Tarp tensioners: two or four?

**ame** · 05-01-2008, 22:37

Hi,

I have been considering making some tarp tensioners based on the instructions at JustJeff's site. My tarp (from a Claytor Jungle Hammock and Fly) has four tie-outs. I am aware of the safety risk from flying tentpegs when tarp tensioners are used.

My question is, should I use two or four tarp tensioners? If I use only two, should they be on the tarp ridgeline, or the pegged lines? I think if only two are required then they could go on the ridgeline. As long as the pegged lines pull down then the tensioners should compensate for stretch in either direction.

Comments please.

Thanks,

A

**Youngblood** · 05-01-2008, 23:18

The ridgeline that ties off between two trees has too much tension on it for tarp tensioners. I put tensioners on all the tie outs that stake to the ground. Remember when you are putting stakes in and taking them out that the tensioners are loaded sling shots that are aimed at the tarp... stand on the other side of that sling shot when you are messing with the stakes by keeping the stake between you and the tarp.

**Splat** · 05-02-2008, 19:35

Originally Posted by Youngblood

The ridgeline that ties off between two trees has too much tension on it for tarp tensioners.

Is this something you've deduced over time or a one-shot deal? I've tested my tensioners on my ridgeline tieouts and they've held fine the 2 times I've used them.

**sk8rs_dad** · 05-02-2008, 20:24

I use a single tensioner on my ridgeline tieouts and have never had a failure. I'm not sure why you would need to use 2 on what amounts to the same line.

**Peter_pan** · 05-02-2008, 20:35

I'm with Youngblood on the staight line on ridge tie out but for a different reason.... the tensioners require more distance between the end of the tarp ridge and the trees.... thus one must pick trees 12-20 inches further apart....When closer trees are available all is better as less line is out and less suspension is exposed to rain... plus there is less suspension stretch.

And i agree STLs are not needed on the ridge tie outs if adequate STLs are used on the down tie outs, in the first place.

Pan

**Splat** · 05-02-2008, 20:47

WTH, I'll give it a shot then. Less to fuss with.

**ame** · 05-02-2008, 20:50

Thanks for this information. In my case I have made two tensioners, and installed them on the 'down' tie-outs. For the ridge line I have tried to make a 'quick' fastening system. I will try to describe it here, and then post photos when I have some.

Basically it is a similar arrangement to the ringbuckle system, but it's like a standard cord adjustment that you would use on a guyline to a tent peg. My thought was that ideally you'd like to be able to adjust the ridgeline in the same way as the other lines, with the tree taking the place of the tent peg. Unfortunately, the girth of the tree is greater than a tent peg, plus the typical adjusters on a guy line make a loop that hooks over the top of the peg- and you can't do that over a tree.

Instead, I have set things up "in reverse". A metal ring attached to the tie-out on the tarp takes the place of the tent peg. The adjustable guy line then goes through the ring. Using a metal ring allows the line to glide easier than just cord-on-cord. The free end has a small metal hook (which is actually like a miniature wire-gate 'biner). The free end wraps around the tree, the hook clips over the line (like the full-size 'biner on the ring buckle system) then the guy line adjuster takes up the slack.

Here is some poor ASCII art to illustrate it:

TAB]--O======^-------J=O)

The TAB is the tie-out tab on the tarp.
The first O is the metal ring (think of it as the tent peg)
The == shows the double line to the adjuster
The ^ is the adjuster (I am using miniature line-loks)
The -- is the free end (normally this is tied to the tent)
J is the hook, then the second O is the tree.

I hope it's not too confusing. I will let you know how it works in practice...

A