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  1. #201
    Senior Member Strapped-4-Cache's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaseKampChef View Post
    Maybe I can get enough paper from neighbours and such...
    Wait... You live in the Atlanta area and you need to go to neighbors to get additional sheets of newspaper? One Sunday Journal/Constitution should probably cover an entire driveway.

    Not sure why, but we don't even have a subscription and we have two local papers delivered to us. I guess the advertisers pay for them, 'cause we sure don't.

  2. #202
    Senior Member GaHammockGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strapped-4-Cache View Post
    Wait... You live in the Atlanta area and you need to go to neighbors to get additional sheets of newspaper? One Sunday Journal/Constitution should probably cover an entire driveway.

    Not sure why, but we don't even have a subscription and we have two local papers delivered to us. I guess the advertisers pay for them, 'cause we sure don't.


    I'm not even going to PAY for the ATL JC.... .... but my neighbor gets it EVERY.... SINGLE...DAY..... so I will save my $4.50.


    Yeah I am that cheap....

  3. #203
    Senior Member MondayHopscotch's Avatar
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    So I'm getting ready to try making some sil myself, I have everything besides the ripstop -- which brings me to my question (that is slightly off topic.... deal with it).

    How easy is it to identify ripstop when it has a pattern (ex. Digital Camo print). i stopped by wally world today to check the bargain bin and they had 5 bolts of some camo print nylon, but I couldn't decisively tell if it was ripstop. I would assume it would be fairly obvious what with the checkerboard lines running through it, but I couldnt tell through the print.

  4. #204
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    Formerly 'TroutEhCuss'
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    Ripstop doesn't really fray on the edges. The only way I've been able to tell is by having guaranteed ripstop and fake ripstop. The difference is very obvious once you have something to compare. You can purchase samples from cottage fabric supplies to know the diff. in person.

  5. #205
    Senior Member MondayHopscotch's Avatar
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    Well I guess then my question becomes, if it's not ripstop, and its just regular old nylon -- What is the strength difference in applications such as stuffsacks, or in the case of making my own silnylon, a tarp?

  6. #206
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    You should be able to flip the pattern over and see the weave better. Most of the camo I've seen at 5 different walmarts was not even nylon.

    Even in camo, though, the ripstop pattern is pretty noticeable.

    From a durability standpoint, when you drag a piece of ripstop over a rock, and wear a hole in it, the hole won't (generally) grow, where non-ripstop will tear and begin it's downward spiral...

    That said, I have 2 stuff sacks (one for my whisperlite stove) that I made over 25 years ago from heavy cotton fabric. (****, I must be getting old!) and they're still going strong. It all depends on the abuse the material is going to take, and the load it's going to be under.

    A non-ripstop stuff sack under no load, even with a hole in it would last forever, but a hammock made from non-ripstop would spontaneously fail with a small tear under your butt... So for a tarp, non-ripstop would be a bad idea, unless it was used in the best of conditions (aka no wind, not stretched too tight, etc.) It could last for years as a tarp until the first big wind comes along that exploits a small hole or imperfection...

    From a strength perspective, the strength should be similar, it just won't be as durable...
    Last edited by JohnSawyer; 03-02-2010 at 20:54.

  7. #207
    New Member moytoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MondayHopscotch View Post
    So I'm getting ready to try making some sil myself, I have everything besides the ripstop -- which brings me to my question (that is slightly off topic.... deal with it).

    How easy is it to identify ripstop when it has a pattern (ex. Digital Camo print). i stopped by wally world today to check the bargain bin and they had 5 bolts of some camo print nylon, but I couldn't decisively tell if it was ripstop. I would assume it would be fairly obvious what with the checkerboard lines running through it, but I couldnt tell through the print.
    You can go into a Jo Ann Fabric shop, I buy rip/stop there all the time in Fl. I'm showing an address in Denver at, 2530 S Colorado Blvd. It will be labled ripstop nylon. It's not sil tho.

  8. #208
    Senior Member MondayHopscotch's Avatar
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    Thanks for the good info. I'm still new to ripstop. Only worked with cotton and canvas.

    Quote Originally Posted by moytoy View Post
    You can go into a Jo Ann Fabric shop, I buy rip/stop there all the time in Fl. I'm showing an address in Denver at, 2530 S Colorado Blvd. It will be labled ripstop nylon. It's not sil tho.
    I know of two places I can get ripstop if i want to pay full price for it

    The joanne that I live by has ripstop, i just dont know what weight it is.

    The stuff my hammock is currently made of I bought at a different fabric store and it was labeled as 1.9oz. My guess is that the joanne stuff is the same, but i've never seen 1.1oz so i'm not sure how much of a visual difference there is.

    I also wanted to go with wally ripstop because I want to be ok with messing up my first attempt (or two, haha) being as I wouldn't have invested very much money in it.

  9. #209
    Knotty's Avatar
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    Sealed the ridgeline seam with Silnet last week and last night I hung the tarp in heavy rain and wind to better test how well the DIY sil worked.

    Good news is the tarp stayed totally dry on the underside.

    Bad news is I still got some drips from the ridgeline seam which was surprising because I sealed the topside and used quite a bit.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=15318
    Knotty
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  10. #210
    Member Skookum's Avatar
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    That is good news. I redo mine tomorrow.

    What type of seam did you use for the ridgeline? Did you run grossgrain down the ridgeline seam afterward??

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