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  1. #1
    Senior Member Grinder's Avatar
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    let's talk "down-proof"

    I swear this onion has more layers then infinity.

    After working my way through the fact that I NEED down to be warm and have it pack up small enough, I now catch the hint that only special nylons are suitable for down.

    What are the details of this need. I have lots of ripstop in inventory and had planned on picking the most pleasing colors to make my underquilt. Now, it appears that some, if not all of it may not be worthy.

    If I use ripstop 1.1 oz (the sclittlefield material of a year or so back) is it "down proof"?

    This visual identification of material is the hardest part of this DIY business for me to get my head around.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    grinder

  2. #2
    Senior Member Cold Butt Stephen's Avatar
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    I have to admit I don't know much about downproofing either, but I do know that while the 1.1 ripstop that he is currently selling on backwoods daydreamer says that it is downproof (I just bought some), other 1.1 ripstops on the site don't say they are. He has had really great service so far, so if you PM him he might be able to tell you for sure.

    Here's an article with some interesting, but conflicting information that might help.
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/a...p/t-21816.html
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  3. #3
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure it's downproof, he would tell you if it weren't. I've had some loose weave ripstop once that was not downproof, but it was a fairly unusual material. I think you'll be ok.


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Lonely Raven's Avatar
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    Ripstop is made "downproof" by a process called calendering. Basically it's rolled through a heated roller that sort of cooks one side of the material to help close up the weave.

    If your ripstop looks satin finish on one side and simi-gloss on the other, it's probably calendered.

  5. #5
    Senior Member nacra533's Avatar
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    I just use regular ole 1.1 ripstop with a DWR coating. It definitely is not calendared. If it will hold water without pressure, it SHOULD be down proof. I haven't had any problems with down coming out. If you have any "feathers", they might poke through.

    Stretch it across your sink and put some water in it. If it pools up, it should hold the down.

  6. #6
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonely Raven View Post
    Ripstop is made "downproof" by a process called calendering. Basically it's rolled through a heated roller that sort of cooks one side of the material to help close up the weave.

    If your ripstop looks satin finish on one side and simi-gloss on the other, it's probably calendered.
    Well said Raven, and actually, calendaring is most often done to both sides - and DWR is more often one side - both (in most cases) will downproof your fabric.

    The Olive Green and Gray 1.1oz ripstop we currently carry is downproof. The Woodland Camo uncoated is not.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member MarshLaw303's Avatar
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    is there really a big difference with 800+ fills as they are 90%+ clusters? Or is the issue as i suspect with the lower fills that are much more feathers and spines?

    I can't see the 800+ getting out of too many fabrics, heck noseeum would give it a run sometimes i think.

    -Tim

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dblcorona's Avatar
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    is there really a big difference with 800+ fills as they are 90%+ clusters? Or is the issue as i suspect with the lower fills that are much more feathers and spines?

    I can't see the 800+ getting out of too many fabrics, heck noseeum would give it a run sometimes i think.
    I was looking at this too. I think the issue becomes, not how down proof, but how wind proof it is. If the weave hasn't been tightened up enough, the wind flow through the fabric would play heck with the insulating power we come to expect.
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  9. #9
    Dutch's Avatar
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    I have made quilts from walmart nylon that wasn't calendered or treated and the down did not escape. I worry more about water and wind getting in than down getting out. I think the quality of down we often use helps prevent it getting out. I do see a tiny bit of down escape all materials i use and other manufacturers.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dblcorona View Post
    I was looking at this too. I think the issue becomes, not how down proof, but how wind proof it is. If the weave hasn't been tightened up enough, the wind flow through the fabric would play heck with the insulating power we come to expect.
    This is a major factor that is often missed. Thanks for bringing it up.
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