I was able to pick up the trimmings from arrow shafts at a local outdoor store were they cut the arrow shafts down to size for the hunters. I got a handfull of the trimmings (10 pieces about 9" long each) for free.
Can't beat that price.
STinGa
I was able to pick up the trimmings from arrow shafts at a local outdoor store were they cut the arrow shafts down to size for the hunters. I got a handfull of the trimmings (10 pieces about 9" long each) for free.
Can't beat that price.
STinGa
Sarcasm is a dying art.
Eagle Scout September '85 Troop 339 Smyrna, TN
In the configuration you are showing you need to have a real strong toggle. If you can break your toggle by hand it will have zero chance of holding you if you are asking the toggle to take your weight directly. The marlins spike takes all the weight on the knot a toggle through a loop with the whoopie wrapped around the toggle is putting all the weight on the toggle and that is a lot of weight when you consider the forces exerted when you get into the hammock or roll around.
Pete.
The opinions expressed by this user are not those of a competent individual. If they were that would mean I know what I am talking about.
The set up you're thinking about, G, is not as flexible as a marlin spike hitch in your tree huggers. You can set a marlin spike hitch ANYWHERE along the length of your tree huggers' tails (from right up against the trunk of the tree, to all the way out to the end using the sewn loop over the tail to form the knot). I used to use your proposed set up too until I realized how much more flexible a marlin spike hitch is. Also, I ditched my gutter spike toggles (kept dropping them in the woods) and I just use sticks found in camp. I try to use "drift wood" (sticks that have shed their bark and are smooth and very hard). They're clean and smooth and easy on the tree huggers. Shorter is better than longer and I err on the thicker side after reading threads about marlin spikes.
See threads on the subject:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...=failed+marlin
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=14982
Good luck!
Last edited by Pipsissewa; 03-21-2011 at 14:09.
"Pips"
Mountains have a dreamy way
Of folding up a noisy day
In quiet covers, cool and gray.
---Leigh Buckner Hanes
Surely, God could have made a better way to sleep.
Surely, God never did.
Thanks all. Good points on using the marlin spike hitch instead of a fixed loop.
I will check out that knot.
Thanks.
I use cheap biners and it gives me yet another place to hang stuff like stuff sacks, etc. I use ones without the notch on the gate allowing the knot to slide right through when I want to release it.
“Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?”
― Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
I've been using the cut off tips of large knitting needles from Walmart for the marlin spike for a couple years now. Not sure what size...they are about 3/8 to 1/2" in dia. Like someone else said, real purty color - mine are a metalic blue. Cut off about 3.5" inches of the pointy end, sanded the cut edge and drilled a hole for mason line loop to keep them tethered so I don't loose em. I'm about 230 lbs and never had a problem with them.
i use carbon fiber arrow shafts for my marlin spikes.
i think i would be cautious with carbon fiber since your potentially applying a load perpendiclar to the strength which it was intended to be used. cabon fiber is better at compression loads for a hollow tubing and not lateral.
I'm going to try another archery shop here in town.
What I currently have are arrows with a carbon fiber weave inside of an aluminum shaft.
I would prefer full aluminum, so I will keep looking.
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
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