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  1. #11
    New Member abrightwell's Avatar
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    I'm about 260-265#, slowly bringing that down but for now it is what it is. I currently use an ENO Single or at times a Double, primarily because the rating is 400#. I have been tossing around the idea of building my own hammock sometime soon. I am also a bit of a gram weenie, I am curious which material would be the best to accomplish both of my goals. 1) Support me and 2) not add more weight (preference towards reduction) to my pack than I am already carrying. How can I determine the strength of a given material?

  2. #12
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabejskyp View Post
    So the ripstop that Joann stocks is 1.9?

    Thanks
    Generally, yes. Some report that they've found Polyeurothane (SP?) coated ripstop, so if the stuff you find has a rubbery layer on it, it's probably not good for a hammock. If it feels like slippery fabric, you're good to go.

    I'd get 4 yards, trim a foot (2 at the most) and have at it... You can always use the remaining material to make a stuff sack or two, or even a ridge-line pocket for storing stuff...

    Practicing on stuff sacks is a good way to get used to the sewing machine, and get it properly adjusted...

    best of luck!
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  3. #13
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    I bought my fabric at Joann's. When I asked what weight it was, everyone there just looked at me. So I bought enough for a double layer. I'm 6'2" and about 260. It's held fine.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grakker View Post
    I bought my fabric at Joann's. When I asked what weight it was, everyone there just looked at me. So I bought enough for a double layer. I'm 6'2" and about 260. It's held fine.
    For the vast majority of the fabric using world the weight of the fabric is an absolutely meaningless statistic. I bring this up to give the clerks in fabric stores the credit they are due. Dressmakers and quilters and clothing makers in general couldn't care less about the weight of the fabric by the yard. I suspect even the commercial outdoor clothing manufacturer build the piece then weigh it and that's how they get the weight. The best thing you can do is to get to know the fabrics you use so you can make your own assessment or buy from the vendors who specialize in the backpacking DIY crowd. But don't expect Joannes or any other fabric shop to care about what the fabric weighs by the yard.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  5. #15
    Senior Member PKT's Avatar
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    Why is it that every one uses Ripstop Nylon? I only have two purchased hammocks being
    the BlackBird and the Travler but neither looks like Ripstop.
    What material is Brandon using?
    Might it be the Supplex/Taslan that TinaLouise mentioned? If so why isn't this material mentioned more?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PKT View Post
    Why is it that every one uses Ripstop Nylon? I only have two purchased hammocks being
    the BlackBird and the Travler but neither looks like Ripstop.
    What material is Brandon using?
    Might it be the Supplex/Taslan that TinaLouise mentioned? If so why isn't this material mentioned more?
    Ripstop is reasonably easy to get. However, I have used nylon or polyester taffeta and actually prefer that to the ripstop. It may be a tad heavier but I have never done the comparison so I don't know for sure. Taffeta is a weave pattern. To the eye it looks like "regular" fabric. In other words, nothing unique about it. If differs from Oxford cloth in the fineness of the weave, (Taffeta being the finer of the two..) Go into a big box fabric store and ask for taffeta. Once you have seen it you will be able to spot it quite easily in the bargin bins and such.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  7. #17
    Senior Member PKT's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info Rev, I had thought Taffeta was a version of ripstop.
    Do you know of other nylons or polyesters to look for?

  8. #18
    sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PKT View Post
    Why is it that every one uses Ripstop Nylon? I only have two purchased hammocks being
    the BlackBird and the Travler but neither looks like Ripstop.
    What material is Brandon using?
    Might it be the Supplex/Taslan that TinaLouise mentioned? If so why isn't this material mentioned more?
    Unless your Warbonnet Hammocks are a custom build with a custom fabric, they should be ripstop. Hold it up to a light so you see through it, you should see a grid pattern.

    Ripstop is most often used because it is designed to stop rips (thus, rip-stop). It does a fair job of it, though you can certainly continue a rip. Fabrics w/o the ripstop grids will continue a rip easier.
    DIY Gear Supply - Your source for DIY outdoor gear.

  9. #19
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclittlefield View Post
    Ripstop is most often used because it is designed to stop rips (thus, rip-stop). It does a fair job of it, though you can certainly continue a rip. Fabrics w/o the ripstop grids will continue a rip easier.
    Tell me about it! My first hammock was made from WW polyester. Got a rip and dropped me to the ground. I'll stick with RS from now on.

  10. #20
    Senior Member PKT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclittlefield View Post
    Unless your Warbonnet Hammocks are a custom build with a custom fabric, they should be ripstop. Hold it up to a light so you see through it, you should see a grid pattern.

    Ripstop is most often used because it is designed to stop rips (thus, rip-stop). It does a fair job of it, though you can certainly continue a rip. Fabrics w/o the ripstop grids will continue a rip easier.
    I had it up this weekend making a topcover that's why this came to mind
    I didn't ask for a custom material but I don't see the grid like other ripstops
    I did get a leftie.

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