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  1. #21
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by creativeKayt View Post
    Heh heh heh. I'll try both and record my findings. I'm working on home-made bias tape for the edges of my DIY hammock and me thinks this will be a perfect test for that project. Cool! I'll do one side in Fray Check and the other in clear nail polish. Most excellent! Thanks again for the great input!
    Go to the dollar store and get the cheapest nastiest stuff you can find. It's the lacquer you care about, not the nail enhancements or conditioners.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  2. #22
    Senior Member creativeKayt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    Go to the dollar store and get the cheapest nastiest stuff you can find. It's the lacquer you care about, not the nail enhancements or conditioners.
    Heh heh. I got some! Two bottles of something adequately gross and cheap. Now off to cut some bias tape! Fantastic! I'll post the videos when I get the Hammock project complete. Thanks again.

  3. #23
    Senior Member creativeKayt's Avatar
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    UPDATE: Okay... I used both Fray Check and the Clear Nail Polish for my home-made bias tape. IMHO -- There are pros and cons for both. The nail polish dried a lot faster than the fray check, but took a lot longer to apply via the little brush (and I got a little high, even though I had both windows open). That said, the nail polish application was more even and I used a lot less polish than Fray Check.

    Fray Check went on really fast, but, as I said, took much longer to dry. But, I didn't get high, either.

    So... on first glance, I'd say it is a draw. We'll see how they both hold up to cutting and then general field use. I'm excited! This was a fun experiment. Thanks again to everyone for the great input!

  4. #24
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    Is there a video somewhere on how to do the "hot" cutting?

    If I am using a scizzors to cut the ripstop (1.9) and then immediately hemming the edge (to make a hammock per the "sticky" directions in this forum), do I need to do something with the edge to prevent fraying, or will the hem do the trick?

    First DIY project and would be particularly pleased if I didn't fall out of it after a while because of fraying under the hem, if that's an issue. Thanks for the help.

  5. #25
    Senior Member JerryW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckeye Dave View Post
    do I need to do something with the edge to prevent fraying, or will the hem do the trick?
    Dave, the hem is all you need to keep it from fraying. Sometimes I'll run the edge of the material over a candle to seal it before sewing, but it's just to keep it from fraying while I sew it.


    Jerry
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  6. #26
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryW View Post
    Dave, the hem is all you need to keep it from fraying. Sometimes I'll run the edge of the material over a candle to seal it before sewing, but it's just to keep it from fraying while I sew it. Jerry
    The only time an edge _needs_ to be sealed in one way or another is if the raw edge is going to show in the project. Hemming, french seams, lfat felled seams folded seams... anything that encases the raw edge will effectively keep the edge from fraying _provided_ sufficient seam allowance is provided. If the seam allowance is not sufficient (1/2-5/8", 12-15 mm is typical industry standard) the edge _may_ fray enough to allow the fabric to pull through the stitching. But this would be very rare.

    Extreme paranoia says always seal it. Common practice says only when it shows.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
    Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn

    We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series

    Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies

    Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint

  7. #27
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    THanks for your insights. That's what my wife (my seamstress) thought, but she's never made something that had to support my weight either.

    Still interested in any instructions or vidoes on the "hot knife" process if anyone is aware of any or can provide a quick tutorial here (it sounds cool -- and dangerous). Thanks again.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Big Jim Mac's Avatar
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    Clear nail polish also makes excellent chigger remedy. Just don't use red nail polish like I did when I was a kid...

  9. #29
    the exception to that is encasinig it inside a quilt, that won't stop it from fraying, it has to be fully closed off inside a seam, or hot knifed or serged.



    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    The only time an edge _needs_ to be sealed in one way or another is if the raw edge is going to show in the project. Hemming, french seams, lfat felled seams folded seams... anything that encases the raw edge will effectively keep the edge from fraying _provided_ sufficient seam allowance is provided. If the seam allowance is not sufficient (1/2-5/8", 12-15 mm is typical industry standard) the edge _may_ fray enough to allow the fabric to pull through the stitching. But this would be very rare.

    Extreme paranoia says always seal it. Common practice says only when it shows.

  10. #30
    Senior Member cosmicmiami's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    the exception to that is encasinig it inside a quilt, that won't stop it from fraying, it has to be fully closed off inside a seam, or hot knifed or serged.
    What dynamic comes into play inside the quilt that would promote fraying? Just curious. All the fluffing around from the fill would do it?

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