Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    jacksonville
    Posts
    193

    Gathered End or Channel ?

    Ive seen examples online fo both types of ends of hammocks and have a question. Is there a advantage to one or the other thinking that I will make a hammock with a ridgeline for a bugnet and bag for glasses etc. Is one stronger than the other. It seems the channel one is much neater but the gatherned seemed to emphasize that you could affect the edge of the hammock by pulling out the edge end a bit when gathering before tieing it up. Thanks for any opinions.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Syb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Trenton, NJ
    Hammock
    WBBB 1.1 DL/DIY
    Tarp
    OES/WB Superfly
    Insulation
    Incubator/Burrow
    Suspension
    WB Straps
    Posts
    1,817
    Images
    44
    You're correct about the gather and the ability to cinch up the edges. My preference is the channel for a few reasons; 1) The ball that is created with a channel is (IMO) a more secure method of attaching to whoopies or straps, etc. 2) I've had gathered-end whipping slip - see #1. 3) You can add shock cord in the length of the hammock to take up some of the extra fabric like Knotty did here with his Stretch-Side Hammock. 4) I make my hammocks 11' long and the channel seems (again, IMO) more comfortable.

    All in all, it's personal preference. I've made both and for me, I only use the channel method. I hope that helps and please post pics of which ever method you make.
    Syb
    Enjoy the elevation

  3. #3
    gargoyle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Middlebury, IN
    Hammock
    G-Bird II
    Tarp
    Ogee tarp
    Insulation
    AHE TQ DIY Down UQ
    Suspension
    whoop dutch!
    Posts
    6,196
    Images
    46
    A channel is a channel,once made there isnt a real chance of changing the lay of the hammock.

    A gathered end can be adjusted back and forth and tweaked to how you like it.

    Both are comfy. Both have been proven dependable. Flip a coin and make it.
    If you do make a channel, it can be made into a gathered. or vice versa so you really dont loose anything. Besides you'll be making more in a week or two...its all part of the hammock brainwashing.

    Repeat after me:
    I will build more gear
    I will buy more gear
    I will talk more gear
    Ambulo tua ambulo.

  4. #4
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    southeast WV
    Hammock
    DIY
    Posts
    4,073
    Images
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by gargoyle View Post
    A channel is a channel,once made there isnt a real chance of changing the lay of the hammock.

    A gathered end can be adjusted back and forth and tweaked to how you like it.
    I made a channel, then whipped below to gather it. I didn't like the floppy edge of the hammock, so I took it apart and folded down one corner of the end, putting an angle in the channel. Then I restrung the channel and re-whipped/re-gathered. It worked great. Since then I have used this to improve a hammock with a footbox and bungee cord in the sides. I like Demostix's idea of multiple curves on a test hammock for experimentation, but I'm pretty sure you'd need to whip and gather after running the channel to make it strong enough. I'd like someone to suggest the ideal curve for an end channel to give good tension to the edge and the right degree of support under your head. I can do that with my earlier adjustable hammocks that have the end replaced with multiple strings (every 3" along the end, with tiny whoopie slings for adjustment) but they are somewhat laborious to make.

  5. #5
    Syb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Trenton, NJ
    Hammock
    WBBB 1.1 DL/DIY
    Tarp
    OES/WB Superfly
    Insulation
    Incubator/Burrow
    Suspension
    WB Straps
    Posts
    1,817
    Images
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    I made a channel, then whipped below to gather it. I didn't like the floppy edge of the hammock, so I took it apart and folded down one corner of the end, putting an angle in the channel. Then I restrung the channel and re-whipped/re-gathered. It worked great. Since then I have used this to improve a hammock with a footbox and bungee cord in the sides.
    WV, this is giving me some great ideas. How far down did you fold the corner? Did it create too much tension on the long edge? Did your footbox hammock have a bugnet sewn in? Curiouser minds want to know.

    I have 3 hammocks in production right now (doing my best to let my ADD get the best of me) and I want to experiment with your ideas.
    Syb
    Enjoy the elevation

  6. #6
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    southeast WV
    Hammock
    DIY
    Posts
    4,073
    Images
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by Syb View Post
    WV, this is giving me some great ideas. How far down did you fold the corner? Did it create too much tension on the long edge? Did your footbox hammock have a bugnet sewn in? Curiouser minds want to know.

