Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 56
  1. #11
    Senior Member Nest's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    627
    Images
    5
    umm... huh?

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Rapt View Post


    If you intend to hang lower down you'll have to do a pure bending analysis also. Perhaps a choice for the subject of another thread.

    But this should get you started...

    i was thinking about being able to adjust the guyline attachment point as i adjust the hammock attachment height. that way both points are always the same height, and i can avoid this force while still allowing for adjustable height.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Belleville, ON
    Posts
    664
    Images
    26
    Yes, that would solve the issues with bending and keep the pole (column) in pure compression.

    FWIW bending analysis is easy (at least as easy as buckling). But it is another thing and would result in needing a stiffer (and therefore heavier) pole.

  4. #14
    The more I think about this the more I appreciate the Bat hammock offering lay-flat comfort and a single attachment point and no side load.

  5. #15
    i've been looking at alum tubing, some places are pretty pricey, i did find one interesting place though, they make tube for ham radio antennas, which are designed so that each size fits perfectly into the next size up.their prices seem good too. they have 2 kinds of alum though. 6061 extruded, and 6063 drawn. doesn't say which is stronger, or what the difference between extruded and drawn is.

    if i go with the drawn, the wall thickness is only .058", which is a bit smaller than 1/16". i'm wondering if this might be too thin. the outside diameter would be 2" or 2 1/8". if i switch to the extruded, the wall thickness would jump all the way up to 1/8", which seems a bit large, and i would still have to use a .058" wall piece for an insert unless i get the insert from somewhere else.

    here is the link:http://www.texastowers.com/aluminum.htm
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 10-13-2007 at 19:58.

  6. #16
    this place http://www.globaltecheng.com/alutubi...ID=15039389521
    has .083" wall thickness, and is cheap, but tubes don't fit together. rapt sent me a link where you could make your own carbon fiber composite tubes, but i'm hesitant to try this. here's the link:http://www.aerosleeves.com/

  7. #17
    i think i'm going with the .058 wall thickness and the 2.125 tube dia. how long should i make the insert pieces?

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Belleville, ON
    Posts
    664
    Images
    26
    I think your tubing choice should be fine. (about .4 lbs per foot)

    This partly depends on how much clearance there is (or how tightly the insert fits). Tighter means better alignment and stress distribution, but harder to put together and take apart... And more prone to dirt gumming things up.

    Looser is easier, but also weaker. ]

    The fixed side can be shorter since it'll be tight and permanent. The taking apart side is where the most length should be. I'd say use a similar length/diameter ratio as tent poles do for their inserts... (probably you can get away with a bit less since you're not bending them in arches.)

    Or you can start long and keep cutting it down and then when it fails you know the minimum length.... So then you make them longer than that... Of course that means making at least one extra pole.
    Last edited by Rapt; 10-15-2007 at 07:50.

  9. #19
    well, i want to make it light within reason, but i'm not taking it backpacking or anything, so an extra few ounces doesn't really matter here. the way my easton poles are, the ratio of insert diameter to length sticking out, the part of the insert sticking out would be 11". this seems excessive. i was thinking around 4"-6"(sticking out), do you think that would be pushing it? i ordered enough insert tube to make (4) 18" inserts, so i will have enough to make them longer.

    do they sell a home anodizing kit somewhere too? i was thinking just paint, but having them anodized would look good. how does one anodize by the way?


    Quote Originally Posted by Rapt View Post
    I'd say use a similar length/diameter ratio as tent poles do for their inserts... (probably you can get away with a bit less since you're not bending them in arches.)

    Or you can start long and keep cutting it down and then when it fails you know the minimum length.... So then you make them longer than that... Of course that means making at least one extra pole.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Hammock
    Warbonnet ON!
    Tarp
    SuperFly or MacCat
    Insulation
    Yetis & Mambas
    Suspension
    Webbing and rings
    Posts
    13,919
    Images
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    how does one anodize by the way?
    Current increases the oxidation of the metal, creating a barrier to corrosion. Or something like that.

    Basically, set it in a liquid solvent and run a small current thru for a while. I did this in High School (eons ago) and it was pretty basic. Google it and I bet you find detailed instructions.

Similar Threads

  1. AHE forces work stoppage...
    By Ratdog in forum Arrowhead Equipment (Home of Kick Ass Quilts)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-16-2013, 08:09
  2. Forces on a splice
    By sunkmail in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-09-2013, 09:05
  3. Marlin Spiking stakes for guylines
    By Habitat in forum Weather Protection
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 03-18-2013, 18:48
  4. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-17-2012, 16:27
  5. Hammock body guylines
    By GrizzlyAdams in forum General Hammock Talk
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-11-2007, 21:41

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •