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  1. #21
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Carmel, IN
    Hammock
    Hennessey Hammock
    Tarp
    One I made
    Insulation
    Underquilt I made
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    6

    Exclamation Cleats for securing a HH

    I have used Clamcleat's CL234 cleat (www.clamcleat.com) for three years now to rig both my wife's, my son's, and my HH. Of the three of us I am the heaviest at 205 lbs. When used with 6 mm climbing utility line (replacing the original smaller diameter high strength line) the cleat secures the rope quite adequately in both dry and wet weather. What I like most about these cleats is the quick setup, the easy adjustment, and the rapid teardown. The latter was most important once in a severe windstorm and started me on the search for a better way to secure the hammock than the clumsy knot HH recommends. The teeth of the Niteize cleats are very aggressive and I worry about wear on the rope with continued use.

    Genco Marine (www.gencomarine.com) has the CL234 for $7.95. Yeah, its a bit much for an injection molded polycarbonate part but since it's a one time buy and considering its good performance I don't consider it to be too expensive.

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bayview Township
    Hammock
    WB Blackbird & Traveler
    Tarp
    MC SpinntexDeLux
    Insulation
    MW3,Yeti,HGsb,UL90
    Suspension
    WS
    Posts
    825
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    6
    JTW or anyone else. Have you tried the ClamCleat Jr (CL203) model. Designed for 3-6mm rope and 17 grams for the plastic, 35gm for the metal. The ClamCleat web site notes 1-6mm line, but then has the 3-6mm for recommended rope diameter.

    Using tarp guy line micro-tensioners (?Mini LineLoc) that are almost weightless for the tarp ridgeline tie outs. Too small a cleat opening to accommodate a hammock suspension line. Plus I wouldn't trust it even if the line would fit. On my windsurfing mast base they use a cleat similar in size to a CL203. I need to pull over #100 to downhaul even with a 3:1 to 4:1 mechanical advantage. Wondering if the CL203 would hold up a #600 load?

    Was considering using the Figure9 small for the tarp. But after figuring in wt., cost, probably need to tune up the teeth to reduce rope wear, having spare micro-tensioners and so far it's holding no point in changing the setup.
    Last edited by koaloha05; 09-11-2008 at 12:33.

  3. #23
    Rain Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Hammock
    Modified HH Ultralite
    Tarp
    MacCat or OMW
    Insulation
    DIY UQ and UGQ TQ
    Suspension
    whoopie slings
    Posts
    2,324
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    7

    Lightbulb Don't forget trigonometry when figuring weight limits.

    Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes, but as I read this thread it seems no one is taking into account some of the critical factors that professionals use to calculate load limits and safety factors.

    Saying that a line or cleat is rated at x lbs does not mean that is the figure you can rely on. Same for hiker's weight. A 1,000 lb line or cleat is not necessarily safe for a 200 lb hiker, for instance.

    1. A knot or cleat can weaken a line by up to half. So, your 1,000 line just became safe for 500 lbs.

    2. Stated weight limits (especially for lines) are for weights hung directly vertical. Hammocks are hung almost horizontal. The trigonometry and physics of hanging a weight from a horizontally stretched line can be vastly different from a line hanging straight down. Take off half again for argument's sake, and your 1,000 lb line (that went to 500 lbs with a knot/cleat) is now 250lbs. That may still seem safe to a 200 lb hiker, right? Keep reading.

    3. Stated weight limits are based on static weights. No hiker crawling into a hammock is a static weight. He/she is dynamic. Dynamic weights can equal several times their "real" weight as they bounce and "fall." Thus, that 200 lb hiker suddenly became the equivalent of 400 or 600 lbs.

    Now, how safe is that 600 lb bouncing hiker in that hammock held up by a line that is EFFECTIVELY good for 250 lbs? NOT. (pun for knot?!)

    I've heard of more than one hammocker breaking his/her line, plus another that pulled down a rafter in a shelter. A little middle-school trig can explain how that happens. The (stated) numbers lie.

    P.S. You can find much better explanations and analysis on some caving, mountain rescue, equipment rigging, and sailing sites, not to mention on SGT. Rock's site.

    Rain Man

  4. #24
    Senior Member JaxHiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Hammock
    Lite Owl; Light Hiker
    Tarp
    Toxaway;MacCat Dlx
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    Burrow; Incubator
    Suspension
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    Posts
    2,366
    I don't like math. It makes my head hurt.

  5. #25
    Senior Member *HangMan*'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OVER YONDER'
    Hammock
    WARBONNET RIDGERUNNER
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    UG WINTER PALACE
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    NEOAIR XTHERM
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    WEB AND BUCKLES
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    176
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    12
    Another Mathalete. I'm jealous of your talent...but my head hurts..lol

  6. #26
    rain man makes some good points.

    here's osme really useful numbers i got from right here on hf.

    for a suspension angle of 30 degrees, the amount of force on each rope is equal to your bodyweight.

    for a 20 degree angle force is aprox 146% of bodyweight on each rope

    i've heard 15 degrees as the minimum angle you can reasonably achieve for a loaded hammock, that would put 193% your weight on each rope.

    bouncing indeed does add some weight, but thin nylon stretches ALOT and acts as a shock absorber. only light bouncing should ever occur unless you're jumping into the hammock.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Chris.Biomed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Sweden, Uppsala
    Hammock
    Clark NA
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    Clark XL
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    Well the 500lbs monster rope tie from Hitchcraft seems like they would be up to the job

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