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  1. #1
    Senior Member Frost's Avatar
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    Baffle Material for a down UQ.

    To start, I don't know exactly the term for the style of baffles I'm planning on making. This image is a close approximation. Just without the side baffles.

    I'm planning on starting my down UQ tomorrow, but I'm on the fence about a few specifics regarding the baffles.

    I found some really light weight sort of mesh (Noseeum type stuff, only a little stiffer material) that I'm considering using. It is a tight enough weave that it didn't allow any down to pass through it when placed on the end of the hose on a pretty strong vacuum cleaner. I don't know that I'd call it 'down proof', but it isn't too far from it.

    Is it critical that the baffle material be down proof? I can't see any reason in my head that it should be, but I'm also a noob.

    Second question. With this style quilt, is it imperative that each bafflee be completely enclosed, or can the baffle material be left with a little gap between the edges of the external material and the baffle material (basically linking all the baffles together with gaps along the edges)? I've seen this sort of design in older down quilts and sleeping bags, but I can't decide if the down would be really likely to migrate significantly over time.

    It won't really be a problem if I need to stitch it all up neatly and eliminate the gaps, it's just something I need to plan on from the start obviously.

    Obviously, I'm baffled by baffles.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Catavarie's Avatar
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    From my experience you will most likely be fine with the material it doesn't have to be neccessarily down proof so long as it is down resistant. You should also be fine with leaving a gap at the ends of the baffles, think of a karo step quilt it is basically just one big open bag with sections of baffling placed inside. Baffles are to help prevent the down from gathering all in one place so long as your baffles present enough resistance to gravities effects you should be fine.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member GrayDog's Avatar
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    baf·fle (bfl)
    tr.v. baf·fled, baf·fling, baf·fles
    1. To frustrate or check (a person) as by confusing or perplexing; stymie.
    2. To impede the force or movement of.
    n.
    1. A usually static device that regulates the flow of a fluid or light.
    2. A partition that prevents interference between sound waves in a loudspeaker.
    http://www.thefreedictionary.com/baffle

    By definition (#2), the purpose of the baffle is to impede or restrict not stop the movement of down. In fact, one of the advantages of not sealing each chamber is that you can adjust more down into areas that need it, i.e. shoulders, butt, and away from those that don't.

    A lot of UQ's are just horizontal rows of "tubes" that serve to slow the down from gravitating towards the bottom of the quilt while enabling the user to shift it easily to cold spots.

    Hope this helps.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member lukesteg's Avatar
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    Agreed, baffle material doesn't need to be necessarly down proof just as long as it stops
    most of the down from passing chamber to chamber. Some people even use cuben or ripstop as baffle material. Just dont use tulle.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Frost's Avatar
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    lukesteg, why not tulle? Not strong enough?

    This stuff I've got is like a really really fine mesh tulle sort of stuff. Much stronger and harder to rip though. With all the tulle I've tried, I can just push a finger right through it. This stuff, I couldn't even with all my effort.

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  6. #6
    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    lukesteg, why not tulle? Not strong enough?
    Exactly. Tulle will fail over time, especially after outdoor exposure (uv breakdown). Stick with a lightweight mesh (like noseeum). It offers the best characteristics and weight for allowing the down to breathe and easy compactibility.
    If you do go with a cuben you need to allow air in and out of the quilt, somehow.

    Your baffle design looks good. I see filling each chamber troublesome and may not offer much reward in terms of warmth.

    YMMV.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    I think Gargoyle's right about the difficulty filling the center chambers. You only need to control the down next to your left shoulder and right leg if you lie on the diagonal, so you could eliminate separate baffled chambers for the opposite diagonals.

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