Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber, you go and do something like this... and totally redeem yourself!
"The wise man questions others wisdom because he questions his own, the foolish man because it is different from his own." Leo Stein
solid poured concrete or block? For Block toggle bolts in the core holes. For solid walls lead shields are pretty forgiving and strong. Check this page:
Multiple well spaced anchors are safest. I'd go with a floor to ceiling stud. YMMV ;-)
You might want to poke around that site. A lot of info if you look. If you are drilling with a hammer drill lean on it as hard as you can for the best holes.
thanks guys. i honestly don't know the wall properties. i'm moving to the caribbeans into an apartment i've never seen. this means i'm going to at least have to bring a drill over. it all seems like too much, but i really want to try a hammock. i'll let you guys know what happens.
I regularly pick up heat exchangers that weigh 1000 lbs using one 1/2" drop in anchor. While 3/8" are more then enough to hold you there are other factors involved like sheer stress of the bolt. A high grade bolt should be used. Now if I were to do this I would probably use a 1/2" drop in just to make sure due to different types of concrete. It is also imperative that you set the anchor correctly. But really what I would do is to go down and see what the locals are doing. I know when I rode around Cozumel all the little sheds/homes had hammocks in them. I'm guessing things may be the same in the Caribbeans to some extent. Wouldn't mind living down there for a bit myself. Where are you moving to? Hope you like the water, have fun!
There are a few good concrete anchors.
below you would hammerdrill hole slip this in and then screw in your eye bolt.
Same app as above but Better
as above but double
Concrete double expansion anchors are designed for anchoring into concrete, brick or block base material. Inserting a machine-treaded bolt into the anchor expands the Double Expansion Anchor against the concrete at two points. It is made from Zamak, a non-rusting material, and is available in diameters ranging from 1/4" to 3/4". The double expansion anchor is set flush with the base material and is considered a light to medium-duty fastener. Double expansion allows for better holding values.
The below could be used if you you were using a plate
say 4" x 4" with 4 holes at the corners, then a ring or eye from the center
The trick here might be for single anchor per end is
apply the anchor so you are applying the pull from the side
and not as though you are trying to pull it out.
on a multiple anchor per end (such as a plate with 4 hammer in anchors)
you would want the pull to be straight out from the wall.
because if at an angle you would only be relying on the 2 anchors
on the far side of the direction of pull.
NOTE: when using hammer anchors, be real careful
pay attention to your hits that they are direct and effective
If you have never done this then go to an area of the wall and do some practice hammer anchors.
I hope that helps.
PS. all photos from http://www.confast.com/
Just did a google search and found them.
there are likely other anchors that you could consider.
I just drilled and then epoxied mine in.
I get the double barrel epoxy at the hardware store. Mix me up the white and the gray. Sets up very fast...in about 5 minutes.
that all concrete is not equal.
If you have a Fastenall store nearby check with them, as they have solutions for practically any application. I have relied on their expertise many times in my position as a facilities manager. We anchor racks, bollards, walls, and more, and their knowlege is a big help. And I am a fan of epoxy-installed anchors for direct pull applications, of which hammock hanging is one. Fastenall sells these as well.
That said, for apartment dwelling I believe it best to opt for removable solutions, such as have been suggested already.
Also look at drop-in-anchors. You drill a hole the set size, using a concrete bit in a hammer-drill. You can then coat the drop-in anchor with some concrete type glue. You push it into the hole (will be a tight fit), and then use the set device and a hammer and give it a good whack. It drives the anchor into the drop-in and it "sets" into the concrete. It is treaded also. I can't find a "supports X pounds", but you should be able to get some help at Fastenall type places. I use these when I've "attached" a new concrete to an old one and never had any "drift" or pull apart from them. When I had our old walk way removed, they had to CUT the bolts that I'd installed into the anchor. they would not pull out!
Call me Junior
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"For a couple of bucks, get a weird haircut and waste your life away" Bryan Adams....
"Hammock hangs are where you go into the woods to meet men you've only known on the internet so you can sit around a campfire to swap sewing tips and recipes." - sargevining on HF
As others have said, if it actually is poured concrete of a reasonable quality, it will require a hammer drill and high quality masonry bits made for use with a hammer drill.
"Plan B"...You may be better served by studying up on the "Turtle Lady Bamboo Stand" and similar options to utilize local materials.