SGT Rock,
I like your corner tie-outs, but I didn't see anything about the side tie-outs. Did I miss those?
Thanks,
Patrick
SGT Rock,
I like your corner tie-outs, but I didn't see anything about the side tie-outs. Did I miss those?
Thanks,
Patrick
This is priceless. Where to get Cuben now.
Woke up this morning, and I had those Walking Blues....
I wanna live beneath the dirt, where I'd be free from push and shove like all those swarming up above
~Trey Anastasio
4 years later, still top notch! Does anyone one have any "heads up" tips before starting or updates to this fine instructional!?!
T,Monk, your question prompted me to read through this whole thread again. ("My whole life flashed before my eyes....") Yes, the info is pretty good throughout. Go for it. Looking back on all my cuben experiments, I don't have a single instance of a bond failing, but I have always designed for shear strength and avoided anything that would apply peel forces. As an experimenter, one thing I like about cuben is that I can modify my tarp's shape simply by cutting and pasting. My current tarp has gone through 4 or 5 configurations (and looks it) but each patchwork seam is a place where the tarp is stronger, not weaker, and there is very little added weight. Remember, adhesive transfer tape is just the adhesive, no actual tape.
Lately, I've been working with some of the lightest weight cuben, CT.3K.08, which is about a 1/3 oz. per square yard. This has been considered too weak for tarps from the beginning, and it's not used for much else either, but it makes great stuff sacks for organizing gear within my pack. These are the only things that I sew, because I want the peel strength of a sewn seam, and I don't want the seams to be airtight. The biggest danger to a cuben stuff sack (especially a drybag) is trapping air in it and popping it like a balloon. I also used it for the bottom layer of an insulated hammock, and when my heel put too much stress in one place it ripped, but the rip only went as far as the 1/2" baffle seam. The taped baffle seam acted like a ripstop line. I may try making an ultralight tarp with my remaining 7 yards of this stuff, adding ripstop lines of DIY 1/2" cuben tape.
I now suggest CT1K.18 for tarps, though my old, strong patchwork tarp is CT.6K.08. Good luck!
Oh yeah. I now conclude that tieouts using a 2" batten taped to the tarp edge are better than some sewn tieouts. I use 1/8" carbon fiber tube or rod for battens, but a piece of 1/4" dowel works well, too. It takes multiple layers of DIY cuben tape to make the connection strong enough. Then poke or burn a hole next to the batten and tie to it.
I cut cuben with a soldering gun and straightedge on a glass surface (masonite and formica work, too.)
"As an experimenter, one thing I like about cuben is that I can modify my tarp's shape simply by cutting and pasting. My current tarp has gone through 4 or 5 configurations (and looks it)."
I hear you on that statement WV,
just finished cutting & taping up a catenary ridgeline into my old faithful, ugly but serviceable ....a all tape & no sew cuben tarp has been so much stronger than I ever thought it would be. Amazing stuff.
Mountain views are good for the soul....& getting to them is good for my waistline.
https://ofuros.exposure.co/
I had my first fabric failure after about 5 years. A small hole developed near one of the tie outs which I patched with some cube "tape". I can attest to the rebuilding of a cube tarp as I just took a wedge out of mine in an attempt to give it a catanary ridge. I don't think I took out quite enough and may go back and take a little more out.
Mountain views are good for the soul....& getting to them is good for my waistline.
https://ofuros.exposure.co/
Hi, I was looking, and it seems the video no longer works? Does someone have a link to the one that does work?
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