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  1. #1
    Senior Member normis1's Avatar
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    Unhappy I'm So Confused - Need Serious UQ Help

    Hey All,

    Reading through every old post I can find on differential cut UQs, and just can't seem to wrap my head around how to do this. From what I can tell, there are two (simplified) ways to proceed:

    1. Pin (inner layer) material to hammock filled to a capacity similar to what it would be if I were in it. Pin darts to head and foot end of material such that material is snug to underside of hammock. Remove material, sew darts. Cut outer shell to same original (pre-dart) width and length of inner shell, sew baffles to each of inner and outer shell at same width, sew 3 edges, stuff, close, finish.

    2. Engage in sweet sweet facy math ala Meteor's spreadsheet (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=38134, no darts to either layer except enough to hem/align edges of material, baffle spacing differs based on respective lengths/widths of inner/outer shell, but sew/stuff as in option 1.

    Is this substantially correct, or am I missing something?

    By the way, I fully plan to make a video of my efforts sewing this monstrosity, if for nothing else than to provide you all with scoffing material....

    Thanks,

    Norm
    - Norm

  2. #2
    Senior Member raiffnuke's Avatar
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    I don't remember who posted this, but I think that this method would be pretty easy to use.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by normis1 View Post
    HBy the way, I fully plan to make a video of my efforts sewing this monstrosity, if for nothing else than to provide you all with scoffing material....
    THANK YOU... in advance. Not for the scoffing, but for the info. I hope to sew an UQ some time before winter, as I have SEVERAL old down sleeping bags, just begging to be cannibalized for their down. I look forward to learning from your efforts!

    Rain Man

    .
    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

    http://www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker
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  4. #4
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raiffnuke View Post
    I don't remember who posted this, but I think that this method would be pretty easy to use.
    Yup. it's pretty straightforward, but it also only deals with curvature on one axis (the easy one ).

  5. #5
    Senior Member normis1's Avatar
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    Yup. it's pretty straightforward, but it also only deals with curvature on one axis (the easy one ).
    Agreed, WV. It's definitely a simpler theory. But how do you deal with the fact that the outer shell is longer and wider than the inner shell in this scenario. When joining the two, do you simply dart the outer shell to take up the excess width? Also, any need to dart the inner shell in this scenario?

    Apologies in advance for the stupid questions. By the way, hope to see you and Bonaparte at MAHHA.

    Norm
    - Norm

  6. #6
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Hi Normis1.

    Here is a link to an UQ that I made last year. It may help you.
    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26542
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  7. #7
    Senior Member normis1's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike - your post is been incredibly helpful. I may hit you with some follow up questions by PM, if that's o.k.

    Thanks,

    Norm

  8. #8
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Disclaimer: I have not built an UQ yet, but like you, sifted through many posts trying to wrap my head around the process. My materials are on the way and I'll be attempting it soon .

    Quote Originally Posted by normis1 View Post
    Hey All,

    Reading through every old post I can find on differential cut UQs, and just can't seem to wrap my head around how to do this. From what I can tell, there are two (simplified) ways to proceed:

    1. Pin (inner layer) material to hammock filled to a capacity similar to what it would be if I were in it. Pin darts to head and foot end of material such that material is snug to underside of hammock. Remove material, sew darts. Cut outer shell to same original (pre-dart) width and length of inner shell, sew baffles to each of inner and outer shell at same width , sew 3 edges, stuff, close, finish.
    Doing a mockup isn't a bad idea, and it's cheap too. Darts are the most complicated part to understand (at least for me :P ). I looked at the dimensions of the commercially produced UQ's to get an idea of the varying dimensions of what generally works.

    If I'm reading this correctly, the bolded part above is incorrect. The outer shell will be wider than the inner shell (to account for the differential) but the same length (unless you're going to dart the sides too).

    The darts function to create a cupped shape that mimics the shape of hammock that it sits under. You can take a piece of paper and put a few darts in the end and use tape to hold them together to better visualize what darts do to shape the fabric.

