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Thread: Webbing sewing

  1. #1
    Senior Member dukedante's Avatar
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    Webbing sewing

    I'm just curious how you all sew your webbing straps. I've seen this http://www.diygearsupply.com/diy_gui...-TreeStrap.jpg which calls for a whole lot of sewing. I've got some straps that have that many boxes and x's and tacks and etc. They seem like a whole lot of overkill.

    On the other end of the spectrum is a pair of straps that I have that has a single bar tack across it. This seems like way too little for my comfort.

    What all do you do? Seems like a nice middle would be a box or two with the x sewing inside both.

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    Senior Member Cannibal's Avatar
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    I just generally run 3 or 4 lines of stitching across the webbing; never had a problem. The straps I took on the AT only had one line of stitching across. They got destroyed in another manner towards the end, but that one line of stitching kept me off the ground for 5 months of nightly use. I choose to err on the side of caution and take the extra 20 seconds to slap another line of stitching on, but I doubt it is necessary.
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    4 tacks about 1/8" apart. Holds me and the kids.

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    MAD777's Avatar
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    I read an article on another backpacking forum where they tested various stitching patterns to failure and measured the force. A few different weights a fabric were tested also The conclusion was that several lines of stitches running the same direction as the straps was the strongest.

    Interestingly, bar tacks always failed first, especially on thinner fabrics. The closely spaced stitch holes cut the fabric.
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  5. #5
    sclittlefield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    I read an article on another backpacking forum where they tested various stitching patterns to failure and measured the force. A few different weights a fabric were tested also The conclusion was that several lines of stitches running the same direction as the straps was the strongest.

    Interestingly, bar tacks always failed first, especially on thinner fabrics. The closely spaced stitch holes cut the fabric.
    This might be one of the testing sheets MAD777 is referring to. That was a good read on stitching.
    stitches.png

    That DIY Gear Supply sheet you linked definitely works - I wanted to over-engineer this sort of thing where it's going to be used by a wide range of folk. I usually do what that DIYGS Illustration shows myself, but with only 3 boxed X's. It really doesn't take that long, it's done in one continuous stitching pattern (no stop, cut, start again), and the thread used won't even weigh on a gram scale. But yes - it is over-engineered.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member DemostiX's Avatar
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    I'll bet there's more variation in failure across executions due to variation in the stitch length and tension then there is due to pattern. Same as per sclittlefield, AHE doesn't cut and start over, either between bar tacks. ie. Those are long single diagonal threads you barely see here:

    http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/a...s/show/945324#[/

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    New Member fosho4's Avatar
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    I normally do 3 or 4 boxes similar to DIYGS but like you said it's probably over-kill.
    I'll gladly take the extra 30 seconds for the added peace of mind though.

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    Senior Member djminnesota's Avatar
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    i did like diygs, but only one box
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    MAD777's Avatar
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    The graph that Scott posted is the one I was remembering.
    Thanks Scott!
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  10. #10
    Redoleary's Avatar
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    I tend to use the method in the diagram under the 70% heading, also with a small box across the webbing (maybe only 2 stitches tall) on the end nearest the loop, but just a back and fourth across the webbing on the end nearest the tail
    Good luck,
    RED

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