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  1. #11
    Senior Member te-wa's Avatar
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    posted to the gallery last week. hint: ITS SILVER

    btw, as Jackleberry describes on loft - this photo was taken just seconds after hanging this uq, so loft is not nearly full yet. actually, i filled this quilt by hand and it never really got a chance to break up the clumps and whatnot.
    Last edited by te-wa; 01-19-2011 at 22:53.

  2. #12
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    i see it and it looks nice. i like that silver

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackleberry View Post
    The way you interpret the statement would appear to violate the principle of loft, which would allow one to make a bag/quilt twice as warm for a given loft value by stuffing it with 200% as much down as would normally be required given the fill-power.
    zero overstuff would technically be very understuffed by a customer's standpoint, but that's important when you're talking about zero overstuff compared 50% compressed.

    what is the "correct" fill level? that's a matter of preference. i garantee everyone uses some kind of overstuff anyway (weather or not you think it's enough). an oz of down takes up like 1500 cubic inches or something, so you could take a standard quilt, remove a good portion of the down, and you could still get it to loft fully.

    So if your quilt is sparsely filled (read zero overstuff), and then you double that, it will be nice and plump and a heck of alot warmer, all without changing the loft.

    when you talk about overstuffing by 100%, that doesn't mean doubling the fill in somebody's quilt, those are already somewhat "overstuffed" to begin with.

    good call on doing the length differential mike, there is a definate curve from end to end even on a short quilt like the breeze or the yeti, certainly not as much as there is side to side, but some differential is still needed (imo)
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 01-20-2011 at 13:16.

  4. #14
    Senior Member NCPatrick's Avatar
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    Ummm. I'm not finding a picture of this UQ. I'm very interested. Have you got any links to the pictures you may have posted?

    Thanks!


    "Civilization is the limitless multiplication of unnecessary necessities."
    - Mark Twain
    “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.”
    - John Burroughs

  5. #15
    Senior Member JerryW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    ...an oz of down takes up like 1500 cubic inches or something...
    Brandon - I'm not sure I understand this statement. I thought the fill power rating determined how many cubic inches the down would fill.

    For example:
    1 ounce of 800 fill power down should fill 800 cubic inches.
    1 ounce of 650 fill power down should fill 650 cubic inches.
    And so forth.

    That's how I have been figuring out how much down to put in my DIY quilts(before overstuff). Calculate the volume of a baffle, in cubic inches, divide by the fill power I'm using, equals how many ounces are needed for that baffle. It has worked well for me, so far. Do I have this wrong?


    Jerry

    Mike - sorry for dragging your thread off topic.
    The "Search" function is your friend!

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by warbonnetguy View Post
    zero overstuff would technically be very understuffed by a customer's standpoint, but that's important when you're talking about zero overstuff compared 50% compressed.

    what is the "correct" fill level? that's a matter of preference. i garantee everyone uses some kind of overstuff anyway (weather or not you think it's enough). an oz of down takes up like 1500 cubic inches or something, so you could take a standard quilt, remove a good portion of the down, and you could still get it to loft fully.

    So if your quilt is sparsely filled (read zero overstuff), and then you double that, it will be nice and plump and a heck of alot warmer, all without changing the loft.

    when you talk about overstuffing by 100%, that doesn't mean doubling the fill in somebody's quilt, those are already somewhat "overstuffed" to begin with.

    good call on doing the length differential mike, there is a definate curve from end to end even on a short quilt like the breeze or the yeti, certainly not as much as there is side to side, but some differential is still needed (imo)
    OK, let me attempt to clarify a little bit. Fill power is effectively a measurement of the expansive force 1oz of down exerts agains a known, calibrated force (a weight on top of the measuring apparatus [not sure what the standard value is here...]).

    Zero overstuff, as you call it, is acheived in a quilt when the expansive pressure of the down fill just overcomes the compressive force of gravity and internal forces acting on the shell. Determining where this point is requires an accurate volumetric measurement of the shell, not a simple formula of X Y and Z of the quilt outline. The shell material and construction cannot be ignored... The required fill for a 1.9oz/yd nylon shell and a 0.9oz/yd shell MUST be different (even if only very slightly) because more expansive force is required to hold up 1.9oz/yd...

    Physical modelling would be much easier here, and would basically replace the fill-power measurement stage and the virtual modelling... Just stuff the quilt, allow it to loft, and keep adding down until the outward pressure of the fill on the shell results in a full and puffy loft (but not necessarily one that springs back instantly when disturbed). The total weight of the quilt could then be measured and the shell weight subtracted thus giving a fairly accurate fill level for a given fill-power of down.