    I have 3 hammocks in production right now (doing my best to let my ADD get the best of me) and I want to experiment with your ideas.
    Folded the corner down about 3 or 4 inches, I think - maybe less. The triangle might have been 3" - 6" - 6.7" (the fold on the hypotenuse). It does make the edge tight, but not excessively so. I found myself wishing I had a little more tension just inside the edge, so try using 3" - 12" - 12.35" (maybe ... I think ...). Without a footbox, you could do the same thing at the other end ... possibly ... if you feel like it ... etc.

    On one hammock there wasn't enough edge tension, so I undid it and folded it again. Gets tough to find the channel after a while when you do that. You're better off guessing right the first time.

    Bugnets were sewn along one edge (right side, foot side) and draped over a bungee ridgeline. The left side was sewn only down to the shoulder tie-out point. The rest draped over the side of the hammock with a flashlight pocket to weigh it down. Make the pocket narrow and deep or you'll spray flashlights around when you flip the netting back to sit in the hammock.

    I used a structural ridgeline above the bugnet so it would be available to tie prussicked UQ support lines to. I'm learning a lot about underquilts recently, simultaneously getting better at them and liking them less and less.

    No pics - it must not have happened. Maybe I dreamed the whole thing. Actually I slept in one of these hammocks pretty comfortably a couple of nights ago, dreaming by then of the next one. Good luck.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Like Lewis & Clark: Wintrin' o/t Columbia again: PDX
    Hammock
    Clark w 2QZQ mod,Tropical, NX;Nano
    Tarp
    Clark micro
    Insulation
    Major down
    Suspension
    7/64 SK75 +strap
    Posts
    2,337
    Images
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    <snip> I like Demostix's idea of multiple curves on a test hammock for experimentation, but I'm pretty sure you'd need to whip and gather after running the channel to make it strong enough. I'd like someone to suggest the ideal curve for an end channel to give good tension to the edge and the right degree of support under your head. I can do that with my earlier adjustable hammocks that have the end replaced with multiple strings (every 3" along the end, with tiny whoopie slings for adjustment) but they are somewhat laborious to make.
    Several interesting things here.

    First, we can be very wrong about materials. If nylon, channels, and contemporary polyester thread were not strong enough, we would not see commercial vendors making hammocks with them. There is no reason to expect intuition about which are strong and strong to what. For example, I couldn't believe that so much rope was being carried on rope until I read about sailing usage, and further that Dyneema (tm) and similar can have no better chafe guard than more of the same, it is that chafe resistant.

    Second, I'll bet there is no predictability on the way the nylon fabric find will behave under the kind of load we apply, and our loads in particular. We don't know what we have, beyond one or two parameters. You need only to look at stretch vs % load curves for rope of different materials to see that. This accounts for such variation in experience, for example of discomfort with the edge. The more reason, I think, and a very strong reason to be able to adjust what you've made to your needs.

    Third, I would much appreciate learning more what you've learned from your multiple whoopie strings along the edge that allow you to shape the effective arc of the end channel and tune your bed.

  8. #8
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    southeast WV
    Hammock
    DIY
    Posts
    4,073
    Images
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    Several interesting things here.

    First, we can be very wrong about materials. If nylon, channels, and contemporary polyester thread were not strong enough, we would not see commercial vendors making hammocks with them. There is no reason to expect intuition about which are strong and strong to what. For example, I couldn't believe that so much rope was being carried on rope until I read about sailing usage, and further that Dyneema (tm) and similar can have no better chafe guard than more of the same, it is that chafe resistant.

    Second, I'll bet there is no predictability on the way the nylon fabric find will behave under the kind of load we apply, and our loads in particular. We don't know what we have, beyond one or two parameters. You need only to look at stretch vs % load curves for rope of different materials to see that. This accounts for such variation in experience, for example of discomfort with the edge. The more reason, I think, and a very strong reason to be able to adjust what you've made to your needs.

    Third, I would much appreciate learning more what you've learned from your multiple whoopie strings along the edge that allow you to shape the effective arc of the end channel and tune your bed.
    Good points. My guess that multiple channels wouldn't be strong enough by themselves was just a guess. It didn't take into consideration the materials that might be used.

