It seems this is how I can get the most wide/long/flat and most importantly, comfortable lay from my GT ultralight. I just don't like how all of that force is on those threads. Is there some way to make this safer?
Thanks
It seems this is how I can get the most wide/long/flat and most importantly, comfortable lay from my GT ultralight. I just don't like how all of that force is on those threads. Is there some way to make this safer?
Thanks
You could reinforce it with some grosgrain ribbon, but it really isn't necessary. The ENO style hammocks use this method and are rated to 400lbs. The few I've made with this method, I have simply put three rows of stitching in place. I agree that it sure doesn't seem like it would hold, but you'll be surprised how stout it is. Bigger issue IMO is using cord that is too narrow and may eventually 'saw' through the fabric. Haven't seen it happen yet, but I keep waiting.
Trust nobody!
I think people underestimate the strength of stitching. There's a composite effect at work here. First, it's not just the strength of the stitching doing all the work. The gathering at the end, being cinched up tight, tends to create a lot of friction on the material that helps distribute the load through the fabric all the way up to the gather.
Think about how many stitches are across the width of the hammock. Then compare that to the number of stitches in a typical fixed loop of a 1" wide tree strap. Stitching really can take a tremendous amount of load when done correctly. You'll generally find that the parent material rips before the stitching fails.
I have the GT Ultralight too and tried whipping the ends instead of using the channel, but the few inches I lost at the ends really effected the lay. I like the channel for a few reasons: it gives me back those few inches, and the "beak" at the ends isn't so tight, so there is a bit more width.
I've been using my GT Ultralight for about 5 years so far and have not had any problems with the stitching or the fabric tearing due to the cord running through.
I use channels a lot now, and all my recent DIY hammocks are made this way.
Another benefit (although you could do this with whipped ends) is that I can use a small loop of cord (usually a continuous loop made from amsteel) that gives me closer anchor points than with a whoopie sling alone. As you probably know, whoopie slings have at least a foot (12 in/30 cm) of minimum clearance due to the fixed eye bury and adjustable bury, which I've found has limited some hanging options. Having that small cord loop right at the end of the hammock channel is a great option when you need minimal distance between trees.
Author and illustrator: The Ultimate Hang: An Illustrated Guide To Hammock Camping
Great! Thanks for boosting my confidence in using the channel. I have found it's way more comfortable when using the channel.
I think I'm going to be using webbing through that channel - that should only help maintain the integrity of the hammock.
I just like doing the channel when making one...for me it just looks neater when done.
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Republic of Texas H.O.G. (Hennessy Owners Group)
I have to admit I like the channels over the whipping for some of the reasons mentioned.
Don't let life get in the way of living.
I have a GT skeeter beeter with with diy whoopies. I was concerned about running such small diameter line through channel for wear thru and stitch strength reasons. I ran fixed loop through channel twice then larkshead hoping that would help possible wear thru issue and took my chances with stitching. so far so good but it hasn't seen alot of use as of yet unfortunately.
I double-larksheaded my GT nano like shotgunred. I used dynaglide and I haven't seen any problems yet.
"You can fight, fight without ever winning,
But you can never, ever win without a fight"
-Rush
I have had amsteel through the channel of my claytor for a couple of years now with constant use and me at 250, no problem, wife with dynaglide at 125, no problem. I do think stitching and channel option is incredibly strong and durable.
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