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  1. #1
    Senior Member JPsax's Avatar
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    Top Quilt first time!! : Pre game talk

    Edited new dimensions :


    OH BOY so I have decided to jump into making a quilt after making my first DIY hammock and sacks and tarp skins.

    this is the run down!
    making a top quilt
    itll be 56" wide at head 46" wide at feet

    72 inches long

    itll have 12, 1-1/4" baffles- 6 inches apart

    filled with 6oz of Thru Hikers goose fluff

    1.1 exterior 1.5 interior R.S.nylon

    it will have a sewn footbox with a cinched end so I can make somewhat of a peapod or vent if its too hot.

    supplies are going to be a mix of DIY gear supply (scott, if your reading this, your stuff rocks) and Thru Hiker.

    The whole thing will be picture heavy and Ill probably follow Te-was plan for this.
    If theres anything I should know please do tell

    WISH ME LUCK GUYS this will probably get crazy.
    Last edited by JPsax; 01-06-2012 at 23:08.
    Every time I hang in a tree I get a coconut to the head.....stupid coconuts

  2. #2
    Member philthy's Avatar
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    any reason why you are choosing 1.5 ripstop for the interior? I think 1.1 feels a lot nicer, particularly if it is coming in contact with your body, not to mention the weight savings.

    I just finished making my first down top quilt and have got to say its an incredibly satisfying project. best of luck!

  3. #3
    MAD777's Avatar
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    Hi JPsax, you may want to consider 1" high baffles. The reason I say this is that your 6 oz of 900 FP down will give you a loft of 1.6" for your 72"x(48"/45") quilt. The reason for having baffles is to control the shifting of down. The baffles should put a bit of constriction on the down. Unless you want to be able to shake the quilt to move the down inside, I would make 1" high baffles. Especially since your baffles are 6" apart, which is the maximum I would consider for such a thin quilt. I favor really small baffles and my quilt of that thickness has a 4" spacing. Bit, I realize that most people don't have the patience to sew that many baffles.

    You will enjoy making this quilt and will sleep under it with pride!
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  4. #4
    Senior Member Detail Man's Avatar
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    Here's some food for thought based on my experiences with making TQs.

    The top width looks like it might be too narrow. Not sure what size person you are so it may work. The last TQ I just finished was a finished 52" at the top edge and I found it to be a little snug compared to the 56" on my Hammockgear Burrow, and I'm a skinny guy. I thought my Burrow was a bit roomy, so I was trying to shave off a little, but I ended up making my wife a very fine TQ instead of me a one.

    Having a 10" difference top to bottom (5" taper each side) worked very well for me. TQ length with cinched footbox = your height + 4". This works well for me. It gives enough length to cinch the bottom without puling it off your shoulders, and gives a little room to stuff clothes insde your quilt at night to keep them warm.

    I'm not sure I understand having a sewn and cinched footbox. Putting snaps on is really easy and would give you all the flexibility you could need.

    1.1 nylon inside and out should be fine. Don't see any reason to use a heavier fabric.

    Make sure you get the calendared fabric from Scott. He's got both kinds in some of the drop down menus. He's great to work with.

    I second the 1" baffles. 6 oz with 1.5" baffles won't be overstuffed. I put 5oz in a sewn thru TQ and get 1.5" of loft. 7oz with 1" baffles should give you about 2" of loft.

    One thing I learned the hard way is that when the quilt lofts between baffles, the length of the quilt gets shorter. Just plan for this and cut your fabric long enough.

    Also on the width, make sure that on the outer shell to add in 2x the height of the baffles.

    Hope this helps.

    DM

  5. #5
    Senior Member JPsax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Hi JPsax, you may want to consider 1" high baffles. The reason I say this is that your 6 oz of 900 FP down will give you a loft of 1.6" for your 72"x(48"/45") quilt. The reason for having baffles is to control the shifting of down. The baffles should put a bit of constriction on the down. Unless you want to be able to shake the quilt to move the down inside, I would make 1" high baffles. Especially since your baffles are 6" apart, which is the maximum I would consider for such a thin quilt. I favor really small baffles and my quilt of that thickness has a 4" spacing. Bit, I realize that most people don't have the patience to sew that many baffles.

    You will enjoy making this quilt and will sleep under it with pride!
    hmmm ill definitely go to 1" baffles then. Im not planning on taking this thing out of Florida, or even Miami for that matter so this should be enough for me. on my next TQ and down quilt Ill be using more loft and more baffles. Ill probably repurpose the down from this TQ too to cut back on costs.

    im sure ill feel more accomplished after this little project haha

    Quote Originally Posted by Detail Man View Post
    Here's some food for thought based on my experiences with making TQs.

    The top width looks like it might be too narrow. Not sure what size person you are so it may work. The last TQ I just finished was a finished 52" at the top edge and I found it to be a little snug compared to the 56" on my Hammockgear Burrow, and I'm a skinny guy. I thought my Burrow was a bit roomy, so I was trying to shave off a little, but I ended up making my wife a very fine TQ instead of me a one.

