heights would produce an excess of 11 inches. Can you increase the starting widths of the outer pleats to compensate and still maintain a bathtub shape?

  6. #6
    Senior Member FreeTheWeasel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Village View Post
    Sorry to dig up an old thread but the topic is relevant to my question.

    Dutch and Dalton, when sewing closed the ends of the baffles, how do you reconcile the different widths between the inner and outer layers? For example a 7-baffle design with 2in baffle heights would produce an excess of 11 inches. Can you increase the starting widths of the outer pleats to compensate and still maintain a bathtub shape?
    Excelent timing. I am sewing the inner shell currently and contemplating this very question. I'll play with this tonight and report back. It seems as though making too large a pleat on the outer shell might defeat the whole point of the differential cut.

    FreeTheWeasel

  7. #7
    Senior Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FreeTheWeasel View Post
    Excelent timing. I am sewing the inner shell currently and contemplating this very question. I'll play with this tonight and report back. It seems as though making too large a pleat on the outer shell might defeat the whole point of the differential cut.

    FreeTheWeasel
    I'm wondering this myself... Also, how did you lay out your pleats?

  8. #8
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Village View Post
    Sorry to dig up an old thread but the topic is relevant to my question.

    Dutch and Dalton, when sewing closed the ends of the baffles, how do you reconcile the different widths between the inner and outer layers? For example a 7-baffle design with 2in baffle heights would produce an excess of 11 inches. Can you increase the starting widths of the outer pleats to compensate and still maintain a bathtub shape?
    I simply fold a pleat in the edge of the outer fabric as I feed it into the thread injector. So, if the inside baffle spacing is 5 inches and the outside spacing is 6 inches, I simply fold that extra inch on the outside into a pleat, as I sew the edge seam.

    In this example, a pleat with a finished width of 1/2 inch will take up the extra 1 inch of material.

    I helps to fold the pleat toward you as you feed it in, that way the presser foot lays ithe material down flat as it pulls it in.

  9. #9
    Member Dalton's Avatar
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    i made my underquilt with black ripstop from thruhiker for the inner shell and gray green momentum, i posted a thread on it, just so you could get a better idea of what color it is, you cant really get a good idea of it from the little picture.
    in some of the pictures it looks lighter than it actually is, the light picks it up an makes it look like a light gray. but im really happy with it, im sure whatever color you choose, you will be happy with
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  10. #10
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Looks great Dalton. Is that pleats that run all the way down the center of each baffle. That really looks warm.
    Peace Dutch
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