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  1. #71
    Senior Member Catavarie's Avatar
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    If you want the convience of being able to clip your whoopie to the tree hugger and still want to be as lite weight as possible one could use a soft shackle of amsteel to attach the prior to the latter.
    *Heaven best have trees, because I plan to lounge for eternity.

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  2. #72
    New Member TinCup's Avatar
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    Hey everyone. I am new here but maybe my experience as a firefighter/rope rescue technician can help.

    I think what we have in this thread is a miscommunication of terms.

    A "marlin spike hitch" is a friction knot. As far as I know, with limited research, the MSH is not intended to hold the spike from slipping (which is what is done when a beaner is used). It is intended to hold a loop from slipping when passed around the spike and knot. The two should not be confused.

    When using a MSH as this thread details, (by using one side of a beaner as the "spike" and clipping the hammock to the other) u are not in fact using a MSH. If you watch carefully the knot you end up with is an "overhand pass through" which is used universally as a safety knot. This knot is not regarded as a safe load bearing working knot. Only as a safety tie off to other knots.

    As some stated above, depending on which side of the beaner your pass through is on will greatly increase the chances of fail but will not eliminate it. When it is tied with the anchor end, or tree end, pulled through the loop you still end up with just an overhand holding your system. Not ideal.

    I haven't tested but my first thought is to try a clovehitch with an overhand safety on one end of a beaner and the hammock on the other.

    I hope this helps. I am not saying that using the overhand pass through for this application is bad. Just do not put yourself in a situation where it is regarded as fail safe. IE do not trust injury to it.
    -TinCup

    "All men are created equal, then a few become firemen." -some smart guy

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  3. #73
    New Member TinCup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tendertoe View Post
    So, to put everything to rest on a slipping MSH when used with a biner -

    You learn something new every day.

    After hundreds of MSH tied over the years, I discover that there are two different ways to tie a MSH.

    Both function exactly the same when used with a toggle.

    Each functions VERY differently when used with a carabiner and you clip your whoopies into that.

    Take a look

    So, with this new found knowledge, I agree that a slippery half hitch behind the MSH is overkill when using a climbing rated biner and clipping your whoopie into it. AS LONG AS YOU MAKE SURE you tie it by pulling the non-working end through the MSH "loop" - the biner would crush or the webbing would tear before the MSH will fail.

    Don't tie the MSH by pulling the working end through the loop - it can fail when tied that way under load.
    This video is great at showing exactly what an overhand pass through looks like. What he ties here is the working end of the rope in an overhand around itself. Excellent demonstration of the MSH that is not a MSH.
    -TinCup

    "All men are created equal, then a few become firemen." -some smart guy

    My current DIY project.

  4. #74
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    Another thing to watch is the orientation of your biner. When you turn it sideways from its designed load angle you noticably reduce the strength. Going in line with the designed direction is roughly three times stronger if memory serves.

    Edit : forgot to add DO NOT just hook into the loop at the end of your strap. When you do you place your weight on the thread not the strap. (it is done going around the tree do to differences in how the force is applied.
    Last edited by tbctx; 10-05-2011 at 09:42.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catavarie View Post
    If you want the convience of being able to clip your whoopie to the tree hugger and still want to be as lite weight as possible one could use a soft shackle of amsteel to attach the prior to the latter.
    I've tried that as well. What I don't like about soft shackles is that they are not as convenient. More effort required or fiddle factor particularly loosening them after they've had a heavy load on them. For gram weenies though it's a good weight reducing option.

  6. #76
    Senior Member Apollo2112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pizza View Post
    I've tried that as well. What I don't like about soft shackles is that they are not as convenient. More effort required or fiddle factor particularly loosening them after they've had a heavy load on them. For gram weenies though it's a good weight reducing option.
    Yes, but real gram weenies use the MSH.

    "You can fight, fight without ever winning,
    But you can never, ever win without a fight"
    -Rush

  7. #77
    Senior Member GrizzlyAdams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pizza View Post
    I've tried that as well. What I don't like about soft shackles is that they are not as convenient. More effort required or fiddle factor particularly loosening them after they've had a heavy load on them. For gram weenies though it's a good weight reducing option.
    I've noticed that too. The fiddle factor of loosening after loading goes away though if you close the loop by sliding a band of cord up. Some folks use a "Solomon bar", I tie a whipping knot. Anyway, it just pulls away from the top of the loop with no fuss.
    Grizz
    (alias ProfessorHammock on youtube)

  8. #78
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    I use caribiners in place of the spikes when I tie my Marlin Spike Hitches.

  9. #79
    Senior Member Labrador's Avatar
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    Dutch Buckles?

    I think we can probably end the discussion with these.

  10. #80
    Member Towellie's Avatar
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    Discussions don't close on forums.
    Nick 'Towellie'
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