# Thread: Single Line Suspension (SLS)

1. Welcome aboard jersey. I've been here over 2 years and still feel like a newbie at times. The buried loop was something I thought was new until it was pointed out that it was just a UCR. Working with some aging mental capacity here but visualizing the loop with constrictor around the SLS sounds great. My loops are fixed since I use the same hammock and don't need to adjust. I have found on my present hang, every night for 1 1/2 months, that the only 2 trees close to the RV are at my maximum span with the SLS and short of a step ladder I can't get the huggers high enough up the tree to keep my butt off the ground unless I sacrifice sag. My only option is to remove the buried loops and reposition to affect the sag. With your loops around the SLS adjustment would be simple. Thankfully my system is in constant flux and subject to be altered at any time. Will be looking at incorporating some of your idea.

Thanks for joining in with your ideas. This is what keeps the forum alive and growing.

2. ## forces?!?!?

I'm new here and happen to be a rock climber from years past. I'm intruiged by the simplicity of these setups but worry about the forces involved. Anybody care to straighten me out on this? The following video is for reference.

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

I'm new here and happen to be a rock climber from years past. I'm intruiged by the simplicity of these setups but worry about the forces involved. Anybody care to straighten me out on this? The following video is for reference.

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

I don't know what algorithm was used to create this calculator but it cannot account for the differences in angles created by the structural ridge line nor the distribution of loads through the multiple points of the hammock itself, which contains curves: http://theultimatehang.com/hammock-hang-calculator/ It is probably a simple three-point vector description as you demonstrated in the video and would thus be conservative, which is good.

It's a certainty, though, that in hanging a hammock the forces are multiplied at angles shallower than about 30* -- one can feel the structural ridge line begin to tighten at that point, which means it is taking up load or "working" in terms of physics. So, a SLS forsakes fiddling with angles, assumes the line will bear the whole load, and overcomes forces by the brute strength of the line.

The distance between trees, their size, and placement are the greatest variables in the woods; so, suspension is the greatest challenge, especially if one is trying to achieve an UL pack weight.

In another thread fallkniven spoke of using prussics for a gear hammock.

This has caused me to re-think the SLS ... once again!

.

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

great video dude. thanks for sharing
makes sense

5. Hello all. I've been checking out HF for a long time and have synthesized many of others' methods and suggestions into my own SLS. The system I use borrows heavily from HC4U and from BearChaser:
1. Old seat belt tree hugger with marlinespike toggle at one end.
2. 7/64 Amsteel spliced loop over marlinespike.
3. Old seat belt tree hugger with marlinespike using a carabiner as a toggle at the other end.
4. Suspension line looped back and forth a few times through carabiner and steel ring clove hitched to suspension; tied off with series of slippery half hitches.
5. Two toggles marlinespiked a set distance apart acting as "stopper" knots.
6. End channels of ENO DN gathered with long soft shackles; soft shackled directly to suspension line at marlinespike "stoppers."
7. Tarp (DIY Tyvek) usually stays attached to suspension with prussiked shock cord.

A few questions for the community:
1. Is there a better knot for the steel ring than a clove hitch? I've tried the several-turns-around-the-ring method, but it still slides when tightening the suspension. And the clove hitch is not as easily adjustable for distance between trees as my inherent laziness dictates.

2. How tight should the suspension line be before hanging the hammock? I know Amsteel is strong, but it still gives me pause when I can "twang" the ridgeline above my head like a guitar string. But with less tension, there seems to be a big difference between the unloaded and loaded height above ground.

3. Can anyone suggest a different method of hanging the hammock that might be more easily adjusted? I tried prusiks but they slip on the Amsteel (and one spot looks almost melted as a result). The toggled marlinespikes work well, but require that I first hang the suspension loosely, adjust and set the toggles, then tighten everything up, load the hammock, and retighten.

I've only been hammocking a short time so I don't consider my self well-hung , but I've been studying the posts like it was for a dissertation. It's actually nice to post, instead of simply consuming.

6. Originally Posted by Catavarie
So I just had a random thought about the SLS. Would it be possible to use a softshackle or a prussik to attach the hammock to the SLS, thereby doing away with the rings and their associated weight?