    Adding a slight overstuff here will help maintain a consistent loft as the loft of the down degrades with humidity, etc. Adding extreme overstuff would decrease the lofting time and increase the resiliency... But it would also increase the weight... I have my doubts that it would do much to increase the warmth.

    In short... I think that the practice of roughly calculating fill level based on fill power and dimensions of the quilt alone is insufficient to account for all the factors involved, resulting in understuffed quilts.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Jsaults's Avatar
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    Am I missing something, or am I just clueless?

    "..the top layer on a Freeze is not only 6" wider than the bottom across the width of the uq, but also it is now 2" longer, along the length..."

    Seems to me that it would be the other way around?

    Jim

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackleberry View Post
    OK, let me attempt to clarify a little bit. Fill power is effectively a measurement of the expansive force 1oz of down exerts agains a known, calibrated force (a weight on top of the measuring apparatus [not sure what the standard value is here...]).

    Zero overstuff, as you call it, is acheived in a quilt when the expansive pressure of the down fill just overcomes the compressive force of gravity and internal forces acting on the shell. Determining where this point is requires an accurate volumetric measurement of the shell, not a simple formula of X Y and Z of the quilt outline. The shell material and construction cannot be ignored... The required fill for a 1.9oz/yd nylon shell and a 0.9oz/yd shell MUST be different (even if only very slightly) because more expansive force is required to hold up 1.9oz/yd...

    Physical modelling would be much easier here, and would basically replace the fill-power measurement stage and the virtual modelling... Just stuff the quilt, allow it to loft, and keep adding down until the outward pressure of the fill on the shell results in a full and puffy loft (but not necessarily one that springs back instantly when disturbed). The total weight of the quilt could then be measured and the shell weight subtracted thus giving a fairly accurate fill level for a given fill-power of down.

    Adding a slight overstuff here will help maintain a consistent loft as the loft of the down degrades with humidity, etc. Adding extreme overstuff would decrease the lofting time and increase the resiliency... But it would also increase the weight... I have my doubts that it would do much to increase the warmth.

    In short... I think that the practice of roughly calculating fill level based on fill power and dimensions of the quilt alone is insufficient to account for all the factors involved, resulting in understuffed quilts.
    well, if you want to get technical about it, consider this: we were discussing down not losing any insulating ability when compressed by 50%. that's "50% compressed" compared to "zero compressed". zero compressed nobody uses, and what you prefer is probably alot closer to 50% compressed than you think, possibly even more than 50%.

    take for instance a rectangular quilt 86" x 48" x 2" , that's 8256 cu" of volume. totally uncompressed down takes up about 1500 cubic inches of space per oz (that's about what i recall when i measured it), so 8256 inches of volume divided by 1500 gives 5.5 oz for a fill weight strictly by the numbers for zero compression (or as close as you can get since there is a shell pressing on it like you say). it so happens that the jrb hudson river is exactly those dimensions, and although the jacks no longer list a fill weight (or a baffle height) in their specs, i bet money they're using at least 10oz of fill in that quilt, so compared to totally uncompressed down, they're down is technically close to half compression. (10oz or more fill compared to 5-6oz), and the same goes fro everybody else, some companies overstuff even more.
    Last edited by warbonnetguy; 01-20-2011 at 17:37.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryW View Post
    Brandon - I'm not sure I understand this statement. I thought the fill power rating determined how many cubic inches the down would fill.

    For example:
    1 ounce of 800 fill power down should fill 800 cubic inches.
    1 ounce of 650 fill power down should fill 650 cubic inches.
    And so forth.

    That's how I have been figuring out how much down to put in my DIY quilts(before overstuff). Calculate the volume of a baffle, in cubic inches, divide by the fill power I'm using, equals how many ounces are needed for that baffle. It has worked well for me, so far. Do I have this wrong?


    Jerry

    Mike - sorry for dragging your thread off topic.
    yeah, like he said, those fill power numbers are with a calibrated weight pushing down on it, it lofts alot higher when uncompressed. (sitting loose in a box for instance)

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jsaults View Post
    "..the top layer on a Freeze is not only 6" wider than the bottom across the width of the uq, but also it is now 2" longer, along the length..."

    Seems to me that it would be the other way around?

    Jim
    no, the curve from side to side (width) is a much sharper curve so more differential is needed there

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