how thick is your pad, doesn't it buckle and crease at the hips?
[QUOTE=GREEN THERAPY;30924]
I have no issues with CCF pads being to stiff or "flat" to lay on, in fact I prefer the feeling of using them to just using an under quilt.
how thick is your pad, doesn't it buckle and crease at the hips?
[QUOTE=GREEN THERAPY;30924]
I have no issues with CCF pads being to stiff or "flat" to lay on, in fact I prefer the feeling of using them to just using an under quilt.
this will depend on how efficient the fit is. a perfectly snug fit will eliminate any air gaps inside.
a uq works alot different than a bag. a sleeping bag or a peapod can be sealed off so heat is trapped inside, an uq is only one layer, so it must fit snugly to the bottom of the hammock and eliminate any air gaps. air gaps can transfer heat out from under your body and they can escape back through the hammock fabric unless there is sleeping bag pressed up against it, this will happen regardless of how tight the quilt is at its edges, because the hammock fabric (which makes up the other portion of the air gap) doesn't hold any heat.
the most common air gaps will be under your lower legs, about mid thigh down usually, they can be anywhere though. make a practice one out of single layer nylon with no insulation and have someone lay in the hammock, then notice where it doesn't fit snugly to the hammock bottom, and adjust your pattern. once you get a good shape, then you can worry about the rest of the quilt.
there are also several ways insulation can be compressed by the suspension depending on the type used. and this will drop the insulation value as well.
regardless of syn or down, you should use a differentially cut shell, (outter shell larger than inner one) this will keep the outer shell which is curved over a larger radius from compressing the insulation.
stitching synthetic insulation to the perimeter of the uq can have a similar effect if not sized just right (a little bigger than the inner shell).
all said, i doubt any quilt will ever be as eficient as a sleeping bag, so some extra thickness would probably be needed to get the same temp rating.
Last edited by warbonnetguy; 10-07-2007 at 14:26.
[QUOTE=warbonnetguy;30967]how thick is your pad, doesn't it buckle and crease at the hips?
The pad that I use is the blue color from Wal Mart (3/8 th X 20" W and cut to 50" L ) I don't have it under my lower legs as the fleece in the double layer hammock extends lower to cover there. I slit the pad to make it eaqsier to fold for my pack, so not sure if that contributes to the no buckling or creasing but it lays flat. Another possible reason is that I made the hammock and I don't like them with a lot of droop so when tensioned against the ridge line it dosen't seem to make the pad bunch up at all. I also have a 27" X 60" pad of the same thickness that I can put between layers but have been down to 32F with it and was comfy without soooo.. winter isn't over yet.
What I lack in knowledge I MORE than make up for with opinions.
Green Therapy
all said, i doubt any quilt will ever be as eficient as a sleeping bag, so some extra thickness would probably be needed to get the same temp rating.[/QUOTE]
I agree, that is why I bought a Rock Wren bag last year. Draft elimination isn't as big a deal as just keeping sufficient insulation around your head/neck area. One of those Polarguard balaclavas from BL would be the best bet with a quilt, I think.
the slits are not consistant as I was experimenting to see if certain lenghts would weaken the pad and cause it to rip. So far all have held with consistant use in both the pack and the hammock. I have used it both ways but prefer to have it in the hammock under my sleeping bag. Not sure if the slits play a part in it or not, but have no condensation issues.
What I lack in knowledge I MORE than make up for with opinions.
Green Therapy
Quick Question:
When using and SPE with a therma rest and a CCF pad, which pad goes on top of the other?
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