Anyone use like a down vest or jacket to bring a 40 degree quilt lower. Thinking of a 3 season yeti with GG nightlite pad for feet and a 40 degree HG burrow. I usually sleep in my down vest and possum down socks and hat.
Anyone use like a down vest or jacket to bring a 40 degree quilt lower. Thinking of a 3 season yeti with GG nightlite pad for feet and a 40 degree HG burrow. I usually sleep in my down vest and possum down socks and hat.
Ground=Cold+Hard+Wet
Solution!!!! Sleep in a TREE
vest and jrb sleeve sleeper to extend lighter quilts for me... seems to work.
"Jeff-Becking"
DOWNTOWN BROWN!!!!
For sure, it is done all the time! In my case, 1st using a PeaPod. Rated by Speer at 20F bottom and 50(for way cold sleeper Ed Speer) on top, due to the gap on top caused by wider hammocks. Just by using the UL Polarguard jacket, pants and a down vest I had with me for camp/hiking where, I have been OK into the 20s.
2nd, using this same clothing but under the 21 oz Golite 20 TQ ( most folks seemed to think it was more like a 25-30F TQ), I was OK at ~ 10F.
I'm sure there are many other examples. Layering!
Sounds like this is the best route then. I don't think I ever get below 20 on a normal basis and I always have my black rock down vest, my possum gloves, beanie and socks. Nice way to shave almos 11 oz off my weight!
Ground=Cold+Hard+Wet
Solution!!!! Sleep in a TREE
I have used a 35 degree WM Highlight and Montbell Ex. Light Down Jacket down to about 20 degrees. Along with Patagonia Capaline 2 tights and possom down socks/beanie.
it can be done BUT ... it depends a lot on the person if they are hot or cold sleeper and the jacket and the wind .. too many variables for my taste ...
if you know your going to be in weather that your gear is NOT rated for
...don't ... i would get a 3 season TQ this way your covered and if it gets colder then you thought you can use your jacket to get a little more out of the quilts
but relying on a 40F quilt to keep you warm on a 18F night with wind is not smart .. JMO
look at it this way it's better to vent if your too warm then to shiver all night long
you talked about needing this for a Thru hike ask yourself this at the end of a 16-20 mile day do you want to be playing around trying to get warm or climb into you hammock and be warm
It puts the Underquilt on it's hammock ... It does this whenever it gets cold
A comfortable heavy wool cable knit sweater. Not for nothing does the "clo" rating exist, as in how warm compared to a suit of clothes.
I personally have no trouble sleeping in a wool sweater over another thin layer, and I'll grant that from other experience I have "faith" in wool. It works for me. I'm recording temps of 20F and finding a 40F HG "Burrow" top quilt just adequate if it is tightly wrapped and tucked around body and shoulders and if the 20F UQ is working right.
But, make no mistake, at 20F I am reminded by any leaks of the draft-stopping baffles SB makers include to keep warm air in and cold air out. The colder it is, the more you want drafts to be stopped. Top quilts are as yet entirely unsophisticated on this point. So, if you were wearing a puffy down jacket, a quilt would seal better against that rounded surface than it would around your collar bone and shoulders. Bingo!!There's another part of why the heavy sweater works so well for me even 15F below the rating of the TQ: there's a better seal.
Last edited by DemostiX; 02-17-2012 at 20:52.
GLP makes good sense, sure you can flirt with the temp range of your sleep system but wind is the real game changer. Your instincts are good for upgrading your UQ, also consider weather sheild if you're using a minimal tarp.
GLP mentioned that you plan to thru hike, it's a tough enough propostion even when everything is right, don't jeprodize your body's recovery time at night for a few ounces of insulation.
David
+1 on what GLP said, with this to add to it--- Stormcrow (Adam) can do custom work, he is getting in 7D, or you can drop ship it (or any other fabric) to him which by using the lighter weight materials you will lighten the overall weight of the quilt!
FWIW 7D has a weight of .64oz/sq yd, Momentum 50 is .69 oz/sq yd, Momentum 0.9 (or Momentum 90) Base Weight: 0.9 oz/yd2. Finished Weight:1.1 oz/sq yd (some have this listed as 1.05oz/sq yd)
There are many varieties of 1.1 ripstop out there. The effectiveness of their DWR coatings likely varies. Per AYCE (from thruhiker.com), the finished weight of [thru-hiker’s] 1.1 ripstop is 1.3 +/- 0.1 oz/yd^2. (For comparison, I recall waterproof silnylon weights quoted as 1.35, 1.4, 1.5 oz/yd^2, again likely reflecting the variety of material available in the market.) so basically it varries from 1.1-1.6oz/sq yd!
So what does all this mean, well if you wanted to get the best performing and lightest weight quilt, you have a couple choices to make!
There are two other cottage makers (other than Stormcrow) (which were listed in the other threads that you made) whom can also make what you desire, one being Tim Marshall of Enlightened Eq, and the other is Joe at Z-Packs! Now these two are making quilts with the utilization of cuben in the materials/making of their quilts/bags!
Again this is JMO, if others see it different then do the research and post your results for all to see!
"yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift---thats why its called a present" - Master Oogway
It's always best if your an early riser!
Hard to say if ONLY a vest, gloves, beanie and socks would push an accurately rated 40F QUILT to 20 or not. Of course that Burrow is probably good for at least 40 for most of us, but people do vary a whole lot! Plus some folks have a big learning curve with quilts compared to being sealed into a bag. Drafts being the problem.
On the plus side, many folks seem to get by to lower temps than a quilt is rated for if they have more than enough warmth on the bottom. Bottom insulation seems to get more bang for the buck.
But having excess bottom insulation does not always overcome inadequate top warmth or inadequate head insulation. I was on an HF group hang in the Sipsey Wilderness in Feb. I was using a JRB BMBH with a JRB MW4 under, rated for zero to 5F. With the same clothing and TQ mentioned in above post I had used before to barely get by at 10F, except I might have had my Marmot hood, not sure. Anyway, when I switched to a warmer bag on top I went from barely getting by to toasty warm at 10, so the UQ is plenty warm to at least 10. So on this Sipsey trip it was snowing and in the high 20s. I had the Golite TQ and the hood of my PG jacket and maybe a fleece hat also- not sure. Woke up in the middle of the night to take a leak and realized I was a little cool. Certainly not shivering, but not as warm as I would have liked, and surprised not to be more than warm enough.
After all, my UQ was rated to zero, and my TQ was rated to the 20s- plus my puffy clothing- and it was only high 20s! But, I must consider the possibility that I had moved in my sleep and opened up a draft somewhere on my TQ. Though I was not aware of having done so. Anyway, I remembered I had my Marmot hood with me, added that and was toasty warm the rest of the night.
Point? Don't forget some very good thick insulation for your head/neck area, especially if not inside a hooded sleeping bag! And especially if pushing 40F quilts way beyond their rating.
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