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  1. #11
    gargoyle's Avatar
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    RAW, A spreader bar could be hung vertically. Then your hammock can attach to the the spreader, reducing the lateral stresses. Bracing can also be installed to reduce stress/torque.

    I guess for peace of mind, build a stand.
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  2. #12
    Senior Member wetcatcarl's Avatar
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    your home sounds interesting

  3. #13
    Senior Member PuckerFactor's Avatar
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    I would just make an eye bolt with a standoff the width of the drywall+studs. Maybe 2 bolts into the concrete, one above the other, with a piece of metal connecting them, with the eye on that.
    Something like this:
    hanging bracket.jpg

    Glad you got the house sorted out. My dad spent my formative years building our log cabin all by himself, while working night shift, so I can empathize.

    PF
    It's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

    Formerly known as Acercanto, my trail name is MacGuyver to some, and Pucker Factor to others.

    It's not procrastinating, its proactively delaying the implementation of the energy-intensive phase of the project until the enthusiasm factor is at its maximum effectiveness. - Randy Glasbergen

  4. #14
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    RAW, A spreader bar could be hung vertically. Then your hammock can attach to the the spreader, reducing the lateral stresses.
    This sounds like an interesting idea.
    Do you no how to do this / with what kind of spreader bar?

  5. #15
    gargoyle's Avatar
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    I'll build one and show you...

    stay tuned.
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  6. #16
    kayak karl's Avatar
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    "Tenting is equivalent to a bum crawling into a cardboard box, hammocking is an art" KK

  7. #17
    flatline's Avatar
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    just a thought:

    1. cut squares of plywood ( 10'x10' ), stack'em, glue'm and screw'em until their thickness is equal to or slightly greater than the distance between the concrete and the finished surface (painted side) of the drywall.

    2. use the above sq as a template to cut a hole in the dw ( between furring strips )

    3. pre-drill and counter sink holes for Tap-Cons in each corner of the sq block.

    4. slip the "block" into the hole in the dw and drill the correct size holes in the concrete, speced on Top-Cons box, then screw screw'em in.

    5. attach a finished surface 12"x12" (oak whatever) get some type of molding to finish the edge/boarder.

    6. securely screw your anchor through the finished surface and as deeply as possible into the backer block.

    safe solid anchor point and only forty-leven hours to do it!
    Last edited by flatline; 02-18-2011 at 17:14.

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    I'll build one and show you...

    stay tuned.
    This is the idea I had.

    Sorry for continously bad pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bear's Pinnata; 02-18-2011 at 17:23. Reason: lame excuse added

  9. #19
    Senior Member RAW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bear's Pinnata View Post
    This is the idea I had.

    Sorry for continously bad pics.
    For my situation, this would still call for some reinforcements behind the drywall.

    But that's a cool idea. I like it.

  10. #20
    flatline's Avatar
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    may i ask, how much space is behind the drywall?

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