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  1. #11

    Join Date
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    mrstop and I found out today that we know each other and hope to get together this weekend so he can try out my HG Burrow.

    This should give him some good data to add to this thread.

  2. #12
    LuvmyBonnet's Avatar
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    Sep 2014
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    No more info. Bummer. I'm starting research on TQ's. Choices, Choices and more choices.

  3. #13
    New Member
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    Nov 2011
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    Cincinnati, OH
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    DIY 1.1 dbl layer - Thanks gmcttr!
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    My "formula"

    Thanks for bumping the thread. Below is a write up on how I designed my quilt size. I don't know if it is quite definitive, but it ended up being a good size for me.

    MRSTOP's GUIDE TO FIGURE OUT TOP QUILT SIZE
    For my quilt, I wanted the quilt sized to cinch around my neck and provide adequate room to move around and to sleep on my side. I also added in a bit of room on the sides should I go from hammock to ground. The quilt should not pull tight at any point as this can induce a cold spot. It's a fine line as I also want to minimize the amount of material to reduce weight.

    I am going to use my body size as an example, but I am hoping that out of this comes a reference for future newbie hangers like myself.

    My specs:
    Height: 6' 0" (72"); 63" to chin
    Weight: 175 lbs
    Body type: Slim / Athletic build
    Chest and arms: All around- 50"; On back - 33"; On side - 39"
    Shoe size: 11.5"
    Sleep Style: Side and some back; Occasionally change positions through the night, but not a thrasher

    How to determine:
    1. Quilt Length
      In looking at manufacturers, there seems to be two schools of camp here: Short and Long. For my 6 height, the short camp (Hammock Gear, MLD, Tee Wa) would size the quilt at about 74. The long camp (Enlightened Equipment, Jacks R Better) would put my quilt length between 78 and 84. I have read some rules of thumb where you add 6-8" to your height to get the length if you are using cinched footbox. Also, a rounder body shape can take some inches off. Because I am using a cinched footbox, I used the long camp (78"). If you are going with a sewn footbox, you could probably get away with a slightly shorter quilt.

    2. Quilt Top Width
      For the top width I have read that the dimensions depend on whether you are a back or slide sleeper, how much "wiggle" room you need, and whether you plan on going to the ground. There have been some other rules I read based on total chest size and coat size, but the below rules makes the most sense to me.

      • Back sleepers: Lay flat on the floor and have someone take a measurement from the floor by one shoulder, across your chest to the floor on the other shoulder. Also measure at the elbows and at your wrists down by your sides. Add several inches to drape your body and prevent drafts.
      • Side sleepers: Lie on your side, one shoulder on the ground, the other up. For minimum width you definitely want the edges touching the ground. Add another 6 to 12 inches for "wiggle room". Thrashers may need to add room

      I used the side sleeper rule which would give me a top width of 50".

    3. Quilt Bottom Width (foot box)
      The bottom width is driven by foot size and that you want the bottom of the quilt to wrap around your feet comfortably when cinched or sewn.

      • For a cinched foot box, I think it makes sense to calculate the width based on the circumference of a circle that uses your foot length as the diameter. We can use the formula C = 2πr = πd, or use an online calculator. Based on my foot size of 11.5", I need a minimum bottom width of roughly 36.25".
      • For a sewn rectangular box, I am guessing that you would make the height of the rectangle the length of your foot plus some for wiggle. The length of the would probably be based on how far your feet spread when laying plus some room for wiggle. To get the width of the quilt bottom that would be sewn to the box, you would simply add the lengths of all four sides of the rectangle.

      I used a 40" bottom width for my quilt.

    4. Taper
      It seems some quilts are full taper, others are half taper while others are 2/3 tapered. If you are very slim and/or not much of a mover, you can probably try more of a taper. I used a half taper as that seems to be about standard.

    You should test the size and design before you order and start cutting fabric. Unfortunately, we can't just go to the store and try a quilt out (hence our original problem). The best advice I have read is to mock up a quilt using a bed sheet folded to the dimensions and layout figured out above. The folds can be secured with safety pins or binder clips. Experiment until you find dimensions that provide enough wiggle room for your needs.

    Since this was my first quilt ever, I was a little generous on the sizes. I figured if it ends up being too big, I can resize it smaller later. However, it has worked out well so far. My final design specs:

    Length: 78
    Width
    - Top (neck): 42
    - Shoulder (6" from top): 50
    - Bottom (foot box): 40

  4. #14
    _jstevens2010_'s Avatar
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    Dec 2013
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    My advice is simple. I'm 6 feet tall and I got the 78" TQ. think of it as a blanket on your bed. You want extra length on the occasion that you pull the blanket up and over your head when you want to. Same with a TQ.

  5. #15
    New Member
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    Mar 2015
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    Great thread. I'm getting ready to make my 1st TQ and this good food for thought.

  6. #16
    Scotty Von Porkchop's Avatar
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    Definitive doesn't really apply to preference, but going within the norm should normally prove sufficient for a comfortable set-up. I know my quilts are longer in the winter and longer still if they will be needed in huts or hostels as I'm a front sleeper where additional inches are needed. Still it could be worse: you could be sleeping on the ground with only long and short options for your mass produced mummy bag.

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