As many have issues just cutting ripstop (scissors need to be extremely sharp), I just use woodburning pen to cut, on top of a piece of masonite on the work table, seals edges and cuts clean thru.
As many have issues just cutting ripstop (scissors need to be extremely sharp), I just use woodburning pen to cut, on top of a piece of masonite on the work table, seals edges and cuts clean thru.
.... the Aardvark (earth pig)... a rather unremarkable creature whose sole claim to fame is that it is the first animal listed in the dictionary.
Rob
Don't go out and buy them. A good pair can run you >$75. A cheap pair is worse than useless. However... if you happen to have them lying around go ahead and use them. They've been pretty much made obsolete by the more modern tools of zig zag stitching and sergers. They still have a legitimate use but not so much for gear making. And they are wicked expensive to have sharpened. Plus they are not something you want to tackle at home unless you have major honing skills on sawblades and chain saw teeth. Not a DIY honing item IMO.Originally Posted by JohnSawyer
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
I use a small candle to sear the edges of nylon, I work from the side. I cut then sear, then cut the next side & sear.
I am going to start a new project, I have a nasty little quilting iron, it comes with a few tips, it looks a lot like a woodburning wand, with little pointed or flat heads. I call it nasty because I have burnt the heck out of my fingers using the device when quilting. I do think it will seal the edges of nylon. I always use some sort of additional finish on nylon seams. Just searing them is not enough for what I do to them in actual use.
My experience with nylon runs to making down coats, gaiters, throw blankets, that type of stuff, not hammocks or UQ...
so, if I have a two layered piece of gear (making a bridgeskin without the bridge- aka a gearskin pack) and turn it inside out so that the seam is inside the piece of gear, I shouldn't need to seal the edges- or is it going to unravel anyway and break past the stitches?
Thanks!
my hammock gear weights total: 2430g (~86oz)
Winter: total 2521 (~89oz)
(see my profile for detailed weights)
gram counter, not gram weenie!
run a line of top stitching around the perimeter if you want to be sure. That should stablize every thing so it won't ravel. Of course if you use a constrating color you add a bit of bling at the same time.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
We Don't Sew... We Make Gear! video series
Important thread injector guidelines especially for Newbies
Bobbin Tension - A Personal Viewpoint
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