DIY Bridge Hammock

**Ryvr** · 04-21-2011, 10:44

Hey all took some of the suggestions and made refinements to my diy bridge mark 3. Its ready to be bugnetted. More updates to come when I find my way out of the hammock........

Ryvr

**dant8ro** · 04-21-2011, 16:01

lol, pics or it didn't happen!

**KenDen** · 04-21-2011, 22:58

Another benefit of the shorter foot end spreader (unexpected, at least by me) is that the hammock does not twist so easily on its axis as when it has equal length spreader bars.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by twist ....

I am still experimenting with my last bridge design and the last one I made is much shorter. The body is 78". On this hammock, I was surprised to find that by making the foot end narrower it seemed to increase the feeling of shoulder squeeze.

**GrizzlyAdams** · 04-21-2011, 23:31

Originally Posted by KenDen

I am not sure I understand what you mean by twist ....

Tippiness. It seems to me that with a shorter foot end the hammock resists more rotation on its triangle apex to triangle apex when I shift weight.

I am still experimenting with my last bridge design and the last one I made is much shorter. The body is 78". On this hammock, I was surprised to find that by making the foot end narrower it seemed to increase the feeling of shoulder squeeze.

Certainly (depending on just how much shorter the foot end is) you are more constrained, and I can see that the hammock body will rise "faster" as a function of the distance from the head end because it isn't being stretched out. Could be that is what you are sensing.

**KenDen** · 04-22-2011, 10:03

Ryvr

Next one will be slightly shorter, 90" worked but I felt 86" would have been perfect

I started with a pretty long body on my hammock and found that I was always moving to one end or the other. My last one is only 6” longer than I am tall and I really think that I like it better. For the end caps, take a look at what Hangnout great post using a curved end and shock cord. It’s very easy to do and works great!

Grizz, I associated the tippiness more with the length of the suspension triangle than the length of the spreader bar. But I can see where having a shorter spreader bar would be less tippy.

I can see that the hammock body will rise "faster" as a function of the distance from the head end because it isn't being stretched out. Could be that is what you are sensing.

After reading that about sixty times, I think that describes it very well. I really did not notice a difference at the shoulders on a longer hammock so it took me by surprise in my new and improved short hammock.

**Ryvr** · 04-22-2011, 10:58

So after shelving the previous attempt. I tried another bridge hammock, and made the changes I described earlier. I shortened the hammock to 86" and was much happier with the results. This fits me better and i dont feel like I am lying in the bottom of a boat.

A steeper parabolic cut also helped with this and I went with 6.5".

Now time to attach the bug net and I'm gonna take Grizz's solution and try it.

What I've taken to more recently is to sew a ribbon of bias tape along the edge of the hammock, and then sew the bottom of the zipper to that , and the bugnet on the top edge. Much easier.

Some more pics to show off the final product.

Much flatter lay then the last attempt. Thank you to Grizz and Teedees suggestions there.

Better Bar Tacks then the last one.

Interior shot

Packed down and camouflaged

Dans Micro Loops (part of my whoopies, to prevent me from pulling them right through) Amazing job Mr. Dan

I've decided to affectionately call my Hammock the Lazy Ryvr Bridge

Thanks everyone and any further bug net insight would be great.

Ryvr

**GrizzlyAdams** · 04-22-2011, 11:38

Originally Posted by KenDen

Ryvr
I started with a pretty long body on my hammock and found that I was always moving to one end or the other. My last one is only 6” longer than I am tall and I really think that I like it better. For the end caps, take a look at what Hangnout great post using a curved end and shock cord. It’s very easy to do and works great!

Grizz, I associated the tippiness more with the length of the suspension triangle than the length of the spreader bar. But I can see where having a shorter spreader bar would be less tippy.
After reading that about sixty times, I think that describes it very well. I really did not notice a difference at the shoulders on a longer hammock so it took me by surprise in my new and improved short hammock.

The most important measure that determines how tippy a bridge will be is the distance between a ridgeline (possibily imaginary) from triangle apex to triangle apex, and the loaded hammock's center of mass. That ridgeline is the axis of rotation. A gathered end hammock has one too, but from tree to tree---hence higher than you have for a bridge. Any way one can increase the distance between axis of rotation and center of mass will decrease the tippiness. Making the hammock body deeper is one way. Increasing the lengths of the sides of the suspension triangle is another, because as the triangles get larger, the apex follows the slant ( approximately 30 degrees ) up towards the tree.

The only real downsides to having the triangles be as long as possible are (a) more cord, which isn't much of an issue using dynaglide 'cause that stuff is so compact, and (b) complications closing off one end of the tarp because now you have two separate lines coming out.

The tipping doesn't bother me so I've not gone really long triangles. But I can see the advantages, sure.