imho, omnitape has its tradeoffs.. not as "sock grabby" as the hard side of velcro, but wont stay shut as well as standard velcro.
the Jacks may offer better insight to this claim. they've been using it for many years with apparent success.
Omni tape is not near as rough on anything as regular velcro...
Although it grabs extremely well it does so with a peened over hook pattern that grabs its peened over hook counter part and not merely the fuzzy side of regular velcro...IMHO it hold every bit as well... FWIW, Velcro makes both products and the omni tape is 3-3.5 time the cost or regular Velcro so they and their customers think it is worthy of it premium cost.... The same ratios are true for such things as "free magic" or brand x OT and brand x hook and loop tape
Some other points to consider...
OT does not load up with lint,leaves, pine needles, etc like the hook side of regular Velcro... Thus it does not require the occasional wire brush clean outs that regular velcro requires.
It does not tear up its own attachment stitching like regular velcro will do on occasion.
Sock grabbing is basically a non issue when the foot box is formed as the omni tape is stuck on itself and not exposed to the user... in all UQ use modes you never come in contact with the OT.
The seal is quite complete with omni tape, where snaps and bra hooks can have gaps in use if adequate numbers of them are not used.
Omni tape is not prone to field failures like broken zippers or smashed snaps.
In thousands of quilts, we have never had a warranty issue with omni tape...nor a customer return for repare of omni tape.
On the down side.
Yes it can be noisy in opening.
You should take a minute to close it on itself before packing , storing, or washing.
All in all, a very field friendly product IMHO.
This answer is not to disparage the use of snaps, bra hooks or zippers They all work. It merely an answer the post above on the security and characteristics of Omni Tape.
Pan
Ounces to Grams.
www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413
When I made my quilt, I could not find "omni tape". Rather, I found it as "no snag velcro". Same stuff...retailers just cataloged it differently.
I made my quilts (I did make two) a number of years ago. I love them.
Those quilts look nice. Now that you've had them for a while, is there anything that you would have done differently?
Hmm.. does Omni tape snag no-see-um?
I'm about to pull the trigger on this, and I'm a little nervous so before I start. I have some questions. Likes look this might be the place for answers.
1. Why not vertical (length wise) baffles ? OK for UQ's why not TQ's?
2. Same goes with differential cut needed for UQ's why not TQ's?
3. Wings? helpful for tucking or just wasted weight?
4. I'm 5'9" size 11 shoe. Should I add inches or stay consistent.
vertical baffles are fine, but you'll find that many mesh baffle materials only come in 60" length.. so you would have to buy many yards to get the length you want, but not have a use for the excess..
no differential cut needed so far as the top quilt is wide enough to drape over you without needing to pull it super tight.. the need to keep an UQ close and sometimes snug is why differential is preferred.
wings can work. although, when i use my UQ it forms "wings" of extra coverage along the sides that the TQ does not require. think of overlapping down of the 2-part system, you dont want a UQ and TQ to "just" meet at an equatorial boundary, you'll want them to overlap. wings, in this case, are redundant.
make the bottom about 45" wide, if you are concerned with your shoe size. 52" at head and 80" long with 12oz down will do a sub 32 degree TQ.
also, I only used the clear tape method to mark my mesh once, since then I use a 2.25" baseboard found in hardware store. It is straight edge and can also be used to mark your baffle lines, your outer fabric boundaries, and make perfect 2.25" mesh baffles (which will result in an average of 1.75" mesh after sewing to fabric)
mike
Thanks for the info. I hope to start this week.
Te-wa,
I have been toying through my DIY projects in my head and I have often wondered why most people use 1.1 rather than m90 or m55. I am sure, and I totally understand, the price has a good bit to do with that but I was just wondering what you think about using either of the momentums after working with them so much and also if they are pretty user friendly.
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