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Thread: Indoor Hanging

  1. #11
    another off the shelf solution is to use a couple of IKEA BRODER Bars, foot rests and extension bars.

    you can set one at each end of the room, securing them in place against the floor and a ceiling joyce....
    You can orient the foot rests towards one another to spread the your hang load inwards ...
    You can further secure the setup by running another bar ontop between the two for additional stiffness / security.

    Last edited by LeDude; 05-25-2011 at 20:04.

  2. #12
    I suggest that you use steel chain link rail in place of the PVC.

  3. #13
    Alamosa's Avatar
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    I think that is a great idea, Steve. For rooms that you will use the entire width for the hammock (stand backs to walls on both ends); this should work well.

    Here are some thoughts that jumped to mind based on the possible forces to be overcome. I made a simple picture to illustrate what I am describing.

    1) What if you made it out of a piece of plywood instead of 2x4s. The plywood could be cut so the base was large enough to eliminate any tipping side to side. It would also limit how far it extends from the wall to about 3/4".

    2) A simple cup could be made out of wood to hold the crossbar. This would be similar to how a curtain rod sits in the hanger. This cup would hold the downward force.

    The cup could be glued on to the base with good polyurethane glue or this piece could even be extended to the floor if you wished.

    3) The crossbar would be the perfect length to hold the base against the wall. You would probably want to extent the top a little higher than is shown so that it held the frame against the wall and would not allow the base to move from the wall at the floor. No attachments necessary.

    4) The crossbar would have the compressive forces against it, so I would use something heavier than PVC. Fence posts or conduit would probably be effective though.

    The longer the span, the heavier the material I would use and the more likely it will need to be supported in the middle. Perhaps an opportunity to use an amsteel line across the very top of the span in a suspension bridge type capacity to again eliminate damage to the ceiling.

    5) The hammock could be attached to eyelets attached through the stand and cup. Applying weight to the hammock would lock everything together.

    These are my initial thoughts anyway. Remove the hammock, lift out the rod, and carry the stand out.

    I think with any stand like this you should probably be prepared to do some paint touchup when you take it out. There will probably be some movement and rubbing between the stand and the wall. Hopefully, shouldn't be any drywall damage to deal with though. Perhaps padding of some sort on the back would not be a bad idea.

    Again, great idea Steve!
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Pipsissewa's Avatar
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    Sorry--just catching up from anther thread. You could use a jig saw to cut half circles (cups) out of the top edges of the plywood braces to hold the cross beam. Then you'd only need some way to keep the cross beam from sliding forward or backward in the plywood cutouts (bolts through the pipe fore and aft of the plywood???). I like this plywood brace idea!!
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