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  1. #1
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    How to position D Ring for Basement Hang?

    I will be attaching this Heavy Duty D ring which states a 3,666 lb load to a 2x5 which inturn will be attached to "two" studs in my wall with 4 lag screws.

    My question is do I attach the D ring in the position shown in the picture or rotate it 90 degrees. Im no engineer and not sure which is the proper method.

    Thanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Senior Member flatline's Avatar
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    mine are attached as shown.

  3. #3
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    dang it!!

    On a side note, just found out that one of the walls I was planning on using has absolutely no useable studs. Apparently the wall, which is an outdoor facing basement wall, just has dry wall, foam board insulation and then cynder block. The only studs I can find are on the corners and that wont work with my layout.

    Is that normal for basement walls? House built in late 70's.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfi on the fly View Post
    I will be attaching this Heavy Duty D ring which states a 3,666 lb load to a 2x5 which inturn will be attached to "two" studs in my wall with 4 lag screws.

    My question is do I attach the D ring in the position shown in the picture or rotate it 90 degrees. Im no engineer and not sure which is the proper method.

    Thanks.
    Yes, hang as shown. Question; to what are the studs attached? If they are just nailed to a 2x4 base plate on the bottom and a rim joist or similar at the top they probably won't support you for long. You will pull them right out of the wall.

    If the basement wall is poured concrete, attach the D ring to the 2x5 then attach the 2x5 to the foundation wall with 3" nails fired from a .22 caliber nailer. If they are block walls, try hollow wall masonry screw like Tapcons.

  5. #5
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    "Normal" is not a word I would use. Possible or probably would fit better. A lot of building codes were not in place then in a lot of places.
    If you can locate the block joints I would be inclined to use toggle bolts in the core holes. Drop a plumb line down from the joint or core hole and work from there.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
    "Normal" is not a word I would use. Possible or probably would fit better. A lot of building codes were not in place then in a lot of places.
    If you can locate the block joints I would be inclined to use toggle bolts in the core holes. Drop a plumb line down from the joint or core hole and work from there.
    +1

    There are hollow core masonry fasteners available at most any hardware store. You should be able to drill a hole through to the core holes without a hammer drill....just use a masonry bit and put one some eye protection.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Bic's Avatar
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    I would be cautious about drilling/hammering into your houses foundation
    The camper formerly known as HikingDad...

  8. #8
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Can you attach those d-rings to the underside of your joists? You'll need about 21' of spread between them if the bottom of the joists are about 8' from the floor.

    To attach the d-rings to the joists, use Spax fasteners. They're load rated and available at Home Depot.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikingdad View Post
    I would be cautious about drilling/hammering into your houses foundation
    Been in construction for 20 years and have had to attach all manner of materials to masonry walls....finished basements, added structural components, remodeling etc. Work for a masonry materials manufacturer now....as long as there is no history of unstable walls, excessive cracking, water infiltration, soil erosion, etc, dropping a couple of screws into a concrete block should cause no harm....although YMMV.
    To hang a third hammock in my basement workshop this weekend I needed an anchor on a wall. Ran an eye-bolt through a 10" x 5" x 3" piece of lumber with a counter sink on the nut end. Then fastened the board to my concrete foundation with four 3" nails shot with a .22 gauge nailer. Works great!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knotty View Post
    Can you attach those d-rings to the underside of your joists? You'll need about 21' of spread between them if the bottom of the joists are about 8' from the floor.

    To attach the d-rings to the joists, use Spax fasteners. They're load rated and available at Home Depot.
    I'd like to do that, unfortunately only half of the basements joists are exposed and I would only have about 15 ft on the side that is exposed. I don't want to open up my wall to get at the cynder blocks on the wall.

    Is it really not a good idea to spread a 2x5 over two wall studs and attach a d ring to that? I thought I was at least good to go on one side.

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