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  1. #1
    Senior Member chickenwing's Avatar
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    short sticthes vs long stitches

    Almost a year ago I purchased 7 yards of green silnylon from Noah Lamport. It has been sitting in a box for a long time while life and other projects got in the way. After several hammocks, bug nets, and quilts; I have time and confidence enough to start my new tarp. I have somewhat of a design in mind, but what I am unsure about is somewhat of a technical nature.

    When making the seams for the ridge line, tie-out reinforcements, and edges; should I use long stitches or short stitches?

    Thanks in advance!
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  2. #2
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    Ray Jardine "The Ray Way Tarp Book" 2003 recommends 10 - 12 stitches per inch if that's any help

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    10 - 12 stitches/in or 3-4 millimeters stitch length are somewhat standard. However, the whole issue is one of personal preference versus skill level. If you are doing cat cut edges you might find it easier to mange the curves with a shorter than normal stitch. Don't worry about the number of needle holes, you are going to seal the seal anyway. If you are doing a rolled hem in several steps you might the first line of stitches which will be folded inside can be quite long. The seam will go faster. In short, there is no right or wrong answer. Shorter stitches can be stronger than long ones. But they are much more of a pain to rip out if need be. Do what ever floats your boat. Within reason, it's all good.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramblinrev View Post
    Shorter stitches can be stronger than long ones. But they are much more of a pain to rip out if need be.
    Yep. Learned that the hard way.

  5. #5
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    Rev... I believe your math is a little off this morning on stitch length: 10 stitches per inch is a 2.5 millimeter stitch length and 12 stitches per inch is a 2.1 millimeter stitch length.

    For small thread like most home sewers typically use, I would go with a longer stitch length on hems where you don't particularly need the strength, a shorter stitch length on tie-outs where you do need more strength, and a mid length stitch for the ridgeline.

    The advantage of using longer stitch length where you can is not only what Rev mentions about being easier to rip out if need be, but it also uses less thread and the sewing goes much faster. The faster part you will appreciate on long edges.

    You need to be careful trying to use too short of a stitch length by thinking that shorter is stronger so therefore shorter is always better. If your choice of thread size and needle size isn't scaled appropriately for what you are working with, you will have a mess on your hands as things will tend to jam up. Likewise, don't get carried away with thinking that where you don't need strength in the stitching that you can just use as long a stitch length as your machine is capable of, at some point you will just be basting instead of sewing and it will not hold together.

    I would suggest this as a guide:

    Short stitch length- 2.5 mm (10 stitches per inch)
    Medium stitch length- 3 mm (8.5 stitches per inch)
    Long stitch length- 4 mm (6.4 stitches per inch)
    Youngblood AT2000

  6. #6
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    For me the sewing speed isn't limited by stitch length but by my skill level. I can't go full tilt no matter what, so I use my Brother's default stitch length, which I believe is 2 or 2.5mm. As has been mentioned, shorter stitches are stronger than long stitches.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Youngblood View Post
    Rev... I believe your math is a little off this morning on stitch length: 10 stitches per inch is a 2.5 millimeter stitch length and 12 stitches per inch is a 2.1 millimeter stitch length.

    I would suggest this as a guide:

    Short stitch length- 2.5 mm (10 stitches per inch)
    Medium stitch length- 3 mm (8.5 stitches per inch)
    Long stitch length- 4 mm (6.4 stitches per inch)
    Youngblood... the math was not going through my mind. Rather I was thinking about the different machine and the way they calibrate. Some use a stitch per inch calibration. Mine and others use a millimeter stitch length to calibrate. Hence any one with either type of machine would have a figure to use as a base line. Sheesh quants.....
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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  8. #8
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    I was told by a friend who makes parachute rigs that 7 stitches per inch is all anyone ever needs for strength (and he jumps out of planes with that!). This is about a 4.5mm setting on most machines. It's what I have been using and I have never had any problems. However, he does use an industrial Juki, but I don't think that should make much of a difference in stitch strength. However, however, he does recommend extra back-stitches on the ends of the run (6-7).

  9. #9
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    I've learned the hard way that you don't want to make stitches smaller that those that you are willing to rip out
    Mike
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  10. #10
    PapaSmurf's Avatar
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    I normally keep the stitches on my Singer 192k Spartan as long as the adjustment lever will go, but never thought to measure them. Looks like this setting yields 7 stitches per inch.

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