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  1. #1

    New way to make a loop?

    I've been having fun making double locked brummels but it seems like the downside is that you need access to both ends of the whole line where as if you just feed the amsteel back into itself and stitch it you don't.

    I however really don't like the lack of eloquence on having to stitch the loop.

    I came up with something I'm guessing already exists and I want to know what its called so I can find out more.

    Pull the end of line through itself completely like you do for a locked brummel.

    Then using some tricky wire work feed the end of the loop into itself, around the inside of the loop and then back out and down the inside of the main line.

    It seems to work but ends up compressing the amsteel so that the loop you end up with is a loop of bunched up amsteel. I have no idea what the load capacity is.

    If this is too confusing let me know and I'll snap some pics.

    I used this rather than a back splice to dress the dangly bits of my UCR's so if I need to add weight I've got a loop already.

  2. #2
    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Bubba's Avatar
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    The McDonald brummel (see the link in post #2) can be use if you only have access to one end. What you suggest sounds similar but I need to see pics.
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  4. #4
    This sounds just like the McDonald method.

  5. #5


    I don't think so... at least, if it is then I'm looking at it wrong.

    Here is what it looks like finished.

    The diagram shows what is going on but I personally get confused as to how I made it looking at it.

    The easy way to make it is to pull the tag end through the standing end and then push your wire towards the loop from the standing end where you'll remove the final bury. You have to work it into the tag end at the intersection you made by pulling it through and then around the inside of the loop till you get to the other side of the same intersection. Slip it out enough to grasp the tag end and pull it into its own loop and then through itself at the intersection back into the standing end.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6


    Here's another way to loop at it. Start by passing the tag end through the standing end and then go back along the standing end to where your bury will end.
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    Last edited by Gqgeek81; 01-11-2011 at 18:15. Reason: .

  7. #7
    in it for the naps oldgringo's Avatar
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    "Tricky wire work", indeed.

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  8. #8
    Senior Member dant8ro's Avatar
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    Like the look of the loop, very finished looking. Any way do do a destructive test? let us know how well it holds?

  9. #9
    Not sure how to test it. If you bend the loop just right you can get a hold of the tag end where to turns from the loop back into the standing end and you can start to pull it back out but you kind of have to intentionally try, I don't think it will work out on its own. Tension on the loop itself is directed right back into the standing end with little or no obvious tension transferred to the bury. It all catches on the intersection.

    Figuring out the measurements is a bit tricky. The loop ends up compressed and the 7/64's seems to compress at about a 4:1 ratio plus you have another loop's worth inside the compressed visible loop. So to measure I'd figure out your final desired loop size and wrap the loop 4 more times plus the desired bury length down the standing end.

    Really though I think the only advantage here is the looks if you happen to like it. Who knows, maybe its crazy strong too.

  10. #10
    Senior Member TiredFeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgringo View Post
    "Tricky wire work", indeed.
    Agree - I use the McDonald Brummel for all of my spliced fixed loops - much easier.

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