OWF 0.9oz Fabric

**MarshLaw303** · 01-09-2011, 07:45

is it possible that the right side is DWR treated and the wrong side isn't? I know M90 has a great DWR as does the intrepid stuff from OWFinc so is there a chance it is just on the non-calendared side?

-Tim

**jbo_c** · 01-09-2011, 21:13

Hey, Marsh. We've gotten a little sidetracked from the original question(me included). I know you work with this stuff. What's your experience/opinion?

Thanks.

Jbo

**MarshLaw303** · 01-10-2011, 08:28

me likey! I prefer this material to 1.1 rip as it is much softer against the skin(think a flat vs glossy finish, on the right side

) so it doesn't feel as sticky when i sweat and it blocks a lot more wind than standard 1.1rip. i choose it over M90 purely for the fact that i can get it at half the price. I like this and M90 the same and use them interchangeably.

-Tim

**KerMegan** · 01-10-2011, 09:32

MPO(my personal opinion) is that right/wrong started when designs were printed on fabrics, being bright on the printed side and dimmer on the other side, naturally one wished the more attractive side to be seen..
if there is no substantive difference between sides, 'right' and 'wrong' are in-applicable ( i almost said immaterial..)
whichever side you want folks to see, or pleases you best is therefore the 'right' side to be out.
hope that helps!
KM (who has even laid out pieces -across- the grain line [gasp!] if that was a more efficient use of fabric)

**MarshLaw303** · 01-10-2011, 09:58

the 2 sides of m90/interpid90 are not the same and the shiny side is the wrong side as i am pretty sure the dull side is the DWR side

-Tim

**Just Jeff** · 01-10-2011, 10:16

Originally Posted by KerMegan

KM (who has even laid out pieces -across- the grain line [gasp!] if that was a more efficient use of fabric)

Yikes...and you admitted that in public!

I agree with you. Some fabrics really do have a right and wrong side that will affect performance. Otherwise, it doesn't really matter.

The smooth vs "fluffy" side for momentum may make a difference, though...increasing the surface area on one side would make for more efficient evaporation. Kinda like a heat exchanger on a stove, or the heat diffusers you see on the back of heavy duty differentials on trucks.

But then the question would be...do you want the increased surface area on the inside to soak up the moisture more quickly and transport it to the surface of the fabric where it can evaporate, or on the outside so that what moisture does make it to the fabric will evaporate more quickly.

Chicken? Egg?

**MarshLaw303** · 01-10-2011, 10:55

for me i buy the 20D stuff cause it feels so much nice against the skin, i lose this benefit by placing the shiny side out, might as well use 1.1rip.

-Tim

**jbo_c** · 01-10-2011, 12:38

What about this part?

"I'm using some to make a down TQ and I've noticed that where I pin it, the holes don't "heal". When I've used 1.9oz and 1.7oz, after a while where you pin it, the fabric works it's way back together. Doesn't seem to be the case with this stuff. Now I have this nice piece of shell for a down quilt that has pretty good sized pin-holes along each seam."

Jbo

**MarshLaw303** · 01-10-2011, 13:06

in my projects i have not found that to be an issue. perhaps my pins are smaller or sharper or perhaps the holes are kept in the seam vs the body of the project (this may be a lot of it) but i have made a number of down quilts from this stuff with no complaints of leakage. The nice thing is if you are using 800+ down there are very few spines, just clusters which don't worm out little holes very well anyway.

-Tim

**Just Jeff** · 01-10-2011, 13:58

I've used "non-down-proof" fabric for a few down projects and haven't found it to be a problem. High quality down doesn't have many quills to poke through anyway. I'd expect the same from little pin-holes...might drive you crazy but I doubt it'll noticeably degrade the performance.