How much of a bury is needed for a dynaglide whoopie? And do I have to make a locked bremmel or will a double figure 8 work for the closed end. Oh, I'm about 180lbs.
How much of a bury is needed for a dynaglide whoopie? And do I have to make a locked bremmel or will a double figure 8 work for the closed end. Oh, I'm about 180lbs.
A figure-8 knot will derate the cording more than a splice.
Here's a table that lists the bury lengths -
cording-bury-lengths.jpg
“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
AS, are those numbers for whoopies, inches the bury should be, or does it represent something totally different?
It tells the whole story. The diameter of the lines, the number of fids (number of diameters each bury should be), and the two numbers multiplied to give the length each type of bury should be in inches.Originally Posted by Southpaw
It also lists the bury lengths for whoopies on the far right, and the bury length for eye splices (both the bury and taper) that the OP will need to make if using locked brummel eye splices.
“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
AS...Thanks for the chart. I'll make a locked bremmel for the closed end.
No, you do not have to make a locked Brummel. But, you should splice this cord rather than knot it.
The discussion here,from 2010, and including a major authority in contemporary ropes and rigging, Brion Toss, shows how little agreement there is that there is a single best way to splice and what the role of the locked Brummel is. For sure, it fixes the size of the eye when there is no load.
Per manufacturers and riggers and field experience, you must secure the splice from coming undone when there is no load also. Do that with stitching or whipping for no load, bury or weaving to take the load, and the locked Brummel for some of each.
The easiest rule of thumb for bury lengths for cords made of these and similar synthetic fibers, is 72 (or 70) times the diameter (You don't need to know what a fid is.) Which number you choose doesn't matter, as you only know the nominal, not a true diameter.
Except for minor differences due to coatings, the single braid hollow cords in the table have true diameters proportional to the square root of the true weights once they have been placed under load as they are all made of fiber of the same density. The Dynaglide has been measured to weigh about 2.4oz /100ft, not 1.6oz as shown.
The taper in the bury is not only aesthetic and for handling; it distributes the load a bit, eliminating a single severe stress riser near where the bury ends, increasing the breaking strength of the splice.
Thanks for that chart from me too. I don't think any of my whoopies are made to these specs.
Weaving looks a lot easier. Is that an option for dynaglide closed end?
Now realizing the other purposes of the taper:
Will I be in much trouble if I neglected the taper but my overall bury length is as long as the recommended overall length? Or should I make a new set.
I corrected that in the re-made table above, as well as truncating the digits to 2 decimal places.
FWIW, the table data wasn't compiled by me, I am re-sharing it from other posts. It does appear to follow the splicing recommendations by the cording manufacturers, though.
“I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy
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