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  1. #1
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    whoopie sling question.

    ok, i see how it works, i see how to make it. i think its a really neat idea. but couldn't you just use a taught line knot to do the same thing. also, whats the purpose of the back feeding of the end of the rope.

    thanks in advance
    matt

  2. #2
    opie's Avatar
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    The backsplice is to prevent the Amsteel from unbraiding itself.

    I have no experience with a taught line hitch. I would think if it was easier and more reliable, it would be more widely used.
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  3. #3
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    well its kind of like a prussik but with the end of the rope. it tightens as you put weight against it.

  4. #4
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    Hey Matt, On a body weight application a taught line hitch will probably not have enough friction to grab and hold. Especially in the teck ropes like amsteel that are very strong but light and are very slippery.

    The back splice in the end is to fatten up the rope so that it will not be able to slide back though the bury and undo the sling. Just a simple way to create a stopper.
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  5. #5
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    Knots derate the rope (weaken it) Testing has proven that the splicing technique maintains the most original strength of rope.
    Try to follow the tutorial in the beginning of the whoopie thread and make one. Or buy one from Paul or Opie. actually buy two..

    The backfeed makes a larger mass at the end of the rope to prevent the whoopie from sliding back inside of itself. You can do a stopper knot, if you chose, I do a stopper loop on the end of mine..just a preference.
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  6. #6
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    thanks for all the info. what tool do you use to thread the rope through. and where could i get it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member thekalimist's Avatar
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    i used a coat hanger bent in half, in fact i use this one here:

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcr03 View Post
    thanks for all the info. what tool do you use to thread the rope through. and where could i get it.
    Coat hanger works well.. Doubled over 18 gauge wire. Some folks use a "dritz loop turner." (goggle will turn that one up)

    I use stainless steel leader wire in .035. It holds up to the rigors of repeated splicing and is very inexpensive.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Truehart's Avatar
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    I just made one last night. My first attempt was with a piece of bailing wire. But instead of doubling it over and feeding it through the "out" first and then threading the free end through, I basically made a needle by bending a 1/2" of the wire back on itself to just thread it through the "in" of the the bury. The problem was that no matter how careful I was, the free end of the bent loop kept catching strands on the inside of the bury and thus making it really hard to feed and eventually impossible. So at that point I realized what had happened and decided to use something different for a tool. I tried about 3-4 different methods that I had seen used in videos, but to no avail. Well, those methods would have worked had I not screwed it up the first time. The initial tearing up the inside of the bury made it pretty near impossible to try and get the rope to go through itself because it would either catch again or just the added friction from the stretched and/or torn fibers would hang on to it. I ended up just cutting a new piece of Amsteel and starting over to see if that theory was correct and it was. I used a "children's needle" from Walmart and everything went fine.

    So, after spending hours trying to get my first method to work, not understanding what I had done wrong, cursing up a storm and about ready to start throwing things (I also had a frustrating day at work previous, this was just the straw) I started over and had one made in 15-20 min (if that). Basically moral of the story, don't use ANYTHING that has ANY cut edges. Doesn't matter how well you file/sand it, it will still catch, pull, and tear up your Amsteel and pretty much make that part useless.

    Edit: I should say don't use any method that would cause the cut edge to pass through the inside of the braid.
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