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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    tree hugger extension?

    i've switched my HH over to whoopies and marlin spikes but my tree huggers are the 42" HH that came with the hammock.

    now that i'm using the marlin spike, i'm limited to how big of a tree i can use and still have enough of a tail to be able to put the marlin spike in.

    i don't have time to get longer straps before our next hang so i'm looking for ways to add an extension to the hugger in case i have to use a bigger tree.

    i still have some 1/8" amsteel left so i was thinking of making two 12" loops.

    any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Dutch's Avatar
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    You can go through the one loop of you hugger and still MSH the other side. I is ok if the amsteel is on the front of the tree.
    Peace Dutch
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  3. #3
    GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Put one end of the strap through the loop of the other. Then put a toggle through the loop of the end hanging out. No need for a marlinspike hitch, at least not while there is a hammock attached.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  4. #4
    New Member JumpingJack's Avatar
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    put one end through the loop ...

    When you do that, you're doubling the load on the tree hugger. Normally each loop takes half the load. When you make a noose around the tree, one loop takes the entire load.

  5. #5
    BLUEFIN 774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JumpingJack View Post
    When you do that, you're doubling the load on the tree hugger. Normally each loop takes half the load. When you make a noose around the tree, one loop takes the entire load.
    I've been doing that all summer since I switched over to Whoopie Slings. That does not mean it is right , but it works for me so far.

    Is this a good way ?
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  6. #6
    SlowBro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JumpingJack View Post
    When you do that, you're doubling the load on the tree hugger. Normally each loop takes half the load. When you make a noose around the tree, one loop takes the entire load.
    I would guess that the friction around the tree takes a lot of the load off the loop. I have been hanging with one end of the tree hugger slipped through the loop since I started hangiing without any problem. I would suggest that many hangers do and I haven't read any reports on failures at the loop. So I don't think I would worry too much about it. But , hey, HYOH.
    -Mark
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  7. #7
    pgibson's Avatar
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    To follow up on what BlueFin and SlowBro said, that is the way I have been hanging all along and the same basic method that all most all webbing systems that use a carabiner or a dutch clip to connect the webbing back on it self function. If the loops are sewn properly they should be able to handle the load when connected in that manor rather than equalized.
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  8. #8
    New Member JumpingJack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowBro View Post
    I would guess that the friction around the tree takes a lot of the load off the loop.
    -Mark
    It does take the load off the loop that's not attached to the hammock, but the loop that is attached to the hammock is the one that gets double the load.

    If there have been any failures using this technique, I haven't heard of them. This likely means that anyone who doesn't use the noose around the tree could get away with huggers that are half the weight.

  9. #9
    SlowBro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JumpingJack View Post
    It does take the load off the loop that's not attached to the hammock, but the loop that is attached to the hammock is the one that gets double the load.

    If there have been any failures using this technique, I haven't heard of them. This likely means that anyone who doesn't use the noose around the tree could get away with huggers that are half the weight.
    Sorry, just getting back to this. Actually, weight and strength are not equivalent. It all depends on what material you are working with. What counts the most is the type and strength of the stitching that forms the loop and the ability of the material to hold the stitches. I sew my own loops on my tree straps and use a simple box stitch with an "X". There are a variety of methods that work.

    Bottom line is that the webbing going to the hammock gets the full weight of the hammock. If you use a loop for the hammock, as opposed to a marlin spike hitch or other knot, the the sewing of that loop needs to hold the full weight of the load. That load increase the closer the suspension gets to being parallel with the ground so a 30 degree pitch is considered ideal since it gives the least amount of force on the suspension.
    -Mark
    -SlowBro
    "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are."-Theodore Roosevelt

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by JumpingJack View Post
    It does take the load off the loop that's not attached to the hammock, but the loop that is attached to the hammock is the one that gets double the load.

    If there have been any failures using this technique, I haven't heard of them. This likely means that anyone who doesn't use the noose around the tree could get away with huggers that are half the weight.
    Huggers that are half the weight but longer. Maybe not twice as long but still longer to do that technique. I think that's why no one promotes or sells that as an option. A strap wide enough to protect the tree is going to hold up a certain amount of weight. Going once around the tree and attaching to itself gets around the biggest trees and gives maximum span with the shortest strap.

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