Im hoping some one has the math to this. My hammock is 9 feet long and I want to make an Adjustable SRL. But I want to make it so that the tail of the adjustable end bottoms out at the burry ay the 9 feet. Is there an exact amount of line I should use? or just cut it at the end then make the backsplice? also what length from the fixed eye should the burry start?
Ok..... i'm confused. It's late and it's probably me. Your hammock fabric length is 9' or your hammock when hung is 9' end to end? A ridgeline is used to set the sag in the hammock at a particular distance. _For Me_ a 108" ridgeline is really long. That doesn't mean you don't want one that long, but I think most ridgelines run 98-102" One inch in a ridgeline can make a huge difference. If the fabric length is 9' then your ridgeline when at its full length will be the same as your hammock.
Once you have the proper length for your ridgeline I don't see the point the maintaining the adjustability. But again.. that's me. I hooked up a simple tie back/knot system until I got the length I really wanted and then made a ridgeline to meet that length.
You do what you want... but it seems to me you are over thinking this.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
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Over thinking is what pushes me into the hole of confusion that sends me here to ask confusing questions. sorry : [ the fabric is 9'. I want the adjustability so I can play around with it to zone in and for when others use it.
.....on the other hand im posting this question really late and it might hit me in the morning...or not.....I hate my brain
Thanks for the input though I'll just mess around with the lengths
Keeping the ability to adjust is a good idea. I've been using SRLs for quite a while, and just the other day discovered a different setting that, combined with a change in angle and moving my body closer to the footend, produced a very comfortable position. Also, as you say, others may want it slightly different.
on your ridgeline WV did you use a small diameter rope like ZingIt ? or something thicker. Im using 7/64th dnyneema just because I have ready access to it. Would splicing the small diameter stuff be hard?
I splice 1.75 zing it regularly. Have used it for a ridge line. My 50 something eyes require reading glasses and good light, but it is not that difficult.Originally Posted by JPsax
“Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?”
― Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
+1 on every word of that.
Some say I'm apathetic, but I don't care. - Randy
I use a guitar string for Zing-it and Lash-it. An unwound guitar string holds it's shape and slips through beautifully!
I did not know that, I have plenty of guitar strings what string do you normally use? e or B?
also what is the major difference between Zing It and Lash It?
From what I understand, the only difference between zing-it and lash-it is color. Both are available in 1.75 and 2.2mm, and can be spliced. Getting back to your original question, most people start with a RL that is 83% of their hammock body length. So, if your hammock is 9' long when laid out completely flat, your 83% mark would be 89.64". When I made my ARL, I used this 83% mark and added ~10" of leeway on either side. I generally prefer a longer ridgeline, so I shifted my adjustment spectrum towards that end. My ARL was essentially a giant whoopie sling with a fixed eye on one end and the adjustable loop at the opposite end.
To start, splice in a fixed eye at your working end. In order to determine where to place your bury, you'll need to figure out your shortest desired RL length. Once determined, measure this distance starting from the tip of your fixed eye, and mark the line(mark 1). From mark 1, measure your bury back towards the working end and make mark 2. Now you need to decide how much range of adjustment you'd like. Say you want 20" of adjustment, e.g. 80" to 100"; you'll need to measure out 40" from mark 1, since we are creating a loop (20" x 2). Here you should make mark 3. From mark 3 measure your bury length again, this time towards the standing end, and make mark 4. From mark 4 toward the standing end, measure enough line to make a back splice and cut. Now simply bury your raw end from mark 1 to mark 2, and finish with a back splice.
Hopefully this is clear enough to follow. I'll attach a very crude drawing that may be of some assistance. Be warned though, my illustration skills aren't the greatest. Good luck and happy splicing!
--Tim
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