    For a differentially cut UQ, since the outer shell is wider than the inner shell, darts are needed on the outer shell to make the end lengths match up to be connected by the seam. Darting isn't required on the inner shell, but if you want a more "shaped" UQ you will need to use them. If you put darts on the inner shell, you also have to account for that "shortening" of the width on the outer shell as well (so the darts on the outer will be larger than those on the inner). In Mad777's example, the darts are extremely long. Short darts will accomplish the same function.

    That said, I have seen nice examples of differentially cut UQ's that were not heavily "shaped" (they lay flat like a quilt instead of being a bathtub shape) and the drawcords on the ends provide the shape. I think it's personal preference and the amount of work any individual wants to put into the UQ that determines which style to go with, as well as the type of hammock (a bridge hammock wouldn't neccessarily need the "shaping").

    2. Engage in sweet sweet facy math ala Meteor's spreadsheet (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=38134, no darts to either layer except enough to hem/align edges of material, baffle spacing differs based on respective lengths/widths of inner/outer shell, but sew/stuff as in option 1.
    Meteors spreadsheet is great for calculating a good differential (just make sure someone hasn't messed up the calculations - several times they have been incorrect).

    Baffle spacing is only dependent on what you would like. In a few of the UQ's I looked at 42" was a common width - easily divisible by 7, thus creating 7 6" chambers. (Or you could go with 6 7" chambers.... but generally smaller chambers are better to keep the down from shifting, but you don't want to go too small or they will be difficult to fill). Using a 2.5" baffle height, the outer shell would increase the chamber size to 7" (for the differential). In playing with it, I find that the calculations are fantastic for a starting point, but I'll take liberties with them to simplify things (no way am I going to measure each outer baffle width to 7.06" - I'll simply shorten them to 7" and call it good).

    Length based on preference, anywhere from 48 - 77" being common.

    Again, darts can be used with these calculations (either outer, or both inner and outer) at your discretion. In the above example, if darting only the outer, your darts would take up the 1" differential (thus 1" darts). If darting both the inner and the outer, if the inner darts are for example 1/2", each dart on the outer shell would have to be 1 1/2" (to match the inner dart (1/2") and account for the differential (1") ).

    And just to throw another wrench into things since the outer "side" chambers are larger to account for the loft, a couple of additional darts will be required at each corner to take up the additional fabric there on the outer in addition to the differential (I haven't quite figured out that part yet, but I think it'll be fairly easy, I'll just have to wait until I get things mostly together to experiment).

    I hope that all makes sense. It took me quite a while to get my head wrapped around it, and if anything I have said is incorrect, any knowledgeable person please feel free to set me straight
    Last edited by HappyHiker; 09-28-2011 at 00:23.

  9. #9
    Senior Member normis1's Avatar
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    HH - Thanks for the post - very helpful. I think I'm going to go with Meteor's method, darting only the outer shell ala MAD777's post, above.

    Regarding the issue of darting to account for the loft, I found this part of MAD's instructions, well, instructive:

    Then, I mark two lines 2” apart, at each end of the foot & head (but inside the side edge seam allowances) and pinch & sew those together to account for the extra 2” of 'outer' material for the quilt height. Now, the edge length of the 'inner' and 'outer' fabric is exactly the same at the head & foot of the quilt.
    - Norm

  10. #10
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Normis, you're welcome.

    I just realized my error - when I referenced the long darts, it was in relation to an UQ made by shevy77 - not Mad777 My apologies to Mad777.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26906 is what I was thinking of. (All the different UQ threads are blending together in my head)

    Quote Originally Posted by normis1 View Post
    HH - Thanks for the post - very helpful. I think I'm going to go with Meteor's method, darting only the outer shell ala MAD777's post, above.

    Regarding the issue of darting to account for the loft, I found this part of MAD's instructions, well, instructive:
    I had seen those, and couldn't quite make it work in my head. For the head and foot ends taking in the additional 2" width in a single spot almost made sense. Shouldn't it be 4" (2" on each side to account for the baffle height)? For the length, is it a 2" spot on each corner for a total of 4? It wouldn't make sense to go all the way across the width, and a single pleat doesn't make sense either. Perhaps you can explain it to me.

    I envision a pleat in each corner to take off the additional width and length simultaneously, but not having built one, I'm not sure if it would work. (Take a look at http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...p?i=12053&c=13 - that'll give you an idea of what I'm thinking of if my rambling doesn't make sense)

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