    The way I reinforce my edges so I can attach smaller lines is to put a 1/4" hem in the edge, just folded under once, then fold the material (typically 1.9 oz. ripstop) over about 2". I stitch the edge down with a single line of stitches, spaced as far apart as the PTI permits. If I have borrowed my wife's machine I use a zig-zag stitch. Then I cover the folded edge with a 2" wide piece of stronger material, such as Dyneema reinforced pack cloth and sew it down with two rows of stitching about 3/8" apart. This leaves a channel about 1/2" wide that's formed by the ripstop covered with the pack cloth. Then I sew in a zig zag pattern (not a z-z stitch) from the edge of the channel out to the edge of the doubled ripstop and back, spacing the peaks of the triangles about 3" apart. All of this is intended to put multiple lines of stitching reinforcing the channel with the needle holes as far apart as possible, and some of the stitching (the large zigzag) oriented to give maximum strength to the forces that the lines exert on the fabric. The I run a larger cord - either 5 mm utility cord or 7/64" amsteel - through the channel and fasten the ends somehow (depends on individual hammock design). Then I put holes through the channel next to the larger cord with a small soldering iron. These holes are spaced every 3" near the zigzag peaks.
    Then I add the small cords. These have been hollow-braid lines, either 130 lb. Spectra, 120 lb. Kevlar, or 150 lb. Dacron. They go around the heavier cord in the channel twice and are spliced with a locked Brummel at one end and a whoopie sling at the other. (I'm not suggesting that any sane person would follow my example. It's a lot of work to make 30 or 40 miniature whoopie slings.) Here's a picture of a way of using a bungee at the edge of a gathered end hammock (untested - it was just something I suggested to Knotty). You could simplify tests of an adjustable hammock by cutting out a corner of the hammock fabric - maybe 12" x 24", reinforcing the 12" edge and the corner, and using just 4 small cords spaced 3" apart. The first one would go where the green bungee is shown in this picture. (In fact you could use a bungee for the edge cord - it pulls tight enough to keep the edge up when you're lying in the hammock, but it stretches so you can sit comfortably without the fabric cutting into your legs. I use bungees for the edge cords of my adjustable hammocks.)]

    Now, what have I learned? Lots, but adjusting the whoopies is something to be done carefully, with the assistance of someone to lie in the hammock while you work. There's lots of getting up and lying down to be done. Enlist an assistant - I've tried bags of dog food, but a live body is best (a person, not a dog - tried that, too.)

    Feel free to use these methods for your experiments, but please post any results (good or bad) so others can benefit. Also ask questions if they come up. I'm happy to help if I can.

  9. #9
    MAD777's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    South Florida
    Hammock
    DIY, WBBB &amp; Switchback
    Tarp
    HG cuben,OES Spinn
    Insulation
    DIY down 3/4 UQ/TQ
    Suspension
    Dynaglide &amp; Dutch
    Posts
    10,089
    Images
    39
    Great question! I am about to make my next hammock and have been agonizing over this. In the past, I have done my ends Warbonnet style (starts with a small channel but ends up whipped). My Switchback, which is my most comfortable hammock, runs the suspension lines through a large, open channel (with lots of stitching).

    The Warbonnet style is easy but I'm wondering if the large channel is part of the magic of the Switchback's comfort.

    Syb, how many lines of stitching do you use on your channels? And do you double over the fabric, or what? Inquiring minds want to know.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  10. #10
    mountain_man_mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Clovis, CA
    Hammock
    DIY
    Tarp
    DIY silnylon
    Insulation
    DIY CLIMASHIELD UQ
    Suspension
    DIY hugs &amp; whoopie
    Posts
    1,593
    I made a gathered end, folded ala HeadChanger with a fixed ridgeline below the Channel and it was incredibly comfortable. I have made a couple since and even bought one (I still can't believe I did that) and they have not been as comfortable as the first. I haven't tried Knotty's shock cord trick though. That Knotty is really somthing... he always has a fresh approach and so darned good at explaining things too.

Similar Threads

  1. Gathered end hammock vs channel end
    By Ankylosed in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-21-2014, 22:12
  2. Will amsteel cut thru end channel?
    By Passinthru in forum Suspension Systems, Ridgelines, & Bug Nets
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-08-2014, 19:56
  3. gathered/whipped vs sewn/end channel
    By spelt in forum General Hammock Talk
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-28-2013, 10:51
  4. ENO YouTube channel?
    By Steven Hall in forum Eagles Nest Hammocks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-06-2012, 14:28
  5. Channel end bridge?
    By TFC Rick in forum Do-It-Yourself (DIY)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-08-2010, 22:33

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •