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  1. #101
    Senior Member bloomgorge's Avatar
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    the down UQ is darted but i did not do any darting on the sock. here's a photo of it cut just prior to sewing the curved ends. i suppose the radius cuts in the sock could be deamed a dart but i think it's more removing un-needed material.
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  2. #102
    Senior Member creativeKayt's Avatar
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    Ooooo... daz niiiccceee.
    Well done!

  3. #103
    *Bump* ^^

    Has anyone got any rough measurements for a hammock-with-a-person-in-it? I can't get in mine atm and I need to figure out what size to make my Just Jeff's Hammock Sock (ver 2)!

  4. #104
    Senior Member bloomgorge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beansprout View Post
    *Bump* ^^

    Has anyone got any rough measurements for a hammock-with-a-person-in-it? I can't get in mine atm and I need to figure out what size to make my Just Jeff's Hammock Sock (ver 2)!
    The dimensions I used were based on me in it @ 6"3' 240lb
    http://smartoutdoors.webs.com/ elephant trunks, tarp keys and crosses

  5. #105
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2011
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    I made a sock, but in three parts: bottom, bugnet, tarp. The bottom and tarp are made of silnylon. Having three parts lets me use them in different configurations, according to the weather. There is way too much info and too many pics to post here. Check out my favorites for pics and search for "Modular Hammcok Sock" to find my posts. I also have two videos on Youtube, one that shows the fatures and one that shows the setup, just search for mrmike65.

  6. #106
    Member
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    Jul 2011
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    Northern NJ
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    Traveler SL 1.1 w/ diy tulle bugnet
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    First thing i ever made on my sewing machine (never used one before) was a tulle hammock sock. Honestly very easy and I did very little measurement and modified as such after completion. Spent about $15 total and took about an hour.

  7. #107
    New Member
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    Jul 2010
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    I know this is an old but ongoing thread; Could use some advice on my sock design. I was out the other night, it was in the 20's, I was warm, but looked up to see frozen condensation. I kept a "portal" open for venting and haven't had a problem in the past. Got pissed and took the top off of my sock, I have an Army gore-tex bivy sack, thought I would keep the bottom to protect my down and do without a top. Any design input? I already have material to make another, this was my prototype.
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  8. #108
    Senior Member wisenber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptthor View Post
    I know this is an old but ongoing thread; Could use some advice on my sock design. I was out the other night, it was in the 20's, I was warm, but looked up to see frozen condensation. I kept a "portal" open for venting and haven't had a problem in the past. Got pissed and took the top off of my sock, I have an Army gore-tex bivy sack, thought I would keep the bottom to protect my down and do without a top. Any design input? I already have material to make another, this was my prototype.
    A sock or any other method of staying warm has its tradeoffs. The more air and moisture that a sock can keep out, the more air and moisture it can keep in. The more you attempt to vent and reduce condensation, the more heat you will allow to escape. Most likely, if you remove the top of the sock, the frost will move from the sock to the top of your insulation. Frozen condensation becomes progressively worse the lower the temps fall. So long as the frost is on the top of your sock, it can most likely be "dusted off" when you exit your sock. When it gets much below 20, I manage my condensation by wearing vapor barrier clothing. That still leaves exhaled moisture, but it will reduce the area that is releasing the moisture.

  9. #109
    MacEntyre's Avatar
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    Wisenber speaks wise words... but I disagree about using low vapor permeable fabrics in low temps.

    For what it's worth, we stopped making hammock socks insulated with IX long ago. Now we only use highly vapor permeable fabrics: either 1.1 ripstop nylon (for any conditions) or 4 oz. canvas (for extreme cold).

    I know there are folks who are enjoying success with hammock socks that double as a tarp. Our efforts along that line failed significantly. I am not a fan of vapor barriers under or around hammocks, except lightweight IX UQs for mild weather.

    Fortunately, the least expensive fabrics are highly vapor permeable. That's what I believe makes the best hammock socks. Wind resistant and vapor permeable are the key attributes.

    Merry Christmas!

    - MacEntyre, waiting for the kids to awaken!
    - MacEntyre
    "We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately." - Ben Franklin
    www.MollyMacGear.com

  10. #110
    Senior Member wisenber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    Wisenber speaks wise words... but I disagree about using low vapor permeable fabrics in low temps.

    For what it's worth, we stopped making hammock socks insulated with IX long ago. Now we only use highly vapor permeable fabrics: either 1.1 ripstop nylon (for any conditions) or 4 oz. canvas (for extreme cold).

    I know there are folks who are enjoying success with hammock socks that double as a tarp. Our efforts along that line failed significantly. I am not a fan of vapor barriers under or around hammocks, except lightweight IX UQs for mild weather.

    Fortunately, the least expensive fabrics are highly vapor permeable. That's what I believe makes the best hammock socks. Wind resistant and vapor permeable are the key attributes.

    Merry Christmas!

    - MacEntyre, waiting for the kids to awaken!
    In deep cold where water remains in a solid state, canvas is definitely king of the hammock socks.

    As far as VB clothing goes, it's benefits are counter-intuitive and requires a good bit of practice before applying when your well-being might depend on doing it correctly. One should either choose fully vapor permeable or vapor barrier, not in between. The area in between those two is where you get wet and freeze.

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