    Having a 10" difference top to bottom (5" taper each side) worked very well for me. TQ length with cinched footbox = your height + 4". This works well for me. It gives enough length to cinch the bottom without puling it off your shoulders, and gives a little room to stuff clothes insde your quilt at night to keep them warm.

    I'm not sure I understand having a sewn and cinched footbox. Putting snaps on is really easy and would give you all the flexibility you could need.

    1.1 nylon inside and out should be fine. Don't see any reason to use a heavier fabric.

    Make sure you get the calendared fabric from Scott. He's got both kinds in some of the drop down menus. He's great to work with.

    I second the 1" baffles. 6 oz with 1.5" baffles won't be overstuffed. I put 5oz in a sewn thru TQ and get 1.5" of loft. 7oz with 1" baffles should give you about 2" of loft.

    One thing I learned the hard way is that when the quilt lofts between baffles, the length of the quilt gets shorter. Just plan for this and cut your fabric long enough.

    Also on the width, make sure that on the outer shell to add in 2x the height of the baffles.

    Hope this helps.

    DM
    well Im a tiny guy really im only 5'9" and pretty thin so maybe the 48" will work but since your saying it will shrink I can go to the larger 56" size

    I went with 1.5 as the interior because I like how it feels over the 1.1. ive used both and the 1.5 just seemed like the right feel for me, both are calendared.

    how exactly do you add snap buttons to fabric?

    thanks both for your insight! im going to adjust my plans as such with both of your advice. Im definitely going to re adjust my sizes so im looking at 56" top 46" bottom 72" long with a snapped footbox and 12 1 inch baffles 6 inches apart. sound right?
    Every time I hang in a tree I get a coconut to the head.....stupid coconuts

  6. #6
    Senior Member Detail Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPsax View Post
    well Im a tiny guy really im only 5'9" and pretty thin so maybe the 48" will work but since your saying it will shrink I can go to the larger 56" size

    I went with 1.5 as the interior because I like how it feels over the 1.1. ive used both and the 1.5 just seemed like the right feel for me, both are calendared.

    how exactly do you add snap buttons to fabric?

    thanks both for your insight! im going to adjust my plans as such with both of your advice. Im definitely going to re adjust my sizes so im looking at 56" top 46" bottom 72" long with a snapped footbox and 12 1 inch baffles 6 inches apart. sound right?
    It won't lose size in width, just a little bit in length, perpendicular to the baffles.

    Adding snaps is a snap! Get a snap kit from someplace like Joann's Fabrics. It'll have some snaps and the tool to crimp them together on the fabric, according to the instructions. Four snaps on 6" centers from the foot end is plenty. Some folks like an additional one one the head end to keep the quilt tucked under your shoulders.

    You shouldn't need to hack this quilt to make your next one. If your staying in S FL a sewn thru quilt should be plenty warm for most of the year, but YMMV. Your quilt should turn out fine since your doing your homework first. Good luck with it!

  7. #7
    Senior Member JPsax's Avatar
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    Are there any other spots I could look to for direction on a Sewn Threw TQ?
    Every time I hang in a tree I get a coconut to the head.....stupid coconuts

  8. #8
    Senior Member Detail Man's Avatar
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    Sewn thru TQ Instructions

    I can't remember anyone doing a tutorial on a sewn thru TQ. It was pretty easy to do since there were no baffles to cut and sew.

    Here's the basic steps. I took some pics, but haven't gotten any yet of the finished quilt. If you're patient I can get some posted later this weekend.


    DIY Sewn Thru TQ Instructions
    1. Cut the inner and outer pieces the same size. If you double your fabric and use a hot knife, the edges stay together while sewing the chambers.

    2. Sew across the quilt to form the chambers every 4" on center. A hem guide can be helpful to keep the seams parallel. Start the first one at 4" + seam allowance for the draw cord channel. If you do your math well, you'll end up with evenly spaced chambers for the length of the quilt.

    3. Make the button holes for draw cords in head and foot ends. Add you draw cord, fold over and sew channel.

    4. Roll hem ONE side. Leave the other open for filling.

    5. Stuff in the down.

    6. Roll hem the other side.

    7. Add snaps.

    8. Fluff in the dryer to distribute the down. NO HEAT.

    9. Enjoy!

  9. #9
    MAD777's Avatar
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    In my personal experience, a sewn thru quilt is much harder to make than a baffled one. The problem stems from the fact that you cannot see the underlying material with sewn thru process. With the baffles being nettin, you. An see the marked lines through the netting and keep on course easier. I'll never make another sewn thru quilt.

    As to width, as long as you are not going to ground, you will be fine. Actually, more than fine. I make my quilts with a finished width of 40" throughout and I am 6'-1" and weigh 200#.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  10. #10
    Senior Member Dblcorona's Avatar
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    This is one of the best instructions I have found for a sewn thru quilt.

    http://www.lytw8.com/My_Gear.html#LytW8_Summer_Quilt
    "We don't stop hiking because we grow old,
    we grow old because we stop hiking."

    -- Finis Mitchell,

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