Assuming of course that you use cordage rated to handle the weight.

I'm sure this is probably a bad idea, just hoping someone smarter than me can tell me why.
I don't know if it's a bad idea and never thought to ask. I'm new to this too and do use that method (at least until someone tells me I'm courting death to do so). I bought 60' of 7/64 Amsteel from ebay and used 30' for my suspension. The rest I've been playing with splicing. I made two 10" soft shackles and used them to replace the end-channel ropes (is that the right terminology?) in my ENO doublenest. I tied a couple of marlinespikes in the suspension to act as stoppers and soft-shackled directly to the suspension. Seemed to work in my yard...

7. I've been using soft shackles for over a year with no problems. Two are used to attach the tree huggers back on itself and two are used to attach the hammock ends to the hammock suspensions. Here is the link to my version of a UCR/SLS. https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...nother-UCR-SLS At this point the only hardware I use are the four stakes.

8. Noob here with question about this SLS stuff. I think I want to do this because I want a structural ridgeline, but as a new hanger I don't know how long I want it. Why I am posting is I notice this thread has not had traffic in about a year, although it has been active since 2008. It seems most folks like attaching their ridgeline directly to the hammock then hanging the hammock with separate end systems and I am wondering why this is. It seems like a lot of extra work compared to this elegantly simple system. Starts at 4:10 in this video by Grizz.

I have the Amsteel and tree straps all I need to do this are two descender rings. I like the concept very much, but before ordering the rings I want to know if this is still in use by some of you folks with good results.

I also have a couple questions about the ridgeline length and sag. I am guessing with this system I'd have to add 8-12 inches to the ridgeline length as opposed to a ridgeline that is tied directly into the hammock because of the extra length introduced by the short line and ring?? Is this correct?

And what happens as sag is increased or decreased? I have read that too tight keeps you in the middle and you get the banana effect with shoulder squeeze. As sag increases, you can lay more diagonally and get a flatter lie, but is there a limit to that? I understand 83% of hammock length is a good start.

I have a Grand Trunk Double which is 126" long with a sewn channel. I will put 8" continuous loops in it with the descender rings, and if that adds, say, 6" per side, I want to start with about 114" between the wraps on the descender rings? Am I thinking that through correctly? I'll measure the line plus ring and if it's 4" or something else, I'll adjust accordingly, but I want to use the 83% rule with the length from ring-to-ring in this setup?

Thanks! You folks all are very good at making this stuff simple for us noobs.

9. JC, welcome! This past camping season, I made a change to my system and am very happy with the results. I have poly straps with loops sewn into the ends. I just wrap, thread one end through the loop and attach a biner via a marlinespike. This way I can minimize the length of the webbing.

To that, I clip my Amsteel line, run it across to the other tree, and tighten by passing through the biner marlinespiked to the other strap, back through a descender, then back through the biner again. This makes a nice easy pulley system to adjust tightness. Tarp, hammock (ENOUGH Double), and DIY bugnet are already attached to te line. My hammock is soft-shackled to the suspension line through a length of UCR at each end.

What this allows me to do is adjust the position and sag of the hammock when the line is already tight. My thoughts on ridgeline length are that a couple inches of variance will not likely make that much difference. I just eyeball it to 30 degrees each time.

This system also allows me to hang asymmetrically between trees, closer to one than the other, if necessary without having to raise the far strap much higher.

I'll post pics when I can. I'm a huge fan of the SLS so far. With this all-in-one system, I can go from hiking in the rain to lying under a tarp is around 3 minutes.

10. OK...I've read and re-read, and revisited this subject from time to time over the years. I can't figure out if what I am proposing has already been proposed and discarded. What I envision is a length of Amsteel attached to trees at either end by your attachment of choice. Already connected to the Amsteel is two 12" lengths of "sheathing" Amsteel at either end with locked brummels at either end of each sheath. Attach the hammock to a brummels with a soft shackle, adjust the brummel by sliding the sheath along the suspension line, and you're done. Please let me know what you think...

SLS.jpg